Chiang Rai and Cycling……(8)

The greeting……

Have a nice day. Who wouldn't want to be welcomed like this after a strenuous ride through Chiang Rai's green lanes?

Just now, propelled by the irrepressible desire for coffee, I cycled up the terrain of Baan Mai Praimeka after a small 40 km of stairs and the greeting is shouted at me from a colorful mural on one of the bungalows that are rented out there.

I am at Lake Mae Tak in Tambon Don Sila, in Wiang Chai district, southeast of Chiang Rai city. Baan Mai Praimeka is the only place on this beautiful lake – and in the wider area – where I can get my caffeine levels in order, and it's a beautiful place too. In addition to food and drinks, you can also spend the night in a bungalow or in a luxury tent.

Beautiful view of Mae Tak from behind the coffee or meal

It is only shortly after nine o'clock, the business has only just opened, but fortunately the coffee machine is already ready to go. 'Americano, Ron' is my order, and I choose a piece of cake that smiles seductively at me from a refrigerated display case. Those extra calories will melt like snow in a tropical summer sun on the way back…

The Mae Tak (reservation) lake is beautiful, but the water level is, as is the case with most lakes and rivers, much too low for the time of year. Also lower than last year around this time, while the past rainy season was above average wet, and much lower than on my first visit here, about three years ago. The pedal boats and boats that are rented out are now drying out idly many tens of meters from the water's edges.

Shortly after sunrise, in the morning haze, it can look like this

I enjoy the view of the water and the mountains across the street from my coffee. The silence is deafening, there are hardly any buildings along the lake and the road I came on - the only one near the lake - is at least a hundred meters away from the lake. There is no road at all on the other side; just an unpaved track, bumpy and potholed – I know because I once did a full loop around the lake on my MTB. Once was enough!

After coffee back to Chiang Rai, with a different, slightly longer route in mind. When I leave, the mural again wishes me 'have a nice day', so not much can go wrong today…

Wat Santi Rattan Wararam, on a hilltop near the lake

Via the unpaved driveway back to the road; I actually have to turn right, but I first drive a bit to the left, where I arrive at the south side of the lake. At some point the asphalt ends on this side. Before that happens, on the right side of the road, on a hilltop, is another recently built temple, Wat Santi Rattan Wararam. I look around there for a while and then turn around, back to Chiang Rai.

I have already seen the first six kilometers of the way back on the way there, but then I turn right onto an initially paved road, which changes into unpaved after a few kilometers, which takes me past a huge banana plantation. Eventually I arrive at the beginning of a beautiful cycle path that leads me over a distance of more than 10 km along – and sometimes through – Nong Luang.
Nong Luang is a natural lake with underlying springs that keep the water at a reasonable level, although that also changes with the seasons.

A 10 km long cycle path runs along – and through – Nong Luang

Even now it is lower than in June last year, the last time I was here. It is a shallow lake, in many places more of a 'wetland' area. Lots of fish, lots of birds that flock to it. Herons, large numbers of storks: especially very early in the morning there is a lot to see here for those interested.
Silence here too: apart from the birds, a single hut and here and there a buffalo, no sign of life whatsoever. I have never encountered other cyclists and/or tourists here, but once a Frenchman living in the area on a quad who was taking pictures.

Get off the (cycling) path for a nice picture of Nong Luang. 20 seconds earlier there were still a dozen storks in the water, but they did not want to pose, unfortunately ……

After more than 10 km, the cycle path ends just as abruptly as it started, although at this point I do not encounter an unpaved road, but a neatly asphalted one. It takes me a little further along the water and crosses the point where a bridge is being built right through the lake, as part of a new road. I had seen it before, but again I shake my head in disbelief that something like this can apparently be done here without any problems: you would think that such a special area is protected in one way or another, but apparently that is not the case.

Via Wiang Chai I cycle back to my base in Chiang Rai. 84 km on the clock, a thick layer of dust on the bike and a grin on my face that cannot be brushed away: the harvest of another beautiful morning in Thailand.

Into the pool this afternoon!

This is what Nong Luang looks like shortly after the rainy season