Rainy days in Isan (2)

By The Inquisitor
Posted in Living in Thailand
Tags: ,
July 27, 2018

Normally the rainy season is quite enjoyable in Isaan. Pleasant even after months of drought. Beautiful budding nature that you almost literally see progress. And yes, at the end of June and certainly in July, the rain also falls during the day. But in a fun way: very intensive showers that fascinate and last only a short time. Then the sun comes out again for about three hours, then another shower.

The Inquisitor knows how to keep himself busy in the countryside, has hobbies, is well integrated and can therefore interact pleasantly with people. The shop also brings joys that ease the burdens of being open XNUMX hours a day, seven days a week. About three times a week to the nearby town to buy, both for the shop and privately - eventually everyone knows you and the people here are always friendly and cheerful. Occasionally there is a ritual, a tambun, a village festival.
Moreover: you do what you want, when you want it. No nagging, no complaining, from anyone. Building a hut, felling a tree, … no prohibition or commandment, no one to accuse you.
And of course there is the presence of love. Jokes and pranks, teasing each other, being kind to each other. Those wonderful moments in the evening when we sit together after closing time. The three dogs that come and sit just in front of the terrace and enjoy the company. The cats that first check whether the gate of the terrace is closed and then carefully creep up, purring curiously and sniffing at everything that has changed its place.
And when all that doesn't satisfy, hurrah, into the car, a trip. Because there is a lot to see within a radius of about one hundred and fifty kilometers, a negligible distance in a large country. Or do we leave, towards Udon Thani for a night, or two, … . Some more western pleasure, charging batteries is what it calls it.

But as said before, the current rains are nasty. For days a drizzling drizzle that is occasionally interspersed with a somewhat heavier shower. Without stopping, no sun to be seen. Is there another storm warning: Son Tinh is coming, a tropical storm. That paralyzes a person, you are waiting for it.

All this comes just after a busy period where we had a lot of fun. Three weeks leave in Pattaya, lots to do every day, lots of fun. When you come home, there is football, stay up late and watch the matches of the Belgian national team, together, the three of us, the daughter was also allowed to come and support. Because a nice western snack, brought from that seaside resort. And the next day out of bed a little later, a nap in the afternoon, well, De Inquisitor at least. The days fly by.

Planning also made: the pond must be empty. Then there was already some rain, but 'clean' brother Piak has to cooperate because a lot catching with a net, in a bucket, and emptying those buckets six hundred meters further into the family pool. Forty pieces, each with three or four large fish in it.

With the intention that De Inquisitor would then get to work: redesigning the pond.

That means completely emptying the pond: remove the current plants, remove the stacked stones, empty the filters, remove the pump with the pipes. But the pond simply does not get empty because of the rains. A fierce storm and hoopla! Five inches of water in it. The next morning, after a night of rain: add four centimeters of water.


And the other chores are piling up: mowing the lawn. Clipping hedges. Weeding. Remove algae from driveways and garden paths. Because just about everything a farang does includes power tools… .

After a few days of idleness, De Inquisitor goes for a walk through the drizzle. He is tired of the laptop and the cell phone. He walks through the village and the nearby fields, wherever there is movement.

At Sak's house he hears a heavy cough, not normal. It's Sak's wife. He is sick from the rains. For days she worked in the rice fields, moreover she had a bonus because a somewhat wealthier neighbor had asked her to remove the growing grass between his rice. Wet all day. And she also does her chores at home: washing and peeing as they say. She doesn't have a washing machine, so hand wash. Tough job with a family of four. And that laundry was hung inside the house, because it doesn't dry outside, they can't as De Inquisitor kindly helps: he simply places a large fan under the roof of the pump house and after an hour and a half everything is dry ... .
The moisture level is also extremely high inside her home and this has caused her to contract an infection on her respiratory tract. But she can't stop her duties and money has to be made, however little it usually is. A word of encouragement and the promise of free herbal tea is all The Inquisitor can do.

Further in the village there is shouting in Keim's house. A large family, six young children, one every year. The youngest member is a few months old, the oldest eight years old. Bengels who are bored. Because a wooden house, open ground floor where family life takes place between a pile of rubbish, a mountain of waste and an open kitchen, well, kitchen … . The children are not at school, not even the eight-year-old. Because money for the school bus is not there and through the rains with the moped is not everything, in addition, that little eight-year-old already has to take responsibility, he has a duty to watch his younger brothers and sisters a bit. And they have to get out of bed from half past six in the morning, then Keim's wife's day job starts. Cooking rice for the day ahead. It is not possible to leave children of that age alone on the upper floor.
But even down there they can't do much, they don't have any toys. Too much stuff that poses a danger, because also an old moped, parts of a tractor and a lot of sacks of rice. So, as soon as they see the chance, they walk into the garden. And get full of mud. They walk back, they grab things that then also get full of mud. Plates and drinking cups that have just been washed are drying next to the barrel of water. Freshly washed clothes that hang up get dirty again.

