Wichaichan (Photo: Wikimedia)

Recently I came across a report on the unsurpassed newspaper archive site www.delpher.nl of the festivities surrounding the cremation of the (last) viceroy of Siam, Wichaichan, who had died on August 28, 1885.

The original article appeared on May 24, 1887 (the cremation had already taken place in 1886) in the weekly magazine 'De Constitution', a Dutch-language newspaper widely read in America at the time, which was published in 'Holland', Michigan, US.

I thought it would be nice to share this historical image with the readers, so I've taken the liberty of making it a bit more readable by adjusting the spelling to the current one, without further violating the original text. It is abundantly clear that the task of this journalist at the time necessarily consisted more of sketching images, in the absence of affordable photos and film, than of political interpretation of the events, but that only makes it more fun.
For me there was a little sting - as often - in the tail: I have no idea what is meant by 'throwing the ashes into the “Man-Arms” '. Maybe someone can fix that.

The burning of the corpse of a king in Siam

In the great, blessed, and rich land of the white elephants, the kingdom of Siam, according to ancient tradition, a second reigned in the capital and king's city besides the real king, with almost the same dignities and rights as the first.
With the death of the second king, more than a year and a half ago, this double system of regulation ended.
In Siam, the custom of burning corpses has been prevalent for a long time. The burial ceremony of this second king was held with very special pomp.

For months now hundreds of slaves and coolis had been working without delay on the "watt" built separately for this purpose. It was erected in tasteful style and form in gigantic proportions opposite the palace of the reigning king and was connected to it by a long corridor. To the left of this was a large theater, to the right towards the side of the free square a long tent, in which the gifts of the king, which were distributed on this occasion, were displayed, to the right of this tent, facing the street, was a stand in front of Europeans and foreigners, in the middle a very tasteful pavilion for the king. Twelve more theaters had been built in the free square, behind these so many towers about 100 feet high, the pointed roofs of which were decorated and hung with numerous lanterns and ribbons.

Wichaichan (Photo: Wikimedia)

The main building, the "Watt", is masterfully executed, the center spire reaching the height of 150 feet. Seen from the outside, it resembled a great dice, which had a tower-like forebuilding in each corner and a huge portal on each side. The buildings were mostly built of bamboos, the roofs covered with colorfully painted bamboo mats. The many curls, scrolls and other ornaments, such as the style entails, were masterfully executed, so that one could not look down without admiration on the Siamese architecture, which had been executed with so few resources. In front of the portals stood, as it were, gatekeepers two large statues of gods about 15 feet high, which represented dragons. The interior of the "watt" was in the shape of a cross and was in the courtyard in such a way that the entrances corresponded to the four doors.
In the center of the courtyard stood an altar glittering in gold. The burning would take place on this altar. The walls were hung with expensive tapestries, and numerous chandeliers hung from the attics, which illuminated the interior with rainbow colors through thousands of cut glass prisms.

The ceremonies themselves started July 10th; they were opened with the usual games. These games are innocent and started with a big elaborate tapestry of juggling and clowning tricks; green monkeys with red heads appear, dragons, bears, crocodiles, in short, all possible and impossible creatures. When it starts to get dark, shadow plays are performed on large stretched pieces of linen and then a clean firework is set off. At nine o'clock the king left the festival grounds. During the games, from four great pulpits, in each of which stood four priests, small green orange apples were thrown among the people; each of these fruits contained a silver coin. The king himself also throws such fruits among his entourage, but these contain numbers, which are taken out and exchanged in the tent for one of the gifts, among which are very precious objects. The people then go to the theatres, which continue their play until late in the morning. The plays often last a week and have the most terrible subject matter, murder and manslaughter, executions, court hearings, all performed in the gaudiest, most exaggerated costumes and enlivened by a terrible musical alarm.

On the second day the transfer of the corpse of the second king from his palace to the "watt" took place. For more than a year the deceased had been kept seated in a large gilded urn, during which time the flag had flown at half-mast on his palace. Very early thousands of people had come to witness this rare spectacle. By 10 o'clock in the morning the procession had been drawn up, the front of which had already stopped for the “watt”, while the last were still waiting in the palace for a sign from the king, in order to then be able to move.

The king was therefore not long in coming and appeared right on time. He was carried in a heavily gilded sedan chair by 20 slaves in costly clothing, on his right walked a slave with a huge sunshade, on the left one with a large fan. On his feet sat two of his children, a little princess and a prince, and two other children below his feet. The king followed the dignitaries with their slaves and servants; then in a palanquin, carried by six slaves, the crown prince. The latter followed, in four palanquins, children of the king, for whom slaves carried all kinds of objects that the little ones needed. Then came three beautiful horses, led by slaves on red long reins. The procession was closed by a section of the bodyguard and soldiers.

As the king approached, the Siamese prostrated themselves and saluted by raising their hands three times to their ruler, who nodded his head in thanks. Arriving at the little pavilion, he dismounted from his palanquin and, surrounded by the princes, sat down on a raised seat. He was dressed in black, wearing the ribbon of his house order, a very dignified person with a tan complexion and black moustache, and between 35 and 40 years old. After lighting a cigar and saluting the retinue, he signaled for the start of the procession proper. It was opened by 17 banners of red silk; they were carried by slaves, walking in the shape of a triangle. A regiment of soldiers followed them. The regimental music played Chopin's death march. The uniform consisted of blue jackets, long white trousers and an English helmet. The men were barefoot, their marching made a comic impression on the Europeans.

