Just Chiang Rai
Myanmar view.
I have never made it a secret on this blog that I feel very much at home in Chiang Rai. In the city, yes, but much more so in the province of the same name; the northernmost in Thailand.
I roam around a lot on my bike, and I have regularly reported on this in the past. My cycling computer now indicates more than 40.000 km, and those are only the kilometers kicked away with my current Thai mountain bike (of around 300 euros…..). Without accidents - knock on the door - and, apart from a number of usually very inconvenient punctures and a breaking chain, also without major inconveniences and technical problems.
Admittedly, I can't get everywhere on that bike. Some of the stretches here have horribly steep inclines – the kind where you have to go back to first gear in a manual car – which, as a 77-year-old heart attack survivor, I just can't get into. The car or the 'motosai' is then the logical alternative for the route in question. But I still don't turn my hand around for a bicycle return trip to Phan of around 100 km on somewhat flatter roads….
One such route, which has been on my wish list for some time, runs from Highway 1, 40 km north of Chiang Rai city, via the 1400-meter high Doi Tung and an army-guarded mountain road right on the border with Myanmar, which eventually brings you to the border town of Mae Sai. By the way, if you only want to reach Mae Sai, it is better to stay on that (flat) Highway 1 and you are much shorter (and easier) on the road than via the mountain route.
So I wouldn't be able to do it on the bike, but with my partner at the wheel of her car I didn't have to worry about a too high heartbeat.
The road to the top of Doi Tung is not too steep and the excellent road surface flows smoothly through the landscape in many - wide - bends. The Royal Garden, also called Mae Fa Luang Garden, and the Royal Villa are popular tourist attractions there.
That villa – Phra Tamnak Doi Tung – was the summer residence of King Bhumibol's (Rama XI) mother, Princess Srinagarinda; she was also the inspiration for the beautiful flower garden.
Both are more than worth a visit, but because we had already done that, we continued after a strong cup of coffee and a tour of the Ahka market.
Wat Phra That Doi Tung, with the stupas that is said to contain a collarbone of Lord Buddha.
The next stop was about 6 km further, still on top of Doi Tung, at a beautiful temple, Wat Phra That Doi Tung. The history of this temple dates back to the 10th century. According to tradition, the left collarbone of Lord Buddha is located in one of the 2 stupas, which means that this place, which is considered sacred, is high on the list of temples to visit for many Buddhists from Thailand and surrounding countries. When the weather is clear, you can also enjoy beautiful views from the temple grounds.
From this temple to Mae Sai via the road – no. 1149 – which is largely right on the border – it is another 23 km. The road is guarded by the army; it is not uncommon for drug smugglers and other illegal border crossers to be caught here trying to enter Thailand at night.
At the first military checkpoint, a place has been set up where you can also set up your tent if desired.
Soon you come across a military checkpoint where your car is photographed and a picture of the occupants is also taken with their IDs. That is repeated between Doi Tung and Mae Sai 3 more times…….
The road itself is not very good. Often quite narrow, always winding, then steep up and down again, and a road surface that hardly deserves that name in some places. Tight corners in which oncoming traffic must be passed carefully. You will not encounter double-decker coaches here, a minivan is the largest usable means of transport. So you shouldn't be in a hurry, but why should you; the view is great in many places.
You eventually arrive in Mae Sai, and rejoin Highway 1 not far from the border office. The border crossing to Tacilek in Myanmar is still closed, so Mae Sai is still less busy and bustling than in the past. Hopefully that will change in the near future; there are signs that the border will be opened again, but it remains to be seen how wide that opening will be.
Winding up and down on the border between Thailand and Myanmar.
Driving back to Chiang Rai on Highway 1, you can still see the mountain range on your right.
We'll do this again, we're happy to promise!
'Down' again in Mae Sai, where this small river – the Sop Ruak – separates Tacilek in Myanmar.
Respect Cornelius. Many more years of healthy cycling pleasure. By the way, we also love Chiang Rai, at least for an annual visit, but still prefer to live in our quiet village on the coast.
Very nice and interesting article. We love that!
Thanks.
Hello Cornelius,
Yes, that's a very nice trip. Have done that myself a few times and probably again in 2 weeks when my son and his girlfriend come to visit us here in Mae Chan (we live near the Choui Fong tea plantation). On the way you also have Life Museum (a coffee shop with a beautiful view of a lake and mountains). And eating in one of the restaurants high in the mountains near Mae Chan with a view of Myanmar / Tachileik) is also spectacular, especially in the evening.
By the way, hats off to your cycling trips, you must be in a very good condition. But it's beautiful here.
Regards, Rob
Beautiful and that you can still enjoy a lot, on the bike where possible.
Dear Cornelius,
We are going back to Thailand at the end of January, and maybe we will end up in Chiang Rai, but that depends entirely on the ideas of my little Thai helmsman. We were once 'in the area', after a long and blood-curdling bus ride to Mae Hong Son, but never visited the place ourselves. It looks beautiful, and I wish you many more safe cycling kilometers. Hats off by the way, because your condition has to be much better than mine to do this.
With all due respect Cornelis, I've done that route before, first on the Thai "moped", later on a motorcycle and last year by car. Respect for the very steep parts that you have cycled up and down, especially on those very narrow descents with a 300-degree bend every ten meters and bad road surface. But beautiful views. Hope to read from you often.
Too much credit, Leo. You can't escape climbing parts here in the north, but these seemed too much to me. The ride with my partner in her car confirmed that I had rightly left the bike at home…….
The first approach to Doi Tung is still manageable, as you will have seen yourself, but further on it sometimes seems as if you are driving towards a wall …….
I now see that in my text I mention the previous king Rama XI, but that must of course be Rama IX……… Typo!
All very recognizable, except that cycling…..
We live in Chiang Mai six months a year. Because we had to do a border bounce, we immediately turned it into a trip. First two nights Chiang Rai, next day to Chiang Kong for visa. Next day via Doi Mae Salong to Tha Ton, where we are now sitting on the terrace of the hotel sipping an espresso.
Tomorrow back to Chiang Mai. We enjoyed again!
Beautiful route, via Thaton and Fang to Chiang Mai!
Wonderful story, Cornelius. Yes, it's a beautiful area. I lived in Chiang Kham (Phayao) for 12 years and in Chiang Mai for 6 years.
I admire your bike rides. We often went out by car, but cycling seems much more fun to me. If only I had bought an e-bike…..