Wat Chang Lom, an outsider in Sukhothai
Wat Chang Lom rear
Wat Chang Lom is part of the immensely large Sukhothai historical park but is outside the most visited and very touristy part. I had already explored the Historical Park at least three times before discovering this temple ruin by chance on a bike ride from the resort where I was staying.
It was already nightfall and the sun was already starting to set when I was on my way with the mission to stock up on some booze at the 7 Elevens when my attention turned to the always busy T-junction of the National Trail 12 and the 1272 was pulled by a pretty rusty and crooked signpost to Wat Chang Lom. Intrigued, I decided to leave my traveling companions on dry land for a while and drove, eager for adventure, in the direction indicated by the pointer. After a few hundred meters it went to the left and I had to cross a bridge over the Mae Ramphan and then almost immediately to the right over a narrow concrete track where I could already see the orange-brown complex between the trees in the rays of the setting sun. perceive. Once out of the trees, this historic temple complex appeared majestically in the middle of the rice fields and as I got closer I was struck by the color palette that the sinking sun conjured up on the stones. A fabulous range of earthy colors from soft terracotta over burnt sienna to dark ocher tones with a touch of red, purple or pink here and there.
Because it was already so late, the shift of the guard loafing around at the small guardhouse was probably over, but when I spontaneously offered him one of my cigars, I was not put in the way and Khun Farang was allowed to go wherever he wanted. While this dutiful civil servant drove his sputtering moped to the bar or home, I had the kingdom to myself. And I have not regretted that.
Wat Chang Lom side view with part of the Wihan
This site is completely dominated by a large stupa, still in very good condition, which was clearly built after Sri Lankan model. This impressive bell-shaped stupa was built on a robust, square brick base measuring 18 by 18 metres. What Chang Lom means roughly translated 'temple surrounded by elephants' and that makes this site special because on the base there are elephants frozen in time that seem to step out of the niches of the stupa. This gives the impression that the entire structure is supported by the backs of these pachyderms.
It is of course no coincidence that these elephants were placed here. In Buddhism, these mighty animals symbolize mental strength and are often depicted as guardians of important shrines and temples. And this was without a doubt an important shrine. After all, archaeologists and art historians assume that this complex may have been built in the early fourteenth century, but the core of the stupa may be older. After all, many historians associate this temple with the Stone No. 1 related to the legendary king Ramkhamhaeng – one of the most important archaeological finds in Sukhothai – and identify this temple as the one where this monarch in 1285 found a number of relics of the Buddha he found in neighboring Si Satchanalai. After due tribute, this stupa or chedi would have been raised above these relics.
Wat Chang Lom detail of the elephants
East of the stupa and almost adjacent to it are the remains of the Wihan, the prayer and meeting space. Only the foundation and a number of damaged laterite pillars are all that remains of this building. A low laterite wall surrounds the entire complex and a wide moat must have closed it off at one time, but nothing can be recognized anymore. Wat Chang Lom is a wonderfully quiet historic temple complex. I have returned to it several times, including with my sons, and we were always completely alone.
If you ever end up in Sukhothai and are still hungry for a special experience after visiting the central Historical Park, take a drive, preferably at sunset, to this ruin. And don't forget to bring a cigarette…
Yes, very special. When visiting Sukhothai Historical Park, it is a very good idea to rent a bicycle at the access road. The park is immense and worth everything.
Again a beautiful description of 1 of the many ancient temples that the country has.
There are quite a few Wat Chang Lom's already. At least 2 in Sukhothai, 1 in Si Satchanalai, 1 in Khampaeng Phet. The names of the temple ruins are also often given later by either the local population or the Thai Fine Arts department, because the original names are usually no longer known.
In Ayutthaya there are still 2 Wat Seua Lom's, temples (stupas in this case) surrounded by tigers.
In Ayutthaya there are indeed two temples with a chedi surrounded, however, not with tigers, but with Khmer lions. Temples in question are Wat Thammikarat (next to the ruins of the old palace) and Wat Mae Nang Plum (north of the island). However, Wat Maheyong has a chedi “chang lom”.
The Khmer lion's origins date back to the Middle East specifically to Persia, where the lion was associated with kingship, a connection brought to India in the third century BC by King Ashoka (c. 268–c. 232 BC). Kingship's association with the strength and power of the lion made the latter a prized effigy in temples and palaces alike as a symbol of protection and prosperity. We already see this element appearing in the pre-Angkor sites of Sambor Prei Kuk and Koh Ker and later in the Angkor Khmer empire where the Siamese – so to speak – got the mustard from.
Wat Thammikarat is a pre-Ayutthaya temple and there is evidence that Ayodhya, the predecessor of Ayutthaya, was a Khmer outpost of Lopburi. So it would not surprise me that the Siamese (once driving out the Khmer) in their architectural style simply replaced the Khmer lions with elephants, since the latter had an identical symbolism for them.
You're right about the Chedi being surrounded by lions. Mistake on my part
For your information: Besides the 'chedi chang lom' of Wat Maheyong in Ayutthaya, where the stucco elephants are still clearly visible, there were a number of other sites that had the same type of stupa, namely: Wat Chang (south of Wat Maheyong) and Wat Hatsadawat (west of Wat Na Phra Men). Archaeological excavations also show that the important temples Wat Maha That and Wat Ratcha Burana in Ayutthaya had a chedi surrounded by elephants within their walls. (https://www.ayutthaya-history.com/Temples_Ruins_Maheyong.html).
Next week we will travel to Thailand again, after a day in Bangkok we will make a six-day tour through Isaan, and we will visit Sukhothai for the second time. If the Thai guide knows this, we will definitely look into it, thanks for the tip.
Kind regards Walter,
wonderfully written. It was like you were telling it to myself (sitting opposite me with a nice cool beer). TO ENJOY.
The temple is located on a kind of bicycle path of 15 km between Sukhothai city and Sukhothai park, not to be confused with cycling in the park itself, which many people also do. Also located near Sweet Rice Cafe, nice coffee shop if you are in the area. https://bicyclethailand.com/new-bicycle-path-sukhothai-historical-park/
I hope, like many with me, that we can go to Thailand again in March 2021 and then straight on to Sukhothai where we always cycle with friend Jib.
We will definitely go to this Wat Chang Lom, certainly also at the end of the day and who knows, also visit Sweet Rice Cafe.
What a great idea, let's hope it actually works.....
Orish at dawn in winter when the grass is dewy.