When the troops marched past the king and were positioned opposite him, they presented the rifle, while the music played the Siamese national anthem. A number of animals appeared as the second group in the procession, first a stuffed rhinoceros pulled by 20 slaves on a two-foot high chariot, then two costly decorated elephants, then two beautifully caparisoned horses, finally a large row of artfully formed dragons, snakes, etc. One can hardly describe the wealth developed here, the great variety of colors. Behind the animal group came the priests, bareheaded and barefoot, clad in white robes and accompanied by fanfare players in gaudy costumes. This was followed by a chariot drawn by eight ponies and 40 slaves, a true masterpiece of woodcarving, of gigantic size; it looked like six or seven ships superimposed, the top of which had something of a gondola. In it sat an old man wrapped in light yellow silk​—the chief priest.

When the chariot reached the "watt", the high priest came down by means of a ladder and saluted the king by raising his hand three times. He then entered the interior of the "watt" with the entire clergy to bless the corpse. Meanwhile the procession was continued, followed by another 100 drummers, a corps of buglers, among which were slaves who wore all kinds of religious symbols, all in most fantastic clothing. Now followed a second chariot, even more beautiful, larger and more tasteful than the first, on which, under a canopy of thrones, was the remains of the king in a golden urn. When they came to the "watt", the urn was removed under the direction of a priest, placed on a beautifully decorated palanquin and carried in the "watt". Behind the sedan chair walked the sons, servants and slaves of the deceased. The corpse was placed on the altar. After the priest had properly set it up by 12 o'clock, the king entered the "watt". In the evening the people were also allowed inside.

The third holiday passed without public festivities; in the "watt" the preparatory measures for the combustion were taken.

On Sunday, July 14, the solemn burning finally took place. All envoys and consuls, as well as a number of other Europeans, were invited. After the guests had appeared in large numbers in the tent, tea, coffee, ice cream, etc. were presented. The princes meanwhile distributed flowers made of fragrant sandalwood and wax candles, which had to be placed under the urn.

Towards 6 o'clock the king appeared, in black, richly decorated with ceremonial ribbons, and greeted the guests. He, too, was given flowers and a burning wax candle, whereupon he went to the altar and set fire to the precious wax and wood mass. At the same time, the lamentation of the wives and slaves of the deceased resounded. The smoke and the insufferable smell soon forced the crowd out; the king resumed his place in the tent, and the games then began again. A large fireworks display concluded the holiday. Thousands of lanterns, colorful lanterns on the towers, and Bengal fire lit up the festival grounds, and when the full moon appeared in the sky around nine o'clock, people thought they had moved into “One Thousand and One Nights”.

The next day, the king's ashes were collected, without any special celebration, and kept in a golden urn.

The sixth and final holiday in honor of the deceased was concluded by casting the ashes into the Man-Arms. At the head of his naval troops, which blew an old German sailor's march, the king returned to his palace.

– Reposted message in memory of † Frans Amsterdam –

5 responses to “Old newspaper article cremation King of Siam in 1886”

  1. eric kuijpers says up

    Thanks for this account.

    The dual kingship was an excellent solution for the many tasks that the monarch (with absolute power) then had and that was - as far as I know - unparalleled in the Western world.

    Man-Arms means nothing to me but it could be misunderstood for Menam, Mae Nam, 'mother water' as the great rivers such as the Mekong and Chao Phraya are called. But I'm happy to give my opinion for a better one.

    • Tino Kuis says up

      I agree with Erik that Man-Arms stands for Mae Nam, the Thai name for 'river'. The rituals around the Thai kings are often of Hindu origin, influenced by the Khmer Empire (Cambodia)

      “A third option, which is seemingly becoming more popular these days, is called “loi angkarn” which means the floating or scattering of ashes over the water. However, they might keep some relics, like pieces of bone, in the shrine at home. It is not really a Buddhist tradition as it has been adapted from Hinduism where they often scatter ashes in the Ganges River. Some Thai people believe that floating the ashes of their loved ones in a river or in the open sea will help wash away their sins but also help them go more smoothly up to heaven. It doesn't matter where you do this, but if you are in the Bangkok and Samut Prakan area then an auspicious place is the mouth of the Chao Phraya River at Paknam where I live.
      http://factsanddetails.com/southeast-asia/Thailand/sub5_8b/entry-3217.html

      Mâe is 'mother' and náam is 'water'. But 'mâe' is also a title, a bit like our 'Father Drees'. It occurs in many place names. Mâe tháp (tháp is army) means (also male) 'army commander' . In these cases it is better to translate mâe' as 'great, beloved, honored': mae nam is then the 'great, beloved water'.

  2. Peter from Zwolle says up

    Nice to read.
    Like so many beautiful pieces, on your blog.

    Gr. P.

  3. Arie says up

    Nice piece to read about the history.

  4. Hein Vissers says up

    Very interesting story, some more insight into the colorful and impressive history of the Thai empire. Thanks for publishing…


Leave a comment

Thailandblog.nl uses cookies

Our website works best thanks to cookies. This way we can remember your settings, make you a personal offer and you help us improve the quality of the website. read more

Yes, I want a good website