Grabbed from the Isan life. A sequel (part 3)

By The Inquisitor
Posted in Isaan, Living in Thailand
Tags: ,
October 9, 2017

What is such an expat doing there in Isaan? No compatriots around, not even European cultures. No cafes, no Western restaurants. No entertainment. Well, The Inquisitor chose this life and is not bored at all. This time stories in non-chronological days, no weekly report, but always just a blog, sometimes current, sometimes from the past.


Cooking

Cooking is one of the things that De Inquisitor has taken on. He had to be able to enjoy the afterglow with a full belly every now and then. Because otherwise there is Isaan food on the menu, he can appreciate a number of things, but even then he is hungry again after two hours, despite the large quantities of sticky rice that he consumes. In his previous life, De Inquisitor never cooked but was interested in it.
That is why it has become a hobby and it entails a lot of pleasant work.

In the beginning, the kitchen was a guaranteed mess with a mountain of dishes afterwards, but now it goes much more smoothly. The laptop is still close by. After almost three years of experience, De Inquisitor ventures into more complicated dishes and still needs guidance for many things. And has he learned to first draw up a kind of menu of the desired dishes so that he knows which ingredients are needed, it used to happen that he, in full boil, came to the conclusion that he was without peppers for the Hungarian goulash … . Real.

So everything starts with preparing the desired dishes, and then De Inquisitor draws up a shopping list. He sets off with that list. Plain potatoes-with-vegetable-meat sauce can often be sourced locally. But they don't have good bacon, for example, which is usually thickly sliced ​​here with a lot of fat and little meat. For good and less fatty minced meat, he has to go to the local Lotus Express, a reduced edition of those large Lotus warehouses, and then it remains to be seen whether they have it in stock. The same also applies to something as simple as potatoes – occasionally offered on the market, but often not when our own stock is exhausted.

Fish is no problem at all, it is offered alive and immediately prepared for cooking by the market trader. He also buys pork on the market, but for beef it remains to be seen whether the illegal butchers have a cow….
Chicken easily touches the farang: just talk to a neighbor and half an hour later a whole chicken arrives, already dead, yes, but still warm and with all the trimmings. Must bring the lady to a ready-to-cook level before The Inquisitor touches it. Nice is not it?

So it is regularly necessary for him to travel to Sakun Nakhon, about ninety kilometers away. There is a Makro, and in the local shopping mall a Tops warehouse, they have quite a bit of import here. Take along the large ISO cool box and a large plastic lockable container on the pick-up, Makro doesn't give bags, you know.

The Inquisitor considers this an excursion. Very occasionally it even goes to Udon Thani, and then it becomes a three-day, because De Inquisitor cannot pass up the restaurants and other fun there.
Usually the lady goes along because Makro is also interesting for the shop now and then because of the offers.
Because departures always take place in the morning, he can already make a first stop before Pang Kon, there is a food stall on the track with delicious , a Thai soup with your choice of pork, beef or duck, with lots of vegetables. Delicious breakfast.

There is even a Home Pro on the same road to Sakun. Large warehouse, mix of Brico and Ikea, many western goods. Always nice to walk around, annoying if you really have to buy something. Because way too many employees. Who come in from you like some kind of undercover agent and walk with you as soon as you stop to take a closer look, they attack you. Who insist on pushing your cart. Who, if you do want to buy something, constantly want to promote a different brand or model than what you have chosen.
Who always need hours to get to the checkout with your desired product. Where The Inquisitor is then eating himself up and is therefore in serious need of a cigarette. But sometimes you have to be there as a farang, they do have some more products that we think are necessary and are not available elsewhere.

The fellow villagers are always amazed at the strange purchases he makes. Like a lawnmower, that was the first ever to come to the village, people had no idea what it was for.

Then Macro. The Inquisitor always finds it cozy and fun there. Shopping in the knowledge that everything is really necessary, no impulse purchases, always stick to the list, especially the spouse - please dear? The Inquisitor always tastes the coffee offered, without any intention to buy.
It is usually nice ladies who recommend that, a nice change between all that food and non-food. And De Inquisitor leaves the checkout to the lady. Way too slow.

Then to the Robinson shopping mall which is a bit further. Where The Inquisitor, it is towards noon, without exception first goes to eat. KFC is a favourite, at MK sometimes, Black Canyon if it's a little hungry because The Inquisitor thinks the portions are too small. And very occasionally, to the native food counter on the top floor where they prepare the strangest dishes, always fun to try.

Going to eat isn't easy. Because the Tops warehouse is the Mecca. You have to go with a full stomach. Because without exception many impulse purchases. Oh, Gruyere cheese. Gouda! Hello, ham! Chocolate!
Real bread. Western, even Belgian, “Julien De Stropere” biscuits. Hoegaarden! Stella Artois!

You then come home with a fully loaded car, the refrigerated products immediately gone, then the goods for the shop, then the rest of the private purchases.
With the prospect of being able to eat western food for days on end, a delicious breakfast without that kind of “Lotus bread”. Ham sandwich. Cheese sandwich. Making hot dogs. Because canned sauerkraut brought along, mustard has not been forgotten either. Making croque monsieur. Delicious real and crispy thin bacon.
Wine, for cooking, but the wife sometimes sip a glass or two of it.

