Greetings from Isaan (part 3)

By The Inquisitor
Posted in Living in Thailand
Tags: , ,
February 1 2018

The Inquisitor is awakened by the bustle of honey-dear, a glance at the window lets a beginning dawn shine through the curtains. Strange because the sweet is usually already out of bed around this time. Drunk in sleep, The Inquisitor throws off the duvet and then he feels the cold. Guys, it's that time again. Another cold wave passes over Isaan, it was announced but as always it overtakes De Inquisitor.

Because of the cold it was nice to lie down a bit and now she is laughing with a muttering Inquisitor. Because he can't find his 'slows' and the floor is ice cold. The bathrobe is also not to be found, there is nothing else to do than to quickly stumble to the bathroom in his nakedness, the love follows him in the same outfit - so nothing, and we both burst into laughter. Last night we talked about it, we were going to get the slippers and bathrobes ready, it was already cooling down, but forgotten because of other pleasures.

Mumbling even louder, The Inquisitor starts the winter dressing ritual, which he hates. That is so easy about three hundred and forty days a year: a refreshing and awakening shower, wearing underpants and shorts, a T-shirt. Done.
Now the shower is immediately skipped, too cold for the time being. After the underpants the fight with the socks - hopping on one leg every time, it doesn't work very well, the socks purchased here are just a bit too small and difficult to pull over the feet. Then a thermal undershirt, an expensive purchase in a shopping mall but very efficient. Putting on long trousers and noticing that they have shrunk since the last time – De Inquisitor hopes. Then a shirt with long sleeves and as the crowning glory, or rather as a last defense against the cold, a sweater. In speed he quickly scrapes a hat along.

The coffee is also a problem. Hot water in a too thick stone cup, by the time the 'three-in-one' has been dissolved, the water has already cooled down. A lukewarm cup of coffee, yuck. More misery is what follows. In recent months, De Inquisitor has been moving to the downstairs terrace every morning instead of upstairs. That is much more fun because it has been redecorated, and much more social too, because direct contact with the sweetheart who gets her shop ready for the day fifteen meters away. Windows have now been installed in the sitting area, the rest of the terrace is still open. Those windows are there as a shield during the rainy season and also keep the terrace free of wind. But it is just as cold as outside. So the morning ritual of reading newspapers and email, possibly blogging – cold. Too cold this morning, it's fourteen degrees.

So get to work, a house and garden always gives you something to do. Shaving hedges, a big and heavy job, fortunately there is the electric hedge trimmer. After an hour and a half, De Inquisitor is already tired. Wearing too much clothes. That bothers him greatly, The Inquisitor has the feeling that he can hardly move. And despite the wind intensifying the cold, he is sweating. Because The Inquisitor has come to really appreciate the Isaan mantra of 'you should feel good', he leaves the hedge trimmer for what it is. A nice hot shower is what he needs, sweat away and get a warm feeling.

Also not so handy because the bathroom is freezing cold. The sun is failing, which means that the temperature has only risen gradually, and walls and floors have cooled down to such an extent that they radiate cold. Hell, it makes The Inquisitor despondent. So first electrically heating the bathroom, meanwhile comforting the two cats, they don't like it either. Then choose suitable clothing, no more work attire, but that is searching. He still has long jeans, but less sweaters and other suitable clothing. Although it is his fourth Isaan winter, De Inquisitor remains ill-prepared. Every time he intends to buy some thicker clothing, but once those few days of cold are over, he has forgotten it. Who buys winter clothes at thirty degrees and more?

For the rest of the day, his only concern is staying warm. While together with the love on the couch under a Winnie The Pooh blanket, no view but nice and warm. But every time a customer comes, go, blanket away and cold. Just to the neighbor, poa Sid. He has a fire burning around the clock on such days, the smoke will be worst to him, in contrast to De Inquisitor who already feels like a smoked eel after half an hour. And it seems nice, but it's actually not. Your body is alternately warm on either the front or the back, so you always have a cold side. It seems as if the smoke keeps coming towards The Inquisitor, he can choose position wherever he wants, hoopla, smoke in the nose.

