If you are not a follower of The Prophet or at least a prophet, then you know that life is just an illusion. By structuring it and embedding it in cultural frameworks, we believe we can bring some reality to it, but what that reality entails turns out not to be very clear on closer inspection.

In the end, we all hitch a ride on a rollercoaster through time for a while as the illusion unfolds between beginning and end. The two certainties we have to make do with.

In my immediate environment I know few followers of any prophet. That gives the freedom to choose one's own path or at least to have the illusion that I do. Because my road sometimes deviates from the usual paths, it might be nice if I can take you along that road for a bit.

A common opinion is that men are simple creatures who only want one thing and I can confirm that this is the case with me. It's just hard to define that one thing. In my case, the search for it usually leads to Thailand. Don't ask me why, but it has been proven empirically. For the past two years, he's met a graceful young lady who, at regular intervals, manages to convince me that I've found the "one" thing. Hallelujah, and they lived happily ever after you might say. Yes, but it's not that simple.

One of the many obstacles on the road to ultimate happiness is potential in-laws. Fortunately, I now have some experience with that. Once again I decided it was time to meet them, because such a meeting always leads to a deeper insight into the background of your loved one. So I booked plane tickets to Udon in NE Thailand, the Isan, and rented a car at the airport and went with the current woman of my dreams to her native village Sawaang Daen Din, the source of all my happiness. From that moment the adventure begins.

You arrive at a fairly modern airport and get a contemporary Japanese car, eko-drive, what more could you want. You actually only feel that you are driving away from civilization when you end up on the first provincial road, where the driving behavior is not quite what you were used to and the vehicles are also becoming more and more primitive. Then at some point you arrive in the dull village that you thought was the final destination, but then you're not there yet. From there a journey begins on increasingly smaller and less and less asphalted roads, ending in a bumpy path between rice fields, for which the eko-drive was not designed, but which it nevertheless defies.

In the end you are faced with a primitive ruin, the kind where farmers store their agricultural tools with us. This is only the final destination. Your loved one appears to have grown up here, in a hut where there are no beds and no toilet. There is electricity and therefore a TV. Even a refrigerator is missing, but there is running water and what else is there are the in-laws-to-be.

The introduction is a fascinating ritual. As a Western man you are by definition an interesting conquest by the daughter, but outstretched hands or warm embraces are not in the arsenal here. The greeting and the conversation first focus on their daughter. Then the attention is slowly shifted to the “alien” she has with her. Of course it has to be somewhere and it has to have water. Hesitantly, some words are addressed to him and when it appears that he says something back, the ice is somewhat broken. After fifteen minutes, something that looks like a conversation unfolds. It is then a bit about village life and about the journey by plane and a suitable accommodation, because it turns out that he does not know much of the Thai language used in the Isan.

Fortunately, that accommodation is never a problem. In the first place because, thanks to the loose Thai sexual morality, you can always go to a “short-time” motel as a last resort. These are hotels consisting of simple rooms with a carport. You can drive in with your car and hide it discreetly behind a curtain, to spend a few hours with your sweetheart on a bed under fluorescent lighting. There is a need for that everywhere in Isan. Miraculously enough, however, in this case there was a beautiful resort within one kilometer of the parental home, consisting of beautiful teak wood, luxuriously furnished houses, located in a beautifully landscaped garden with ponds and flower beds. Besides us there were only two other guests and such a house costs just over a tenner per night. Don't ask how it's possible, just enjoy it. This slogan actually applies to everything in Thailand.

Once that has been arranged, we can work on further details of the introduction. The bottle of whiskey brought along for the father plays an important role in this. After a few glasses of this spirit realm, little is left of the initial hesitation and soon all sorts of other people appear out of nowhere, consisting of distant cousins ​​and uncles who do not avoid the bottle and also that "farang", whose fame has already preceded him, would like to see him in the flesh. Soon an exuberant atmosphere prevails. Unfortunately, experience shows that after a few more bottles of lao-khao, a horrible distillate of rice that smells strongly of petroleum, are touched, that atmosphere almost always turns into total drunkenness. It's a bit of a shock to see the father, who had been so praised beforehand by his daughter that I thought I was going to meet one of the most respectable Thais in the country, to see him roll drunk on a mat to sleep it off. The man's appearance was a cross between an Apache Indian and a faded guitarist from a hard rock band. The only plus was that my prejudice has been confirmed again, namely that Thai men are good for nothing and should be avoided wherever possible.

