Winter in Isan (4)

By The Inquisitor
Posted in Living in Thailand
October 27, 2019

It's time. Mornings with grass that looks fresh because of the dew on it, the green on trees and shrubs that stands up refreshed as if waiting for the first rays of the sun. Big crowds in those trees where birds chirp cheerfully and lizards secretly raise their heads. Ripe fruit ready for picking, inviting because of the large choice. Flowers that are beginning to open to reveal their splendor of colour.

And a wonderful scent that overpowers the entire environment: the rice can be harvested within a few days and therefore has a sweet scent that tends to saffron, which evokes abundance.

End of October, the cooler periods are coming. Except during the day because an exuberant sun still radiates heat and it is only dissipated after sunset.

The coffee cools down quite quickly in the morning in the stone cup that is consumed first. Because just above twenty degrees only. But with the regularity of the clock the temperature ticks higher, around eleven o'clock it is already over thirty and people and animals become a bit slower in all their movements. Until the sun goes down around eighteen, Isaan now enjoys the cooling that gives everyone the opportunity to quickly complete some postponed chores. Spring-like temperature now and people stay outside a little longer to enjoy it.

To then go to sleep without sweating, without artificial cooling.

And they call it winter….

Thus, life ripples on here in Isaan in anticipation of the rice harvest. Some have already started, but most are still waiting until the grains are completely yellow.

And eventually KFC made it to the nearby town. Great, you can have a quick western bite without having to drive sixty kilometers. Is there a coffee shop with delicious pastries, become a tradition twice a week. And finally, food stalls have appeared not too far from home. De Inquisitor had thought that strange for years, nothing to get prepared food in the area.

But now delicious soups, even more delicious fried rice. With pork, chicken or, best, scampis. Fifty baht for a nice fresh meal. Has brother-in-law also realized that he sometimes has to prepare less spicy food so that The Inquisitor can eat with the whole lot. , Tasty. , hmm. The sweet bites of bananas combined with rice melt in the mouth. And because it's the time of year: an abundance of fruit, always fresh, just picked from the tree or taken from the field.

Big juicy watermelons. Spooning passion fruit, what a pleasure. , The Inquisitor does not know the western name of it, they also use it in when the fruit is still green, but when you let it ripen to a reddish brown very tasty. And all accompanied by cold tea made with and sugar. All tasty refreshing vitamins.

And last week there was a party at the neighbors. That means two kilometers away, on a kind of farm. Mai's daughter gave birth to a handsome son. But financially this lady is not very well off, the young woman's husband is someone who would rather be lazy than tired. So Dad kept only one . He financed the food and especially drink, daughter was allowed to keep the traditional hundred or more baht from each visitor.

Eight o'clock in the morning and on the road with The Inquisitor, the moment the monks stop their muttering. Yes, this time it didn't feel like getting mantras around the ears for an hour. Cozy place under a wooden roof, many famous people present. And The Inquisitor immediately a large bottle of beer Chang in front of him. Eight o'clock in the morning.

Well, he doesn't want to be a spoilsport and accepts, meanwhile making good use of the food offered. And it tastes, both the food and the beer. Un-Isaan is the fact that there is no music. No live music with tormenting and dancing girls, no blaring speakers through a music system.

But it is fun, there is a lot of laughter, teasing each other, they do everything they can to make The Inquisitor understand what is going on when he has lost the thread again with all that Isaan dialect. It doesn't take long before they make music themselves on the strangest objects such as beer bottles, empty coconuts, someone with a guitar with only four strings.

As a result, the beer goes in well and quickly, also because it has been a long time since De Inquisitor drank alcohol.

Liefje-sweet sits between the ladies in the living room and comes an hour or two later to report that she wants to go to the shop. No, The Inquisitor doesn't feel like it yet, he's in the right place here. The sweet says with a laugh that she understands, meanwhile pointing to the four empty bottles of Chang in front of him. Oh what, he can handle, thinks The Inquisitor. The sweet cheerfully away with the promise to come and take a closer look later.

(Ladthaphon Chuephudee / Shutterstock.com)

The Inquisitor is happy that she will be back around noon. Because even more beer would be too much, now a happy feeling and better keep it that way. Bit shaky on the back of the bike, it sweet with one hand around its back because of a tendency to lean back too far. Because she doesn't drive straight home, there's a bill to pay in town. Blessed moping in good weather, the head is fresh again because helmet-less, the police are having a siesta. And if they had been there, sweetheart would have just turned around. Both enjoy themselves and so she takes an extra round during the return journey, through fields and forests, you can still drive for miles without encountering a building or other life.

