Ban Chuen Beach, a paradise for peace seekers
Sometimes there are certain places that you have a nice feeling about, or other places that you hate, perhaps completely wrongly. Such a place that does not appeal to me at all, and perhaps that is unjustified, is Trat, for example. However, you cannot miss this place if you want to visit Koh Chang, for example.
From a distant past I remember very well my first visit to Koh Chang, the second largest island of Thailand Thailand. After a long bus ride you ended up in Trat, where you had to stay at that time because the crossing from Bangkok to Koh Chang, for example, could not be achieved in one day. The only hotels of significance was a bleak hotel, at the time close to the final destination of the bus. In short, I have suffered -somewhat exaggerated- a trauma from it and a burning hatred of Trat.
Tourism on Koh Chang was still in its infancy and electricity was taboo. In the evenings you had a kerosene lamp at your disposal and it was a funny sight, but also very enchanting, to have people go to a restaurant on the beach can be seen walking, with the kerosene lamps carried along creating a romantic atmosphere. In certain places, a generator was available where you could charge your shaver between five and six in the evening.
Technical progress
After years, Koh Chang still got electricity supply and the island literally went into a 'flow' gear. Investors, including the discredited ex-prime minister Thaksin, saw potential in the island and, year after year, the buildings hit mercilessly.
The tiny barely passable dirt roads were transformed into paved roads and meager accommodations demolished to make way for capital resorts. For many, the fun was over, Koh Chang was no longer that paradise island for them where you could still find peace. The only thing that didn't change in my eyes was the 'crossing place' Trat. In my eyes, Trat remained just Trat, a desolate place without allure, where there is nothing, absolutely nothing to experience. Even that gray dreary hotel has remained.
Light point
Suddenly a story by Hans Bos appears on Thailandblog with the title 'Knowing is eating'. The place Trat comes up again in his story, surprisingly for me. It is about eating good fish on the headland of Thailand, which extends behind Trat to an extremely narrow strip to the border with Cambodia. To eat delicious fresh fish you have to be on BanChuen Beach in the resort of the same name, is his advice. So I move just before the center of Trat via the 318 on my way to the beach of Ban Chuen, which is sixty kilometers away.
On the way there you will come across a number of beaches with the necessary resorts. The owner, Joseph of the Chuen Beach Resort, nor his wife Payear, are not exactly fast advertising people, because when you arrive at the exit to the beach in question, the name of the resort is nowhere to be seen. The Panan Resort is signposted, so we follow the road there. It turns out to be a good bet, because the Ban Chuen Beach Resort is right next to it. Neat houses for a fraction of the price for the same accommodation on Koh Chang or other resorts that you encounter on the road to Ban Chuen.
Not for everyone
The slogan of my favorite 'Jazz Pit' in Soi 5 in Pattaya, 'It's not for everybody' also applies to the Ban Chuen Resort. Like the Jazz Pit, this resort is not a good destination for everyone. Do not expect any entertainment options or a variety of bars and/or restaurants on this beach. What you can find here is a beautiful, almost deserted beach and a lot of peace. Take a wonderful healthy walk on the beach, where you will hardly meet anyone and enjoy a heavenly sunset and slowly exaggerating beautiful clouds from your lazy beach chair. The sound of the waves rolling onto the beach would have inspired Johan Sebastiaan Bach, if he had stayed here, to create a unique composition.
Hat LekAmphoe Klong Yai, Changwat Trat (Editorial Credit: pemastockpic/Shutterstock.com)
Small trips
Although the entire headland to Cambodia has little to offer beyond the already painted possibilities, a few small trips are possible. For example, drive to the border at Hat Lek and visit the Border Market there. On both sides of the road you will see the necessary stalls and shops. On the right side you walk to the sea and of course you will find many offers on the narrow street that you can hardly resist.
Watches, mobile phones, bags of the well-known brands, real or counterfeit, and many other desirable or not desirable items. Walk, almost below the last road to the right, and take a look at the unhygienic processing of shellfish. Let the meager housing work on you and enjoy the cheerfully playing children.
On the way to the border, don't forget to follow the turn to Chalalai and Kalapungha Port to where the fishing vessels returning from the sea land the catch. Walk both right and left along the quay and watch the unloading and sorting of the fish. Don't forget to bring your camera and be there on time between ten and eleven. You will then see the largest fishing port in this region, where the vans and trucks are ready to transport the fish as quickly as possible when the fish is unloaded.
On the way back you can drive into the town of Khlong Yai. A certain street leads to the sea and you continue on a narrow path with the shallow entrance route for the smaller fishing boats on the left. Compared to Chalalai Port, this port is a dwarf, where mainly shrimps and small crabs are landed. Judging by the state of the neglected houses, it is not a lot of money. Many houses on both sides of the sea entrance, ravaged by wind and sea, are about to collapse. Apparently the proceeds from the catch are insufficient to restore things.
Summarizing
After reading this short impression, you can judge for yourself whether the peace and quiet of Ban Chuen Beach appeals to you, or whether you prefer a more global beach. Following the Thai word usage: 'It's up to you'.
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