Rarely do I recognize the image that people like to paint about poor hardworking rice farmers from the Isan. Poor, sure, but hardworking? I know that rice does not harvest itself, but often this is done by the same woman's hand that also runs the entire household and cooks the rice. Rightly so, the mother is central to Thai culture, next to the king and the Buddha.

This mother was also a completely different story. A modest friendly woman, who functioned as mia noi, or concubine of father and gave him this lovely daughter. In addition, he has a mia luang, or main wife, who is somewhat older and with whom he has fathered four other children. Before there are too enthusiastic images, just a comment that it is unusual in Thailand for a man to openly have two wives. Although marital fidelity is rare here, it is mostly secret. The fact that these two women turned out to live together under one roof in one household with one man is a big exception and it was made clear to me from the first moment that such a thing is not for me.

During my four-day stay, some trips were made with the family and finally my duty was over. As a Westerner you are always a Don Quixote-like appearance in NE-Thailand when you are introduced by a local lady, but I managed well. It is always important, without showing this, to keep control. Three ingredients are crucial here. Timely assessment of how situations can develop, possession of a car key and sufficient Baht in your pocket.

The wonder remains that this strange world can sprout such an endearing appearance as my charming Bibi. The most beautiful flowers apparently grow not only on the edge of the ravine, but also in the rice fields of Sawaang Daen Din, which aptly means 'the light of dawn spreading over the land'.

21 responses to “'The most beautiful flowers grow at the edge of the ravine!'”

  1. Leendert says up

    You can really write! Please continue!

  2. ceesvankampen says up

    Realistic, beautifully told. Thank you and please continue. fri. Regards, Ceesvankampen

  3. theowert says up

    Well written and very relatable. The lao-khao certainly plays a role, including my girlfriend's father, when he gets a bottle he bows and waits submissively and hops on his spindle legs with the bottle to a mattress to take a nap after the useful.

    However, I cannot agree that the entire male population is lazy. Because everywhere in the village people are building, pouring concrete. One house or shop is built after another. Seems like the "golden" age started here in the village.

    Sometimes people are working on two or three houses at the same time.
    After the work, a drink of lao-khao is shared together. Now they do with six people with 1 bottle with cubes of ice. So it's not too bad here on the bow.

  4. Pho ma ha says up

    A beautifully written encounter in Isaan!

  5. Bart says up

    Interesting read Bram, your story is somewhere between the growing understanding of the Inquisitor and the one dimensional grumbling of some here on this Blog 🙂
    Personally, I have been amazed all my life about the behavior of men in other cultures. 40 years ago I was a military conscript in Lebanon. The women worked on the land and men mainly drank tea. On the way home after work done, the man got on the donkey and the women walked.
    In the Netherlands I sometimes get tired of too much feminism, but worldwide I can only conclude that our category (i.e. men) often fares poorly. I still don't know why this happens and I may never fully understand it. Ultimately, I think that the biological fact that women bear children contributes greatly to the fact that they often end up behaving much more responsibly in life. By the way, the father (84) of my Thai girlfriend is a hardworking, responsible, poor rice farmer in Isaan, who takes care of his needy wife (81) to the best of his ability.

  6. Dirk says up

    Beautifully written Bram even a bit poetic, but with realism and a good presentation of facts.
    Hopefully a good and bright future with your love, her family will never be able to deny you, but knowing what you are getting into and immersing yourself in her culture will help bridge the differences. Best of luck now and in the distant future…

  7. Jan says up

    Great piece, Brad. Thank you for these reflections. I hope that you see your wishes fulfilled with this Bibi, it certainly looks good.

  8. Be says up

    Beautiful and recognizable story. I would like to read more from the good observer and writer, Bram. Tribute.

