The loyal Thailand blog reader will already know that Lung Addie is an avid biker. If you have the necessary time and want to see, hear, smell and sometimes feel a country, then it is best to do this by motorbike.
The big advantage over the bicycle is the distance you can cover. Advantage over the car: the feeling with the country. In three years I have 45.000 km on the counter of my trusty Honda Steed, these do not come from driving to the local market every week, but from crossing the country as a result.
The Province Chumphon, where I live, is a very beautiful province. Because of the heavy rain, sometimes a pity, it is a very green province. It is a prosperous region and that is reflected in the good condition of the roads, which is important for a biker. Endless roads through the palm oil and rubber plantations and especially along the coast, the Gulf of Thailand.
I'm taking you for a 150km ride north from my hometown of Pathiu. We go from Pathiu towards Ban Mat Ammarit and from there back home via rural roads. My Garmin lady will guide me nicely back to my home.
Our first stop is already after 2 km. On top of a hilltop is a high Buddha statue that overlooks the entire area. It is from the existence of this hill that the name Pathiu (also written Pathio) comes: vista. There is a small temple with murals that tell the life of Buddha.
From here the ride goes to a temple located 3 km away. Not just another temple, but a very special one. Wat Tam Kao Plu or the Monkey Cave Temple. In the limestone hillside there is a large natural cave. Originally, the cave was used by the population as a shelter against the elements and other dangers. Later this hideout was taken over by a family of macaques. A temple was built at the foot of the hill and the monks now take care of several macaque families who live there. A real playground for the monkeys and their offspring was even built.
Those who wish can take a detour through the university's faculty where specific training is provided in marine life studies. There are a few sites that also conduct genetic research to improve scampi and fish farming. A visit here is only possible if you have the necessary relations, otherwise you will not get in.
On our way along the coast to Map Amarit we arrive at Ao Pathiu; the pier and fishing village where the many fishing boats are moored during the day. In the early evening they set sail for the catch of mainly scampi and squid. At the end of the pier is a seafood restaurant but I better take you there this evening for a delicious meal with the very best the sea has to offer. In the early morning the fishermen return home with their catch, the same evening the seafood is on the table, it couldn't be fresher. We also drive past Ao Bo Mao, or Pathiu Beach with its many resorts and various eateries, but only seafood.
We arrive at a totally forgotten beach: Coral Beach, Thung Khai Nao. It is located a 10 km from Pathiu. The road to Coral Beach is a beautiful, newly built road, with a 1.5 m wide cycle path on both sides, where do you find something like this in Thailand? All this was built to promote tourism here in the vicinity of the airport.
At Coral Beach belongs a resort with complete infrastructure for receiving tourists: however, no cat that comes for lack of starting such a thing by promoting it. Apparently no one knows. It was, until about 5 years ago, a very popular beach with the Thai locals. A beautiful little bay with a really nice view. One has a view of Koh Khai, an uninhabited island with a beautiful white sand beach. Only accessible with the help of the local fishermen because of its many underwater cliffs.
The place is now avoided like the plague by the Thai population due to the fact that it is very dangerous to swim along the left side of the bay, short to the rocks. There is a cave in the rock and some want to see it while swimming. A few years ago, several people drowned in the short term, the explanation for the Thais was: sea spirits.
Ao Thung Sarng Bay Chumphon
I still go swimming regularly. Crystal clear water, nothing to be seen from industry or waste water from any city in the area. The explanation of the danger is simple: the seabed makes a big leap and suddenly drops, in a few steps, from hip height to a depth of up to 3 meters, and then it is either swim or drown. In addition, there is the very strong undercurrent, due to the rock formation to the left of the bay, which simply drags you in the wrong direction. Staying calm and not swimming towards the coast but swimming parallel to the beach and then, once the undertow has subsided, swimming calmly towards the beach, that is the only solution. The entire domain is now for sale and would be owned by Singha.
Googling on the internet: a short video on YouTube: Ao Thung Khai Noi, posted by Wanna Phatara, DSC_590, gives a beautiful picture of this place.
From here the road to follow turns inland away from the coast. No more stops for sights, only to have a snack or a drink in a local restaurant and continue to enjoy the hilly landscape, in the middle of the palm oil and rubber plantations. Along the way we are waved at by various people, children shout: hello farang… do they know me or my motorbike? Who knows? It is in any case very nice to cross the region here. Is this the real Thailand or is only the Isaan the real Thailand?
Nice, I have to visit Chumphon again.
In the early eighties I “lived” for work in the Phon Sawan Hotel, located along the beach at Paknam Chumphon. To support a seismic survey for the Gulf of Thailand, we had navigation antennae on the islands of Koh Mattra and Koh Tao (both uninhabited at the time).
The Phon Sawan Hotel (now a Novotel) was a beautiful hotel with no guests for its time. My Thai colleague and I had the hotel to ourselves, except for a single weekend when a bus of military officers' wives took a trip. The owner was a general.
On other days we had to indicate daily what we wanted to eat the next day. Although the beautiful hotel restaurant had an extensive menu, without guests nothing was in stock.
A wonderful time
A very nice inviting piece to drive, thank you.
I really appreciate Lung Addie's articles.
Firstly because I have driven a motorcycle in the Netherlands for 20 years, secondly I have been living in Bang Saphan, north of Pathiu, for 3 to 5 months (November to March).
In the Netherlands I stopped motorcycling (cold and rain), but in Thailand it is very pleasant. Nice temperatures, little to no traffic on the local roads, which have also been very well maintained in recent years. Lung Addie already wrote about it and especially the roads with a cycle path are very easy to drive. You are whistling on your motorcycle.
Three years ago I bought a Honda PCX in Thailand, a great machine that runs like a sewing machine. Now 15.000 km on the counter and never had a problem.
The region that Lung Addie describes is very nice to drive, especially if you follow roads along the Gulf of Thailand. My wife, who often travels along, knows better than anyone how to find small fish restaurants where the food is excellent and the fish comes straight from the sea to your plate.
The region around Bang Saphan and Chumphon is unknown to tourists, but it is certainly of unspoilt beauty.
I wonder how long we can enjoy that.