Around four o'clock in the afternoon De Inquisitor starts to get bored, how about a beer? Nah, way too cold for that. So a hot chocolate. The Inquisitor is pondering a bit over that cup of consolation. He made a mistake and it is hard to rectify it.

When the house was built, no thought was given to the cold periods here in this climate, which is quite different from the milder maritime climate in Pattaya where he lived for nine years. The Inquisitor had already been to Isaan, but too briefly. Nakhom Panon, around new year and even for few days. Cold after sunset, warm during the day, moreover that was during a three-day party in some village, that nightly cold did not affect De Inquisitor. In the months before the construction of the house started, The Inquisitor regularly came to the village here for a week or so, even in the 'winter'. But every time he was here, coincidentally no cold spell. The construction of the house was from March to September, so warm, much warmer even than there on the coast.

The Inquisitor can handle the heat well, in fact, that was one of the main reasons why he went to Thailand, and he felt that the air conditioning was only necessary in extreme heat. Two were provided, in the bedrooms.
And so it was built with cement blocks that only have a cement coating on the inside and outside. A kind of light insulation under the tiled roof, that was all, and against the heat. Many sliding windows, for fresh air and lots of light, but single glazing. Heating, in any way, nothing provided. On the contrary, het lief and De Inquisitor found out quite quickly that they were outdoorsmen, so there is not even a significant living. Many terraces, nice in the open air.

That's a bit annoying now. Heat, heat – no problem. But those cold days, big problem. It is improvisation: during his first acquaintance with those cool periods, De Inquisitor went looking and found a small electric grill in the moving boxes. You don't use charcoal here, do you? That became a heating element. Surprisingly very efficient: heats up quickly, can be placed anywhere due to its small size. Bit of a strange sight those hot red elements, you have to be a bit careful but it was a relief.

A really hot heated bathroom that was easily brought to thirty degrees in the short term, bliss. This in combination with a new hot water boiler: the first was too small and too light to bring the ice-cold groundwater up to temperature and was replaced by an expensive model of eight thousand watts, but now always nice and hot water. Bringing the bedroom with that grill to twenty-five degrees was no problem at all, we just remained vigilant so that we closed the fire before we fell asleep.
In the meantime, the latter has also changed: a good friend brought the solution, he had a 'real' heating element left over, a graceful block without open heating elements. Also electric, but much more controllable, good efficiency and that is now in the bedroom. Bit in the way yes, no room for it during construction... .

Fortunately, those cool days are actually quite rare. About the same every year: three to four times during a maximum of one week in the period December-February. Still a good advice for those who have become as averse to cold as De Inquisitor and who still have to build in Isaan: also provide the option of heating!

To be continued….

7 responses to “Greetings from Isaan (part 3)”

  1. Hans Pronk says up

    Fourteen degrees does indeed feel very cold here in Isaan. There is always quite a bit of wind, no sun and the low humidity doesn't help either. That combination is not pleasant. But our bedroom is draught-free if we close the window and with a duvet it is doable, even without heating. Unfortunately, most Isaaners do not have a warm duvet and certainly no heating. That's cold for them.

    With this cold we eat dinner inside. Too cold outside.

  2. Lunghan says up

    Exactly as it is, yes, I have taken it into account here in Isan, outside walls of concrete blocks, spou 7cm, inside walls of aerated concrete blocks glued, ceiling insulation, glass wool 7cm, only single glazing, but a lot more comfortable inside when it is cold, have in the bedroom an inverter, gets nice and warm when it gets too cold.
    But I did everything myself, luckily I come from the construction world, and I like doing it.
    So for the upcoming builders, insulation, people say the same here as in the Netherlands, "what is good for the heat is also good for the cold" that's why those Thai always walk completely covered, even with 40gr.
    Now sit comfortably inside, here now only 16 gr. brrr.

