Living as a Single Farang in the Jungle: On the road 9 – Tha Sae, the hell of the South West
It's been a while since Lung addie, in his own region, has been on a motorcycle reconnaissance. This was because he took most of the interesting places of Chumphon province with him. But there was another reasonable area that had actually fallen into oblivion a bit, namely Tha Sae, an area bordering Myanmar.
Tha Sae is one of the largest districts of Chumphon province, in terms of area but not in terms of population. Tha Sae has 10 tambons, 4 of which border Myanmar. Only a ridge of hills forms the border between the two countries. This border area is a very rough region. Very bad, unpaved dirt roads with very steep slopes. Most of these roads were created by agricultural vehicles and heavy army trucks that forced their way through this area. Most of the widely scattered houses have neither electricity nor running water. There is no internet, because in many places there is even no telephone coverage.
The inhabitants of this area live from agriculture and forestry. Many plantations with durian, rubber and palm trees. The main thing is coffee. About 60% of the Thai Robusta coffee comes from this area.
We originally leave with 6 motorcycles, two of which with a pillion seat. Three shoppers and three scooters, two of which have automatic gears. The run-up to the final goal, Pha Peid Yai viewpoint, is still on well-passable roads. A first stop at Wat Pru and a second at Thep Charoen Temple. At this temple, in Tha Kham tambon, there is an extensive cave complex. These caves were used in the past as a shelter for the local population during raids by gangs of robbers from Myanmer, something that happened regularly in the past.
After these stops we cross the Phet Kasem Road and this is where the trouble begins. The roads are getting worse and worse. There is no longer even any hardening. Dirt roads littered with pits, humps and especially slits due to washed away earth. Red dust and more dust, kicked up by passing pickups. Slopes that can hardly be taken with a shopper. These machines are totally unsuitable for off-road work. Duo-seaters have to get off and continue on foot, the scooters with automatic gears didn't make it and had to stop the fight... it's actually madness this time.
And then comes the moment that every motorcyclist dreads: Lung Addie, who always rides last in the group, gets into trouble. He can't get into first gear on a super-steep section, the engine sputters and dies. Still with both feet on the ground and the brakes closed, but there he is... the road is too narrow to turn around, can't put the bike on its position because it will tip over. Reversing is impossible… so can only stay where it is, but that is also not an option, you can't keep that up for long, keeping 350 kg in balance and having nowhere to go with an engine that won't start… ??? It will therefore be a “controlled emergency landing”. Tilt the bike slowly onto the drop bars and then crawl under them and wait for help to turn the bike around and descend the slope. No physical damage and no damage to the engine, yes it could be worse.
Help came quickly in the form of two Thai ladies appearing out of nowhere. There is no need for much explanation, they immediately realized what was going on…. Apparently they had done this or was this the permanent “rescue team” of Pha Peid Yai ??? After this rescue operation and allowing the engine to cool down, Lung addie launches another attack. This time with more success and the end result, or can you call it the reward, is a beautiful 360° view over a large part of the Chumphon province.
Two other participants were introduced to the Tha Sae soil. One got stuck in a ditch beside the road and overturned in the mud. Another stopped because of a clogged fuel filter and also overturned. A technical problem, that just had to happen to the 'Motor Doctor' (the name given to our motor technician).
All in all, this trip through “Hell of the South West” was an experience in itself. Not worth repeating immediately, wait a few years until the road construction is in a further state, that is the message. So Rob and Jos, don't put this on the schedule for the Bikerboys of Hua Hin.
Dear Lung Addie,
Nice adventurous story.
I myself really enjoy discovering things on the motorcycle.
It's sometimes better than in a car where you don't actually experience anything of your surroundings.
Yours faithfully,
Erwin
Hi Lung Addie,
Although it was an arduous ride, it was probably a nice experience.
We undertook a similar tour from Khanom to Shichon 2 years ago.
Driving on the scooter was not possible due to the rocks and the height and depth differences.
Had muscle pain for a week, but one of the many fun experiences.
We have already taken various tours that you have described in recent years, and experienced them as wonderful. But not the above. Aren't we getting too old for Lung Addie?
Or are you an Olympic athlete?
Ga zo door.
Dear Gonny,
I didn't mention it in my story but honestly: I also felt pain all over for a few days, not from the emergency landing but from the constant dragging to keep the bike on the road between the many pits, humps and ruts. My wrists especially hurt afterwards.
And too old for such a thing? Gonny, we can't accept that at our 'young' age. Rather go down to the ground than have to sit between the gerarniums, here the orchids.
Thanks for reporting on one of the biker boys you met in Ban Krut
John
My advice as a motorcyclist, including Harley Roadking GVW incl accessories over 400 kg, is to start in first gear at the start of a steep slope.
Especially if the slope is a sandy path or is in poor condition.
You can switch to later if necessary, but it can come to a standstill when you switch back.
Giving some throttle quickly when downshifting can sometimes also offer a solution.
I understand it's a tricky situation.
Most big bike touring accidents happen at low speed or when stationary.
It is therefore not for nothing that my first class insurance has an excess of 25000 baht for such damage.
Jan Beute.
Dear Jan,
I can immediately see from your response, I already knew that, that you are a very experienced motorcyclist. Your comment is quite justified, as well as giving it some back throttle, as it used to be, when the gearboxes were not yet synchronized. A technique that many people don't even know anymore. Sometimes it is very difficult to estimate what is coming after a bend and in Thailand they dare to provide surprises, especially on those rural roads, gradients that exceed any standard…. staying calm and putting the facts in order is the only solution.
Another beautiful story and admire your courage to undertake this. You warn
I take to heart any comments/advice at the end!!