A hand kiss in Kamphaeng Phet

By François Nang Lae
Posted in Sights, History, Travel stories, thai tips
Tags:
November 28 2021

Wat Chang Rob temple in Kamphaeng Phet Historical Park

Those looking for the rich Thai history soon end up in the old capitals of Ayutthaya and Sukhothai. After we rented a car for the first part of the holiday last year and that we really liked it, we have already reserved the car in Bangkok at the airport for this holiday.

Due to an appointment we have to be in Lampang on day 3, so we have time for two overnight stays. Ayutthaya is too close to Bangkok, we already visited Sukhothai in 2009, so we look for an alternative and run into Kamphaeng Phet. This city is located about 80 kilometers southwest of Sukhothai and, according to the information we could find, has an equally rich history. In terms of distance, it is also nicely halfway.

The choice of hotels and guesthouses is more limited than in Sukhothai. We don't find a really cheap place, but eventually we settle down in the P.Paradise hotel for 1000 Bath per night. For that we have a very spacious room, which is also lavishly decorated. Parrots as doorknobs, frogs with umbrellas in their hands on the cupboard, a real display cabinet with dolls in it, and the towels artfully folded like elephants.

The garden is no different. Everywhere dolls that are most reminiscent of a Thai version of Die Mainzelmänchen. Stone sheep and even a windmill. An enthusiast has been at work here, that much is clear.

Khlong Lan Waterfall in Kamphaeng Phet

Kamphaeng Phet is highly recommended. Like both other cities, it has an extensive historical temple complex. However, it is much more decayed than the other two. Added to the fact that the temple ruins are scattered here in a forest area, that makes it very special. The distance you have to travel to see everything is considerable, but you can be driven around or, like us lazy tourists, have your own transport with you. On the Saturday we were there it was wonderfully quiet and we had all the peace and space to look and photograph everywhere at our leisure.

For farang, the city is an experience for more reasons than the historical places. You don't just view the sights here, you are one yourself. Kamphaeng Phet turns out to be so non-touristic that as a tall white man you are constantly addressed, smiled at and sometimes secretly, but more often openly used as a background for a selfie. I estimate that I now figure on a few dozen Thai Facebook pages.

Besides the timid Thai who shoot their pictures from a distance, there are also some daredevils who ask us if they can take a picture with us. Because we regularly photograph people ourselves, we can of course not refuse. That is how we are now also in many Thai family albums, in a close embrace with the owner of that album.

Highlight of it all occurred on an ordinary street where we were just looking for a place to eat. “Where you from”, he shouted. “Holland” I called back. He came over to me and saying “I luv Holland” he grabbed my hand and gave it a smacking kiss. “Wow, khopkhunkrap,” I responded pleasantly surprised. Although there were many -in my eyes- more attractive people walking around to get a spontaneous hand kiss from, that doesn't exactly happen to me every day, so I just took it as a compliment.

On the morning of departure, a somewhat stocky Thai walked over to the veranda in front of our room, smiling broadly. “Hello, nice to meet you, sorry I did not welcome you before but I was away some days. I'm the owner, where you from. Ahhhh Holland, I've been there 4 months, Rotterdam, I love your reclaimed land, I love the system that you can bring empty bottles back and get paid for it, do you like my hotel? I did a course in Rotterdam, landscape design, I got a diploma.” Yes, this hotel has been decorated by a professional. Good that it was mentioned.

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