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Home » Reader question » Reader question: How to treat the soil before pouring cement?
Dear readers,
I live in Thailand (Dan Khun Thot/Nakhon Ratchasima) for a large part of the year. Now I want to pour a large part of cement around my house.
My question: The soil is quite clayey and when it rains small puddles form here and there. What is the best way to treat this soil before pouring cement? Do I first have to make the clay soil fine and possibly mix it with sand or are there other options?
Thanks in advance for the responses.
Regards,
Quillaume
Editors: Do you have a question for the readers of Thailandblog? Use it contact form..
Of course the first question is what do you want to do with the concrete???
But around the house…
Throw sand there, but mainly let them throw a piece of good plastic at the bottom and of course a wickerwork 20 mm is fine, 20 cm thick layer and it can last a long time
In the Netherlands, a layer of clean sand of approx. 100-150 mm is usually first poured and leveled. On top of this a work floor of 50 mm thickness of lean concrete. On this work floor the reinforcement can be set, the edge box set and the floor can be poured. Think of the slope in the floor. But I think there are quite a few good contractors around that can do that for you, no?
Dear, Do level, set the edge box of eg 12 cm high, apply plastic foil, apply a shrink reinforcement of construction steel mats Around 6 mm-150 × 150, place this reinforcement on adjusting blocks of approximately 3 cm. Filling the whole with concrete (from the plant) can also be done by yourself with 6 bags of cement/m3. Or keep a ratio of 3 wheelbarrows (80 litres) of gravel, 2 wheelbarrows of sand. 1 wheelbarrow cement. Finish the whole evenly and smooth with the trowel. If you do this well, you can also stick ceramic tiles on it later. Oh and a sand bed is not necessary. Can only wash away in heavy rain hence.
Good luck,
Regards Anthony
When the floor is ready and starts to harden, keep it wet with a sprayer or cover with plastic, especially if it is in the sun, otherwise you will get shrinkage cracks.
I would do it even simpler (worked in concrete for 40 years!)
All around wooden planks, height does not matter.
No reinforcement required.
Have concrete delivered and poured in, relatively soft concrete.
Soft concrete is stronger and hardens flatter, about 15 cm thick.
To be on the safe side: a little chicken wire in it, but it is not necessary.
Antonius
Fine explanation.
I also did this, but concrete from central, well mixed and very strong.
A tractor drove over it 2 days later.
I also live in Phayao with red clay soil, but it is compact enough and it is normal for water to remain on it. Have a construction company and a layer of sand of 5 cm is enough concrete mat in it and I have built a road that they drive over with trucks. Have slots cut into it and filled with pitch better protected against cracks. Costs 4 meters wide per linear meter 2000 thb all inclusive
Hi Quillome,
Clay soil is no problem to pour concrete (no cement), I do have a question what is the purpose of this concrete? will there be anything of great weight on it or is it just to walk over and set up a table and chair? so very distinguished is what it should serve.
It is therefore not the case that the thicker the concrete the better it is, everything depends on the use, calculate 2500 kg per m3 of concrete, then it will soon become very heavy.
If the concrete does not have to bear a great weight, a concrete thickness of 10 cm is more than sufficient, but you do lay a reinforcement net in the middle (available on a roll, thickness 3 mm) when leveling the foundation before pouring the concrete, it is necessary to make a trench dig at the edge of the concrete to be poured so that it is still 30 cm deep so that there is certainly no water or leaching, vermin also likes to crawl under it. so the slot around 30cmx30cm is more than sufficient.
If there is a reasonable weight on the concrete, for example you place something very heavy on or in the future walls, then the minimum concrete thickness is still 20 cm with a double reinforcement mesh, 5 cm from the bottom and 5 cm from the top, the slots on the outsides should be deep enough to reach hard bearing soil, but if yours is clayey then a 60cm depth will suffice so trenches 60cm x 30cm wide.
It is best to take a concrete with 350 kg of cement per cubic meter then it is certainly strong and hard enough, here in Thailand they dare to be quite stingy with the cement, the granulates (stones) that are in it can simply be taken as standard, do not have to be special to be fine or large.
You can choose whether or not you put a plastic under it, especially with clay soil it is not necessary because in most cases the plastic is placed to prevent the concrete from drying out too quickly by pouring it on a porous or sandy soil; it is often thought that this serves to stop water, but this is usually not the case, a decent concrete is completely waterproof from 10 cm.
the price of a cubic meter of concrete costs around 2400 baht here, so if it has to be 10 cm thick you can pour 10m2 with it, count the slots separately otherwise you will have too little.
success with it
Hello Guillaume, we poured a lot of concrete last year. Initially I thought it would all work out, but it turned out quite well. The Thais simply placed formwork on the (red) ground. I did indicate that dilation must be provided every 7 to 9 meters (a softwood plank is sufficient: it will rot out on its own or not, but the purpose is to allow the concrete slabs to move without breaking). The concrete was approximately 10 cm thick. My request to add reinforcement was not responded to satisfactorily: a kind of weak mesh was supplied, mesh size 10×10 cm, wire diameter 4mm, which was not installed from the underlying bottom with spacer blocks because it was too weak. I have had it done and several heavy loads have already driven over it and it is holding up well. The concrete cost us THB 1700 per cubic meter. When it was finished, we saw a lot of difference in the dedication of the professionals. The oldies did best with sloping, thickness control, sloping and a kind of butterflying. It should not dry too quickly: keeping it wet for the first 48 hours improves the hardness. Funny incidental: the floor of the dog kennel was neatly laid out with height sticks to monitor the thickness. While taking a break, the leader of the group simply started tapping all the sticks with the hammer while chatting. That makes the concrete layer thinner than agreed! No one noticed. When I told him not to, there was a sheepish grin. This was the second time I saw them messing up, they didn't have to come back again.