Then a kind of two-day cooking begins. The Inquisitor loves that, because of course, at Isan's pace. With music in the background. The dishes pass him by because he knows that they too can enjoy during the weeks, Western fare goes well with my two ladies in the house. Her daughter in particular loves it. So it's up to them to do the dishes but it's usually not a problem.
And De Inquisitor invested - a long time ago - in a good freezer. That's where the prepared dishes go, a solid stock after two days of fun activity.

De Inquisitor takes for granted that every now and then a dish goes wrong. Better luck next time. Moreover, this is not very wasteful. De Inquisitor now gets just what he wants from all the meat: he cuts away the meat, the fat edges, but not too stingy. And that also goes into the freezer, Isaaners think it's the best: , fat, and , cartilage. And what remains of that later goes to the dogs.
The same ritual for fish and chicken. Also vegetables, because The Inquisitor cuts away everything he finds 'suspicious'. Previously, that went into the trash until the love discovered it. And was angry. 'There's nothing wrong with that!'

So cooking is more than a hobby. It's mouth watering choosing what to eat for the next few days, even weeks. It is immediately a trip, sometimes even a three-day trip if we decide to drive to Udon Thani.
The Inquisitor himself is amazed that anyone who would have told him about fifteen years ago that he would ever prepare his own food would be considered crazy.

To be continued

21 responses to “From Isan life. A sequel (part 3)”

  1. John Mak says up

    For correction it is sakon nakhon instead of sakun

  2. ronnyLatPhrao says up

    Story is top notch. Pleasant to read.

    Anyway, about the attached photo.
    You wouldn't get me into such an “irrigation canal” for the world's money.

    • Jasper van Der Burgh says up

      Mhwa. The irrigation channel at the end of our neighborhood is a direct continuation of the reservoir / waterfall / settling lake to which our water supply is connected. Granted, I don't drink it (my wife and son do, by the way), but good enough for showering/brushing my teeth. So also for a cooling swim!

      • RonnyLatPhrao says up

        No thanks.

        I'm not just talking about so-called "clean" waters or canals, which may look "clean", but you never know what else feels at home there, and you don't immediately notice it.

        If I further see what Thai all jump into ….
        It starts with a discharge from a sewer, a little further on someone is washing, a little further on someone is doing his needs, a little further on people are doing the dishes and then someone is also doing the weekly laundry . We are then at the next sewer discharge and the whole sequence starts again, only the order can be different.
        Meanwhile, you will come across a group of children taking a cooling swim there. With or without school uniform still on…

        The irrigation channel in your neighborhood may still be a “clean channel”, but I didn't see it….

        By the way, I don't drink from our water pipe, let alone drink directly from such a canal.
        I take a shower, of course, but I don't brush my teeth either.
        My wife (and the rest of the family) do use it for brushing their teeth and rinsing their mouth, but I haven't seen them drink it yet either.

        Well, everyone jumps in and swims in, and drinks what they want, of course.
        I only speak for myself.

  3. carpenter says up

    Again great to read and the TopsMarket in Sakon Nakhon's Robbinson is also a favorite here. Tasty baguette and also the cherries when they are on offer (with the "Christmas" they were very expensive, but bought anyway). The cherries are specially bought because our last name is Kers(s)en(s) 😉

  4. peter says up

    Kokkie, you can of course buy a food processor with a meat grinder. Then you can make minced meat of any meat according to your own wishes. For example, minced chicken is now also made in the Netherlands. I think minced chicken is definitely a success, you get chicken ruffles.
    In terms of pork, I can only think of the pork sausage. And as for the fat, this is where most of the (spice) flavor goes. You can of course always fry fat, but then use it anyway.
    Fat minced meat can be fried in its own fat and drain off too much fat.
    good luck cook

  5. LOUISE says up

    Hi Inquisitor,

    Love those stories of what you do or don't do.
    Yes, life is completely different here.
    Also the people, of course, because in terms of character you cannot compare them with any Westerner.
    The stress is gone and if it doesn't come today, then tomorrow, or………….
    A lot different than in the Netherlands, but yes, that was in "working time"

    Indeed, sometimes bite your teeth.
    I had a lot of trouble with it in the beginning, but I only had myself with this, so I'm definitely 90% off that. 🙂
    But you, there are still things where your valves get into a violently accelerated rhythm.

    You are having a great time reading this and we are eagerly awaiting your next installment.
    And when we read all this, everyone knows that none of this was absolutely possible if you had stayed in the Netherlands / Belgium.
    Just all those clothes you had to put on.

    No, lovely here.

