Chiang Mai – Thailand at its best

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Chiang Mai, the special city in the north of the country, is 700 kilometers, about 1 hour flight from the capital Bangkok.

Several airlines offer daily flights. Chiang Mai can also be reached by train; preferably take the night train from Hua Lamphong station in Bangkok (travel time approx. 12 hours) and discover this special city and the beautiful surroundings.

Differences

The differences between Bangkok and Chiang Mai are big. After Bangkok with its hectic traffic, crowded streets, poorly accessible sidewalks and oppressive heat, Chiang Mai is a relief. You notice it immediately upon arrival; the atmosphere is different, relaxed, it is less hot, walking in the city is a lot more pleasant, the traffic is less busy and there are plenty of cozy terraces. The distances in the old, walled city center are relatively short, but if you don't feel like walking, you can use the many songtaews and tuk-tuks that are less breakneck than their counterparts in the capital.

Temples

Chiang Mai was the ancient capital of the Lanna Kingdom, which included the entire north of the country plus large parts of Burma (Myanmar) and Laos. That kingdom (1250-1860) lives on in the typical Lanna architectural style of which beautiful examples can be found in and around Chiang Mai. Chiang Mai is also a city of temples; 100 in the city center alone. They are usually not as lavishly decorated with glass and gold leaf as their counterparts in Bangkok, but certainly no less interesting and impressive.

From my room in the brand new boutique hotel U Chiang Mai I have a view of the oldest of all temples, the Wat Chedi Luang, built in 1391, about 60 meters high, but before the earthquake of 1545 even 90 meters high. The old temple, partly in ruins, is impressive only because of the monumental staircase of the great chedi. Nearby is the 14th century Wat Phra Sing, the most famous of all temples in Chiang Mai.

Markten

Besides temples, Chiang Mai has another major attraction: markets. Of course there are plenty of modern, well-equipped shops, but for atmospheric (and cheap) shopping you go to the market. There is the famous Night Bazar that draws crowds every night, but I found the Sunday market most interesting.

Every Sunday afternoon from around 15.00pm, the main street Ratchadamnoen Road and a handful of side streets are closed to traffic, after which a dense, undulating mass of stalls, food stalls and merchandise displayed on the ground continues into the night hours. The U Chiang Mai Hotel is a perfect base for this, because the event takes place right in front of the door.

Ping river

Dining at the Ping

When it's time for dinner I decide to visit the Ping River, which flows south of downtown, with cozy looking restaurants on the banks. My female tuk-tuk driver – a merry chatterbox who manages to cut her shrill voice above the rumble of the engine – takes me to an address she says is the very best: Good View Restaurant. She appears not to have said too much; the dishes that come to the table, fish, squid, meat, vegetables, rice, soup, are fresh and taste excellent. And the ice-cold Singha beer tastes heavenly. A cooling breeze blows from the dark water in which the light of the city is reflected, a band plays soft Thai music. Life is good in Chiang Mai.

Operating base

Those who visit Chiang Mai should certainly also take time for the area. The biggest attraction is the temple complex on Mount Doi Suthep, about 15 kilometers north of the city. The buildings are breathtakingly beautiful, the view is overwhelming. Those looking for something higher can visit the national park and Mount Doi Inthanon, with 2565 meters the highest of Thailand.

By far the most popular are multi-day treks to the hill tribes, the so-called hill tribes – Hmong, Karen, Akha, Lahu and Lisu – in the north, but a relaxed bike ride through sleepy villages and between the rice fields is also possible. On this Chiang Mai Cycle Tour (www.chiangmaibicycle.com) you will get to know the Thai countryside extensively. A little further away there are training camps for elephants (eg in Mae Sa), villages where ceramics, silverware and parasols are made. And the crowning glory is the Golden Triangle, the three-country point where Myanmar, Laos and Thailand meet. A name that appeals strongly to the imagination, just like Mae Hong Son where women and girls adorn themselves with copper rings around the neck, the so-called long necks.

Author: Henk Bouwman