Phrae, a paradise in the North

By Gringo
Posted in Sights, thai tips, Tourism
Tags: , , ,
30 September 2023

Phrae is a province in the North of Thailand with a lot of natural beauty and cultural attractions, a charming lifestyle and good food.

The Yom River flows right through it and Phrae has many green mountain regions. The distance to Bangkok is about 550 kilometers. It has a long history and has had other names in the past, such as Nakhon Pol and Wiang Kosai.

Lanna Kingdom

Muang Phrae, the provincial capital, is located on the site of an ancient city, frequently mentioned in historical documents, inscriptions and legends. In AD 927, Queen Jammathevi of Hariphunchai (Lampoon) ascended the throne of the Lanna Kingdom and named the area Wiang Kosai, which means silk cloth. A 1283 inscription by King Ramkhamhaeng the Great of Sukhothai records a change of name, which read: “The area to which my feet point while I sleep is where Muang Phrae resides.”

Phrae, ancient fortified city

Like Chiang Mai, Phrae has retained the character of an old fortified city, with rustic alleys lined with teak houses and temples. Many of these teak mansions were built by Europeans who were active in the teak trade in the 19th century. Phrae was the center of the teak industry at the time.

Today, Phrae still has many forests, ideal for hiking and trekking or a kayaking tour on the Kaeng Luang River. There are several national parks, such as Mae Yom and Wiang Kosai, with hill tribe villages and teak plantations, where logging is now legally prohibited. In Phrae itself, culture vultures can visit the Ban Fai Museum of Ethnology. For the gourmands, there are several local delicacies, such as the Khantoke meal, consisting of “khanomjeen nam ngieuw”, a clear soup, “khai jiew naem”, omelette with sour sausage and “khanom tom”, a dessert.

Wat Prathatsuthone

festivals

Phrae has quite a few cultural festivals. The traditional Lay Krathong festival is well known, but the annual Swing Festival of hill tribes and a ceremony to worship Phrathat Chor Hae also attract many visitors. Festivals in Phrae reflect the many cultures and traditions of Phrae's residents, who come from diverse backgrounds. The original inhabitants are the Thai Lue, from the Chinese province of Yunnan, but the Tai Puan, the Karen and Burmese also belong to the core of the population.

Mae Yom National Park

Attractions Phrae

The TAT (Tourist Authority of Thailand) has compiled a list of 18 tourist attractions for Phrae, some of which I will mention:

  • Wong Buri Residence, on Kham Lue Road in the center. Built in 1907 by Chinese artisans from teak wood in a European fairytale style. Behind this house is the Wong Sunan temple, whose carvings on the facade, eaves stand out. At the front of the doors you see stucco in the shape of a goat, the original residents were born in The Year of the Goat. The house has served as a venue for films and drama series on several occasions.
  • Another interesting residence is Khan Chao Luang, where the last ruler of Phrae, Chao Luang Piriyatheppawong lived. The two-storey building was also built in 1892 in a mixed Thai-European style. It has 72 beautifully crafted doors and windows as well as matching facades and roof. The basement of Khum Chao Luang is about two meters high. It has rooms where prisoners and slaves were held, leading to rumors that the basement is haunted. The room in the middle is completely dark and was used for prisoners convicted of a serious crime, while the other two rooms with small windows were for those convicted of minor offenses The house has already won several awards for its exceptional architecture got.
  • De City Pillar Shrine is located on Khun Deom Road in the center of Phrae. In this shrine there is a stone with an inscription from the Sukhothai period, from which one can read - in old Thai - the history of the construction of this shrine.
  • What Luang on Kham Lue Road is the main curb in Phrae and is about the same age as the city itself. It has undergone several restorations. The most important features are the Chiang Saen style of the chedi, in which a sacred relic from Burma is enshrined, and the vihara (a small temple), which houses the Phra Chao Saen Luang, a Buddha statue in meditation posture in a Lanna and Sukhotai style. The temple is also a museum with antiques, including 500-year-old Buddha statues.
  • De Wichai Racha residence in the center of Phrae is a Manila-style teak house, built between 1891-1895. Its wooden facade, roof, balconies, windows and doors are beautifully designed. It was the residence of Phaya Saen Srichava and then Phra Wichai Racha, who saved many Thais who were threatened to be killed by Shan traitors during the 1902 uprising. The Thais were kept hidden in the attic of this house.
  • Mae Yom National Park; This national park is located 48 kilometers from the city of Phrae. The Yom River flows through the mountainous national park. On the Yom River in the park you will find the “Kaeng Sua Ten Rapids”, a two kilometer long rock formation.
  • Of course also to mention is the Chomping market, a large market built in the old style, where a wide variety of fruit and vegetables, fish, meat, souvenirs and numerous Thai, Chinese and Western food stalls.

There is much more to see and experience in Phrae province, on the Internet you will find more information about the national parks, hill tribe villages, rivers, markets and of course many, many restaurants for typical Thai food from the region. A province more than worth a visit!

