The captivating decay of Phra Nakhon Khiri in Phetchaburi
If King Rama 4 were walking around now, he immediately ordered a thorough overhaul of the matter. The dilapidated state of the buildings would be a thorn in his side.
Phra Nakhon Khiri, the former palace of Rama 4 and Rama 5 on the tops of three mountains Phetchaburi, has been a national monument since 1935, but apparently since then no one has realized that the tropical conditions necessitate regular maintenance.
The roofs are leaking, the walls are moldy all over, the woodwork is pulverizing. And yet the complex is and remains impressive, perhaps even thanks to its decay. It is therefore easier to put yourself in the shoes of the former royal residents in the second half of the nineteenth century. The palace dates from 1859 and is built on the westernmost peak. Wat Phra Kaew, built in the style of the Bangkok example, stands on the eastern peak, with the main stupa Phra That Chom Phet in the center.
There is now a cable car to the palace, but 150 years ago people made the trip to the top on foot. There are two 'cable cars' that can pass each other in an ingenious way. There are no safety features, so watch the kids. Of course, there was no air conditioning in those days, but there was always a fresh wind on top of the mountain. The walls are almost a meter thick, not only to keep out the enemy, but also the heat.
The most endearing thing in the palace is the bathroom, equipped with a zinc bathtub, where the king undoubtedly had his generous body sponged. Slaves and servants fetched the water from far below. In the bedroom you can walk around the four-poster bed. The cabinets contain dozens of ewers and associated attributes. There is no question of modern comfort. The German duke who lived here with his wife as a guest of the royal house must have felt very lonely and abandoned at times. The furniture may be 'European', but Ikea knows better how people can sit and lie comfortably.
A remarkable building is the observatory, where King Rama 4 watched the stars. The equipment has long since disappeared, but we still have a fantastic view over the lanes of Phetchaburi.
This national museum is open from 09.00am to 16.00pm. The cable car costs 40 baht, admission to the museum and adjacent buildings costs 150 baht. That contribution could best be used to refurbish the complex.
Really worth a visit. You can also go up on foot, but that is not recommended because of the aggressive monkeys.
If you have a Thai driver's license or Tabian job, the entrance is only 50 Baht cable car included.
For a building worth restoring, I would rather pay the Farang price if it helps.
I've seen it from afar a few times when I go to Bangkok. My wife doesn't like it, old and dilapidated and she says she has been there once as a child.
But I think it has a charm of its own, even if it is dilapidated…. I love old buildings.
Walking up or down is very nice, and beautiful. You keep the monkeys at a distance with a stick.
The city of Phetchaburi is also very worthwhile.
It is clear that buildings here in the tropics - and often much more badly put together - need more and faster maintenance. Whether it was meant to last forever is also quite a question mark. Yet even here in BKK, many older buildings owned by the Crown Property Buro (located in Thewet) are being renovated at a fairly rapid pace and sometimes also converted for other purposes. A program is currently running to clear everything along the entire Ratchdamnern Avenue (that very large busy road near Khao Sarn with, among other things, the Monument der democrazy) and then rebuild it in its stately state. So I wouldn't give up too quickly on this one. I have no idea if there is a program of what/where/when somewhere.
Old article… Quite a bit has been restored in recent years. Been there at the end of 2018.
The monkeys are not too bad as long as you don't show them anything to drink or eat.