  9. carpenter says up

    Sawang Daen Din is also our municipality (amphur), which includes several villages (tambon) with many sub-villages (moo job). For example, we live in the part of village Moo.9 (new name Ban Pho Chai) of tambon Ban Thon. This is located about 6 km north of the center of “Sawang”. I know a lot of hardworking people here in the village, but if you are only a rice farmer you are not always busy, with only 1 harvest per year. That is why they usually add sugar cane and some other temporary jobs, but it remains poor. Better off are the fellow villagers who have found work around Bangkok and only come home a maximum of 2x a year (phimai and songkran).

    • carpenter says up

      I forgot to say that this is a nice story from a, I hope, future many writer on this blog.

  10. Paul Schiphol says up

    A wonderfully recognizable story, not only for those with an Isan woman, but also for me with an Isan man. The fact that my boyfriend at the time brought a man along was never a problem, a farang came to the house, so a party for the whole family and in fact almost all the residents of Moo Baan. After twenty years we have a really strong relationship, he has a good job in the Netherlands and that gives us the opportunity to visit De Isaan every year and go all out. After arriving at Khon Kaen airport, the Rent a Car company's Toyota Fortuner is already waiting for us with the air conditioning running. Before we drive to the family, first stop at the Tesco-Lotus, stock up on at least 10 boxes of Lao and 4 bottles of Jhonny Walker, soft drinks, chicken and fish. When we arrive home, the pig that has just been slaughtered is already lying on a sideboard on the ground and it is the men who do their best to reduce this animal into edible pieces. A lot of beautiful meat is chopped into “laab” and only the pork belly and rib cage end up on the BBQ. The news of our arrival spreads through the village for weeks in advance, so that the few who work outside can return home in time to celebrate the annual farang visit. Unfortunately, the conversation with my very friendly parents-in-law, sister-in-law, brothers-in-law and their children is limited to sign language. After 20 years, my Thai is still insufficient for conversation. I never actually get further than sentences of about 4 words. Although the youngsters are taught English at school, none of them feel any need to try out what they have learned on me. A full week in De Isaan is always something to look forward to for me, the peace and quiet pace of life there form a wonderful contrast with that in the Netherlands and the westernized parts of Thailand. Wonderful to go back to TH in 4 weeks for a month.

  11. joy says up

    Dear Bram,

    Although recognizable and nicely written, I do not agree with the underlying tone of arrogance and superiority. I don't recognize myself in the comments so far.
    Maybe it's just me, but I sense little respect, understanding and understanding of how things are going in a farming community in the Isaan. This could be due to communication or the lack of it.
    Glad you found love, but if you really want to be happy, you need a little more.

    Yours faithfully,

    Joy

    • hans songkhla says up

      you are probably the only one who is negative, beautifully told and described. Also very realistic. Just like the late Frans Amsterdam, this is a wonderful storyteller who makes you feel as if you were there yourself.

  12. Johan says up

    A well written story Brad. Keep it up!

  13. Andy says up

    Wonderfully written Bram is very familiar to the “Farangs” who travel and/or are in the beautiful Isan area. I have been there for many years now, nice, written with a cheerful note. I hope that we can experience more of your experiences in writing.
    Thank you Bram and good luck with your in-laws and in-laws
    With Fri Gr Andy

  14. pamela says up

    Wonderfully written!

  15. harry says up

    although I am working on the script for a romantic detective and will soon debut here with some short stories, I was actually waiting for this.
    keep up the good work bro!

  16. john says up

    easy to read and written with mild humor. KUDOS !!

  17. frans says up

    “and from the first moment it was made clear to me that such a thing is not for me.”

    genius ;'-)

  18. Francis Lavaert says up

    Beautiful piece.
    Reminds me of the bits of ..yeah, what was his name again. The Inquisitor?

  19. ferry says up

    Very recognizable Bram, I have been in the Netherlands for 14 years with a Taise woman from Isaan and I also saw many lapsed Apache Indians or hard rock band members there whose life only consists of showing up at every party and drinking furiously with them. Unfortunately, just like the band members, they don't live that long.


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