11 responses to “Phrae, a paradise in the North”

  1. Horn says up

    We ourselves live in Phrae, in Ampher Song. And health care is very well organized in Provence. There are two private hospitals of very good quality (Phrae Ram and Christian Hospital). The first also employs a pediatrician.
    In addition, there are some private clinics with specialization.

    Land prices are still low, Phrae and Nan are two provences where the daily wage is still very low. And of course it is very nice to stay in Phrae, very beautiful surroundings, not touristy and a wonderfully mild climate.

    Greetings, Corne Leeuwinga

  2. Jack says up

    Phrae is a great place to stay. We have a house in Rongkwang district and are going to hibernate for the second time this year. Don't know all the sights mentioned yet, so thanks for the tips. A special nature reserve east of Phrae is Phae Meuang Phi (Ghostland). Is a bit run down but well worth a visit. I also find the many shops along the highway 101 with many teak things an attraction.
    We also have experience with both hospitals (Christian Hospital and Phrae Ram Hospital). Fine for "ordinary" inconveniences. For something more serious, my wife prefers to go to Bangkok (or the Netherlands because of the insurance).
    Accessibility with the VIP bus from Bangkok is fine, better than by train. Den Chai station is located about 20 km south of Phrae.

    Jacques Koppert

  3. Josh R. says up

    Land prices are still reasonable if you are a little further off the main roads.
    I myself live in Donmoon Sungmen behind the local hospital about 15 km from Phrae and I rent a detached house here for three thousand baths per month, I have a contract for 5 years, which gives me the opportunity to quietly move to a piece of land to search
    for not too much money!! But here too they read newspapers and surf the internet so they know what the land is worth, okay not the same as Chiang Mai but some think they can ask those prices here too.
    Furthermore, living here is not too touristy and quiet, although the Thais all make Thai furniture in the village where I live, just about everyone, but you get used to that noise over time and the medical care is also good I am diabetic and I have my blood checked at the last hospital.

  4. Rob says up

    Indeed, Phrae (and the province of the same name) is a beautiful old town. One afternoon last year in August, I was the only foreigner walking through the old temples in the old part of the city. Seen beautiful local dances at the night market, performed by children from different hill tribes living in the area. Delicious street food eaten opposite a Chinese temple. Where other tourists (whether organized or not) visit the well-known well-trodden high lights, they often miss these kinds of small beautiful towns. Hordes of tourists continue to do so, so that these kinds of "highlights" arise. Highlights, because it remains wonderfully quiet, authentic and non-commercial.

  5. Mike says up

    Nice to read about Phrae in this blog. Well worth a visit. Live in the city of Phrae myself, very friendly and helpful people. And certainly a nice place including the province to visit. With NOK Air only an hour from BKK.

    • Mike says up

      Hello Rob I have a question for you, I will soon be in nongkhai and want to come from there by motorbike to Phrea.
      On the map I see a road running from the town of Tha Pla along the siriket dam to Phrea, do you perhaps have more information for me about this road, thanks Avast for your cooperation.

      Gr mike

      • Mark says up

        You mean the 1163, a winding road through mainly wooded area. No high mountains but surprisingly steep slopes. A nice road if you like cornering.

        Very nice is the tour around the Sirikit lake. Accommodation is in a beautiful rental house in the Nature Park on Din-dam.
        From Tha Pla follow the 1146, turn right in Nam Phat and follow the 1339 until the Na Meun car Ferry. Well, ferry, it's a pontoon of lashed bamboo pulled by a longtail boat that can take 3 cars … and certainly a motorcycle.

        At the ferry step you can eat delicious fish on a floating house. The fish is scooped alive from a hopper for you.

        The ferry will take you to the simple but beautiful Pak Nai Fisherman's village.
        From there you can go to Phrae or Nan via wooded winding roads.

        I myself did the tour around Lake Sirikit a few years ago with a rented Toyota Yaris, automatic in Pataya. Not really a suitable car for such a trip. The bike struggled to get up the steep hills and I had to stop 2 times to let the brakes cool down. Small engine and automatic gearbox, not ideal for something like that.

        But with a good motorcycle or a good pickup / SUV ... certainly a wonderful trip.

  6. Rob V says up

    Museums, etc. are very interesting I think. To better place those about the hiding place for Thai, here is some background info:

    In 1900, Bangkok saw the population in the north (Lanna) and northeast as Lao. Thai in this sense would then refer to Bangkokians. Or if one uses the modern definition: have those who supported Bangkok and thus allowed themselves to be annexed (as opposed to those who resisted the annexation, which of course was labeled rebellion).

    See also: https://www.thailandblog.nl/achtergrond/shan-opstand-noord-thailand/

  7. Pieter1947 says up

    Been living in Phrae for 14 years.Enjoy every day.

  8. Gerard says up

    I too have been living in Phrae, in Sungmen for 12 years now. Lovely town and actually has everything to be equipped with the comforts .... Dutch drink in Phrae after COVID?

    • Mark says up

      Hi Gerard, let me know if that Dutch drink can also have a Flemish touch 🙂
      [email protected]


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