See, now that's something The Inquisitor appreciates in this country. Getting a nice fresh head, close together on the motorcycle, enjoying each other and the environment.

Without thinking about duties, rules and other prohibitions. Without the chance of being 'caught' with financial consequences.

And above all: without pointing fingers or comments from anyone.

13 Responses to “Winter in Isaan (4)”

  1. Daniel VL says up

    Another wonderful storyLove understands after seeing the (empty) bottles of liquor. Two hours later nice and close together on the motorcycle enjoying each other and the environment.
    Now I know where you are from. I had already placed you in Boom or surroundings for a long time. A long time ago you would have written "The ruppelstreek" Keep up the good work I and many others enjoy it. Thanks

  2. Leo Th. says up

    The fruit of Malako I believe is also known as Dragon fruit and Pitaya or at least closely related to each other. It's a type of cactus. I also think I recognize the Cherimoya (Jamaica Apple) in the photo. A delicious sweet taste, eat by spooning when it is slightly ripened. There are plenty of (poisonous) seeds, which you spit out of course. But it could also be the Atemoya, which has slightly fewer seeds and is a cross between the Cherimoya and the Zoetzak. Cherimoya is currently widely available in the Netherlands and we eat one every day. And then that feeling of freedom, which you describe so beautifully as without having to think about duties, rules and other prohibitions. I recognize that like no other! I also regularly answered that when I was asked why Thailand appealed to me so much. How I could enjoy a ride on the motorbike at a calm speed and without a helmet at the crack of dawn. Always be aware of stray dogs. So a reaction from my side, but certainly not a lifted finger.

    • John Chiang Rai says up

      Dear Leo Th, Think you are a bit mixed up with the Thai names and types of the fruit.
      The “Malakoh” is as far as I know the Thai name for Papaya and the Dragon fruit is called “Kew mangkhon” in Thai, while the green fruits you see in the photo above, which have nothing to do with a cactus by the way are called "Noi naa" in Thai.

      • Leo Th. says up

        Yes John, you are right about the Malako. Was confused by the dragon fruit in the picture. The green fruits in the photo, the Cherimoya, are also called noi-na by my partner, but an unknown name in Dutch shops and on the market. Just like with Longan and Lamyai. Incidentally, I did not claim that the Cherimoya is related to the cactus, that referred to the Dragon fruit.

  3. Jacks says up

    It's a pity that CHANG beer no longer has the "bite" it used to have, it's become more of a baby elephant now, but I still drink it.

    By the way, another nice story, my compliments!

  4. Tino Kuis says up

    Enjoy life, Inquisitor. Well written. It is autumn here in the Netherlands. Beautiful colours. I just saw two deer jump away in the woods. Wonderfully cool…..

    Oh yes, that's มะละกอ (tones high, high, middle) papaya.

  5. carpenter says up

    Dear friend, is papaya… you should know that!!!
    Yet another beautifully written story from “our” Isaan, but for me the KFC is not a real asset – for the local population it is, because they prefer chicken to a hamburger. But I think only a McDonalds in Udon Thani is a pity. I think the arrival of the Pizza Company in Sawang Daen Din is a real asset !!!

    • carpenter says up

      Leo Th., dragon fruit is in Thai

      • Leo Th. says up

        You didn't finish your response but I understand what you wanted to say. See my answer to John Chiang rai.

  6. Georges says up

    What wonderful stories you can put together.

  7. Erwin Fleur says up

    Dear Inquisitor,

    Another very good story, has a lot to offer, especially if you live there.
    Top,

    Yours faithfully,

    Erwin

  8. Hans van Mourik says up

    In Indonesia we call it soursop the green fruit.
    Among the Dutch
    Often contains many pips
    Hans

  9. Daniel M. says up

    Dear The Inquisitor,

    Do I still need to write that it is another beautifully written story? I understand that this sentence is getting monotonous…

    It seems as if De Inquisitor followed an integration course in Isaan 🙂 He knows the names of the Thai fruits and meals. In Isan… Many readers of this story will have to guess what exactly these fruits are. Googling these fruits as the Inquisitor wrote it will undoubtedly not show the correct results 🙂 The only way to find out is… go and have a look at De Inquisitor.

    The Inquisitor seems to me to be the best placed person to initiate compatriots into life in the Isaan 🙂

    I read in this story that The Inquisitor has also made “progress” in 2 other areas:
    1. If I remember his stories from the past, The Inquisitor didn't feel like sitting in the company of the men in the village... Now he can't seem to get out of there 😀
    2. The Inquisitor used to criticize the men who drink early in the morning (that too if I remember correctly…)… Now he has clearly adapted 😀

    Think about your health if you want to live there happily ever after! 😉

    Regards.


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