    Greetings,
    LOUISE

  6. Rien van de Vorle says up

    This time the story is rather extensive about cooking and the necessary shopping. I read that sometimes you go all the way to the nice town of Udorn Thani. There is indeed everything for sale and a pleasant stay. Since the night market has arisen in the vicinity of the train station, it is busier in the evening. I used to settle in a bicycle lot and let it ride through the city very quietly.
    I once discovered the 'Udon-Supermart'. It was a very nondescript shop with the lights off (when there were no customers) and surprised that the door wasn't locked, I entered a dark room where an elderly woman was knitting! The whole place was full of large freezer cabinets with sliding glass doors, dozens of hams, cheeses, salamis, really everything and only International, all Import, you don't know what you're talking about and it must have been a big investment. That lady had opened the business when many American soldiers were still in Udorn. Then the business went very well, but when I bought my Gouda card there a few years ago, hardly anyone came, she said, but it was actually almost impossible to find even though it was located on the main street. Is she still there? but it would really be worth it and they get a discount because she is so happy to see someone! If you come from Sakhon, the Fly-over at Big C, cross the railway, the next traffic light where you turn right to the bus stop, she was somewhere on the left, pay close attention because otherwise you won't see it. My daughters want me to settle in Phon Charoen with them. That is also really Isaan, although very green because of all Rubber farms. Buengkan is a nice town. Although I don't drink a 'pint' and the view from your terrace isn't 'your of it' either, I would like to visit you when I'm in the area. Especially because I love the 'Flemish'.

    • Fred Jansen says up

      It is still there but with a very limited assortment. Often closed but with phone numbers on the windows and arrive within 5 minutes if you call.

  7. TH.NL says up

    Again a nice story that immediately reminds me when I am in our apartment in Chiang Mai.
    I therefore invariably have to cook "Dutch" for my partner, but also for the family. Macaroni, Dutch fried rice, etc. Very simple dishes, but they love them. We always buy minced beef at Tops because I don't need that muddy pork mince from Tesco Lotus. Almost everything I need can be found at Tops, Tesco and Big C. Leek, however, is a problem. I've never been able to find that anywhere. People always arrive with a kind of large spring onions, but that is clearly not a leek. I enjoy cooking every now and then and especially when I see that they enjoy it. And washing up? No, I can't even do that because they want to give something back. Sweet right?

    • LOUISE says up

      Hello Th,

      Leek at Makro or Foodland.
      Makro also has delicious minced meat.

      Kookze.

      LOUISE

    • bert napa says up

      TH.NL

      Leeks can be found in the macro under the English name leek are sometimes difficult to recognize as leeks because they are very thin.

      Greetings bert mappa

    • Jasper van Der Burgh says up

      In Trat there is indeed leek at the Makro, but only in large bundles. Not really interesting for a private individual. However, sometimes my wife manages to find it in the market!

  8. Gerrit Bokhove says up

    dear inquisitor,
    You can write really beautifully, woolly.
    only this time a huge vapor came towards me .
    I call that vapor: the arrogance of the west.
    look, I think the isaan food is based on glutinous rice with a little bit of it, in short, that philosophy is correct.
    i have been coming to the isaan (udon) for quite some time people really cant afford macaroni, yes, when i am around but i think it has to do with that i have pension.
    in short: let those people just eat their isaan food, I don't do that sometimes either. (you should

    well what if you come from the west, maybe we are too spoiled.

  9. Jacob says up

    Great story again, because it refers to different places where people are Western
    can obtain food, I hope it is allowed to bring something to your attention, depending on where you are traveling to or from, there is a restaurant in Kam ta kla which is run by a friendly German and his wife, apart from Western meals this man is specialized in making all kinds of sausages, judging by the hanging certificates on the wall, he is a: Meistermetzger, or qualified butcher, we live 42 kilometers away, but make it our regular purchasing trip, bread is also freshly baked on site, so after a pleasant meal we return home satisfied with all kinds of sausages and bread, don't see it as advertising, but as help for expats in Isaan who sometimes want something other than papaya pok pok for breakfast.

    • Ruudje says up

      Next month I will also be visiting the management area of ​​Kamtakla for a while. May I ask what this German is called and where his restaurant is located? I would like to visit his restaurant.

      • Jacob says up

        concerns previously mentioned restaurant:
        Georg and Supaporn Mayer
        137 moo 11
        Kham ta kla
        47250 Sakon Nakhon
        tel 082-1181598
        during the rainy season, closed on Mondays

  10. John VC says up

    Today we drive to Kamtakla in search of that butcher! We pass on all the information! This seems to be a very pleasant find!

    • Henk says up

      On Facebook: Khamtakla German Restaurant

      Along road 222

      From Udon Thani on the left, there is a small sign along the road, at the beginning of the street: German restaurant with an arrow.

  11. John VC says up

    Just got back from Khamta Kla.
    We were well received! Immediately served a piece of self-baked bread with some deliciously prepared sausages to taste together.
    He only has western menus on his card.
    The data:
    Mr Mayer
    137 M00 11
    082-1181598
    He always has a stock, but if you call him a few days in advance, he will make what you would like to order.
    Hopefully I can be of service to you!
    Jan

  12. Edward says up

    http://www.isaanexpats.com/2012/german-restaurant-isaan-thailand/


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