    • Ger Korat says up

      Building is one thing, understanding climate control is another. It is warm 1 weeks a year and if you build your house with insulation with extra walls, it usually stays nice and warm inside and your air conditioning runs extra hours to cool things down. Solid objects such as walls retain heat and radiate it continuously, so it is better to have thin walls rather than a single wall. And then for those 50 weeks a year that it is cold you put on some extra clothing. And an extra duvet at night.
      '

      • rentier says up

        As far as insulation is concerned, I do not agree with Ger. Before I started to insulate the large corrugated cement roof, I felt the heat radiating from a meter above my head in the middle of the day. It turned out that those plates became more than 70 degrees hot in the full sun. After I had placed only 3 cm thick Tempex under it, it was only 30 degrees and very doable. In Thailand, the roof must be allowed to cross considerably so that the sun does not shine on the walls. Insulation against the walls, eg Tempex against the outside wall and a cement plate against it inside, is enough to keep it below 30 degrees. (my practical experience!) and it keeps the cold out and if something is heated inside the house, not all heat is immediately lost. Don't forget to cover the mostly soft board ceilings with a glass wool blanket and stimulate an air flow under your roof.

  3. Jose hotel says up

    Am now for the 3rd time for a month in the village with the family of Nut near Thep Sathit in the province of Chayapum, This morning also suddenly overcome by the cold (15o). After we came home tonight it was even colder in our modest house. No form of heating available, but bought a cooler the day before yesterday hahaha, Fortunately I had just brought a kind of fairly warm old tracksuit from the Netherlands and warm socks, which were actually only meant for the plane, but now come in handy!
    Tomorrow we will hunt for 1 or 2 electric heaters.
    Does this have anything to do with climate change? Can't remember from previous years that it was this cold and the coming night it will be around 11o, brrr… 'Fortunately it is -1o at home in Amsterdam.

  4. Erwin Fleur says up

    Dear,

    Since we do not yet live permanently in De Isaan, we do not yet have a hot water boiler, but we do have the connection.
    Everything you actually need on a daily basis (which we do have) will break down or collect dust if we do
    not be there.

    For example, on my last visit I had a few cold days .. so no hot shower, on which my family
    invited me to take a hot shower with them.
    I, like a true Isaaner, refused this and came up with a solution myself.

    We have a kettle that makes hot water(5), but in this case I just used this solution to generate my own hot water shower for the amusement of my family.

    It was another pleasant nice cold day on this one.
    Yours faithfully,

    Jong

  5. rentier says up

    It is nothing new for the Isaan that it can be very cold for shorter periods. 25 years ago I already drove through the Isaan that you saw fires everywhere along the roads with thickly dressed people rubbing their hands around them. At the time, living just outside Bangkok, the house was hermetically closed against the cold wind.
    I am also someone who came to Thailand mainly for the heat so that moving is less painful and smoother and finally no cold feet and chronic colds. After being forced to return to the Netherlands for a few years, when I returned to the Isaan in 2016, I immediately purchased a fake wood burner, which is actually a radiant heater that provides enough heat to heat a room to 25 degrees fairly quickly. I have now moved 5 times in 15 months and carry the heater everywhere and have often needed it. The seasons and therefore temperatures have certainly changed over the years in Thailand. It would be a kind of high tourist season in Thailand between November 15 and February 15 because it used to be cork dry, but that is no longer guaranteed. In Chaiyapum (Ban Phet), where I now live in a large wooden rental house with a large covered roof terrace behind the house, I immediately made sliding doors all around and insulated the entire roof with Tempex, which works as long as the wind is gone. But I'm not in Thailand to sit inside with windows and doors closed for a few months a year. So have my love and I rented a house on the sea between Rayong and Kleang where we are moving at the end of this month and hope the weather there is a bit milder? The radiant heater is moving again and the entire aluminum conversion of the roof terrace is also coming along, maybe I can also create something with that, even if only against the mosquitoes in the evening? The advantage of renting is that you are more mobile than when you first have to get the house sold. I came to Thailand with 40 km extra body weight and had brought enough warm clothes in XXXL with me, but these days they just fall off my body so maybe I should look for a new warm wardrobe? It keeps adapting and making the most of it. I am also thinking about building a fireplace, although that is not good for nature.


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