Well, a person would shoot out of his shell for less, but what are those children supposed to do now?

On the south side of the village, the houses are situated in lower land. The canals on the sides of the road are overflowing, they cannot handle the amount of water. They are also the poorest villagers who live here. This is because the fields that lie there often flood, the rice yield is the lowest of all. They don't have cars here, but with the moped or it is almost impossible to do. Because no paved streets, only red earth. Now that are pure mud roads, they look like the ones you often see in African countries during the rainy season. You can only get through it with a four-wheel drive. Adults and children don't see brown, they see red. Because of that mud that they have to go through without exception to do anything. A few fires are burning, they make smoke to drive away the mosquitoes. They just sit there, waiting for the rains to stop it seems. The Inquisitor, also now full of mud, shuffles to one of the houses where people are calling for him.

Who, despite their poverty, still want to offer something, no, thank you, there is no need, but there is no escape. A daughter is summoned, she has to go to the shop in the village. No, you don't have to! Well, she's already gone. In a different way she grunts through the mud ruts. And comes back with a bottle of .. lao kao. Oh dear.
The Inquisitor thinks he can't refuse now, that would be rude. Shudder at the drink, drink plenty of water immediately afterwards.

Difficult conversation because they speak Isan, little Thai. Then use hands and feet, but see, salvation comes from a quick lady who does speak Thai and also some English. The young men of this hamlet are all gone, working elsewhere in the country. Only the elders and the ladies take care of the meager rice fields and they grow some vegetables for their own use. No, they don't have buffaloes or cows, that's not possible here, too humid in the rainy season, too many insects. Strong because the village is less than a kilometer away and they do it there. The Inquisitor can glimpse the inside of the house when someone leaves the door open. Even there is no concrete or floor, only tamped earth. It is also quite dark, they keep everything closed against the insects as much as possible. Mei Nuch notices that The Inquisitor is peeping and invites him inside. Well, a big bare hut, otherwise he can't name it. There is, lying and hanging a lot of stuff, old and worn out. No household goods.
It is quite low and especially dark. Up the stairs, again just a single room, large. Here are a lot of thin mattresses with blankets, clothes hang up because there are no cupboards. Plastic bags with personal items. Lighting is a single bulb in the middle of the ceiling. Oh yes, and a television. Which doesn't work, notes Mei Nuch. The small satellite dish had already spotted The Inquisitor below, heavily dented.

The Inquisitor stalls before he has to drink more drinks, works his way through the mud, reaches the paved street and rinses legs and feet at a tap. And walks home. In his mind he notes to come back again, but not empty-handed. Some tea and coffee, a bottle of lao too.

And thinks how good he actually has it. Hardly bothered by the rains because he doesn't need anything. A wonderful bathroom, with hot water from a rain shower head. Floors, properly lockable windows and doors with mosquito nets. Nice curtains, some paintings on the wall. Closets, storage spaces, no clutter anywhere. Television, laptop, telephone. Fans and air conditioners. A car and a motorcycle, well insured.
The bad feeling he got from the continuous rains is gone. How lucky we are!

7 Responses to “Rainy days in Isaan (2)”

  1. Ton says up

    Good story, nice photos (the top one can go straight to National Geographic). Indeed: we are, as you call it, a bunch of “lucky bastards”.

  2. Simon the Good says up

    And what a "lucky ones" ("lucky ones" we say in the Netherlands) we are, that we can share your daily happiness in your story.

  3. brabant man says up

    Wonder where the writer gets all the time to write these pieces.
    You can't do this in half an hour. Respect.

  4. Wim Verhage says up

    Beautiful story again, with an excellent eye for details.. I enjoyed it.
    Look forward to the next story.

  5. carpenter says up

    How good to read that you have lost your "bad feeling" by realizing that we are doing well, here in Isaan in a decent house with enough money to live well. Happiness is something you can find when you open your eyes to it!!! Fortunately, we can enjoy your beautiful writings in which beautiful Flemish terms appear (on stalls...). Rain or no rain (it looks like rain), keep writing friend because we enjoy it!!! 😉

  6. Piet says up

    Life in Isaan is quite a pleasant stay, as you describe for yourself.
    For the falang, with good health and no worries about money.
    as you describe, you can go wherever you want.
    Only this does not apply so much to your wife,
    I understand ,
    She is in the shop seven days a week.
    and outside closing time when the store is closed and on holidays
    Has hands free, literally and figuratively, will certainly be her choice.

    Gives a good addition, after your triptych about Thai women.
    That the women keep the small economy in Thailand going.
    Gr Pete

    • Rob V says up

      All those fàràng may look alike, but these beautiful stories come from the Inquisitor (Rudi) and the equally beautiful triptych about women is by Hans Pronk. 😉


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