Cycling through the Bangkok jungle
Last Sunday I wanted to go cycling in Bangkok. What??? Yes, cycling in Bangkok. Most think I'm crazy, but few know that in the middle of Bangkok there is a piece of untouched nature where you can cycle perfectly - Phra Pradaeng.
If you're ever on it Thai If you have been to the countryside, you have a good idea of what you will find there. It is only 5 km away from the heart of Sukhumvit and it is a nice adventure. Several organizations organize interesting cycling tours through this area, and while this is the best choice for tourists, I prefer to go out on my own and discover new things on my own. Every trip brings new experiences. Although I prefer to ride a road bike myself, this trip is more suitable for mountain bikes and 'regular' bikes.
Boat and monks
I leave from Sukhumvit around 8.15. The (still) empty roads of Bangkok make it good cycling. The first stop is at Wat Klong Toei where I buy a ticket for 20 baht to cross the Chao Phraya river (if you are familiar with Bangkok - coming from Rama 4, take Kasem Rat, at the end of this turn a small right down the alley just before you reach the harbor area (there are some food carts, a bus station and a 7-11 here). Nice to cross by boat ... no more than a few centimeters above the water you cross the waterway of the commercial ships that look gigantic from my position.
My fellow passengers often consist of temple goers, market goers, monks and the occasional chicken. After a few minutes on the water, I reach the shore of Phra Pradaeng and can continue the bike ride. First stock up on some water and 'kluay tak' (dried banana with honey) for energy during the ride. There is a small shop here at the pier, bicycles are also rented here. By the way, they are in mediocre condition, nice for a short 10-20 Km ride, but if you are a bit of a serious cyclist, you better go with the organizations listed below - they do have good bikes available.
'hello mister'
After about 15 km I stop at one of the many temples on the river. A little break and time for some spring rolls. In Phra Pradaeng you can go everywhere for food and drinks. People usually don't speak English, but I am regularly greeted by children shouting 'Hello mister'. There are dogs and cats everywhere. Moped taxi drivers keep an eye on the pier, waiting for the next boat to hopefully deliver new passengers. Monks come and go, others are fishing. How good life is.
A little further on is a market. No signage, not even in Thai. I discovered the market once following a large group of excited Thais. If you see a large group of excited Thais there is usually a market or food involved, and often a combination of both. In this case, that turned out to be the case. Great tasty pork from the barbecue (moo ping) and juice from 'gac fruit'. All together only about 50 baht.
Jungle
After following one of the main roads through Phra Pradaeng for a while, I decide to dive into the jungle via one of the concrete elevated paths that can be found everywhere here. These paths are quite narrow, and I often have to avoid dogs, pedestrians and mopeds. They connect the houses here with the main road and by cycling here you get a good idea of how people live here. Most of these trails end at the Chao Phraya River, which loops around Phra Pradaeng like a noose.
If you go with a group tour you don't need any navigation aids, but a GPS or at least a map and compass are useful if you go alone. The area is not so big that you can get hopelessly lost, but especially when you go on the paths covered by the jungle, you quickly lose your sense of direction. I end up again at a temple on the river, play with 5 newborn kittens, and climb back on the bike to continue the journey.
Bicycle tours
I continue the drive home by following the river, cross the river again via a busy bridge, make a detour via Chinatown, and head for Sukhumvit via Lumphini park. That last part of the trip is not really recommended unless you are an experienced cyclist; count on typical heavy traffic moving with 'Bangkok style', an abundance of exhaust fumes and zigzags through stationary traffic. It's easier to turn around once you're about to leave Phra Pradaeng.
Organizations that organize bicycle tours in Bangkok include Spice Roads, Recreational Bangkok Biking and Co van Kessel.
Have fun!
Source: www.TravelandLeisureAsia.com
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