Night train from Chiang Mai to Bangkok

Night train from Chiang Mai to Bangkok. I had heard good things about it, so I definitely wanted to try it out. 

So it happened. After a few days in Chiang Mai, I was waiting for the night train to Bangkok at the picturesque station of this northern city. Because the first class sitting / sleeping compartment (with air conditioning) was full, we opted for second class. This sitting/sleeping coupe had no air conditioning but several fans.

Not a bad choice in itself. The Thai have the strange habit of almost always setting the air conditioning to freezing cold. The result is an unpleasant temperature that almost reminds me of a bleak autumn day in the Netherlands. The same applies to the intercity buses with air conditioning (1st class), take a thick jacket with you because it is freezing cold.

Chiang Mai station is remarkably small. When you look around you will definitely see something related to pandas. The pandas of the Chiang Mai Zoo are world famous and a top tourist attraction. When you arrive by train in Chiang Mai you will not overlook the pandas.

Tears for the King

A kind of shrine to the Thai King had been erected at the station. A large portrait, lots of flowers, a table with chair and a guest book. My Thai travel companions let me know that I could write a wish for the King in the guest book. HRH has been ill for some time and has been in hospital for many months. Of course I wished him well and a speedy recovery.
Then she sat down at the table and wrote quite a story in Thai script, which we could not read. My mind, meanwhile, drifted to the many images of frenzied Thai worshiping their beloved King as a demigod. I also understand more and more why. He is the stable factor in this politically torn country. The Father of the Country. The last hope. The one authority that everyone listens to and deeply respects.

After committing her congratulations and get well soon to the paper, she stood up. I saw a tear roll down her light brown cheek. “I have something in my eye,” she quickly apologized. Because showing emotions in public is not common in Thailand.
I asked what she had written down. She replied that she hoped he would live to be a thousand years old and she really meant it.

Backpackers

The train arrived and we were able to find our reserved seats. The Thai trains are remarkably practical. You sit opposite each other and therefore you have the necessary privacy. There is also enough space to store your suitcase. There is a common area with sinks to freshen up or brush your teeth. Even the toilet was fairly clean for Thai standards and didn't even smell, which is special in itself.

The journey by train in Thailand is also safe, there is a (tourist) police presence on almost every train. In my compartment were many backpackers and also western women traveling alone. In Thailand that is fine.

After some time, a Thai comes by to take your drink order. You get a menu and vegetarians have even been thought of. We were already quite hungry, so we made our choice. After some time, a nice meal is served. The Thai catering employee will provide a table and enjoy.

The atmosphere in the coupe was excellent. The backpackers were clearly looking forward to it, the cheap Thai beer was brought in in large numbers. The nice thing about backpackers is that they quickly make contact and discuss adventures and experiences with other backpackers in no time.

The Englishman and my beautiful neighbour

A few seats away, but right in my field of vision, sat a ruddy Englishman in his mid-thirties with his somewhat frail Thai girlfriend. It was hot and he was chronically thirsty. I was very concerned about the hundreds of other passengers on the train because I had the impression that he was single-handedly tapping away the entire Thai Railways beer supply. But unlike many other Englishmen who often have a bad drunk, he remained friendly and had a great time with his Thai companion. As he had more beer under his belt, he also fell more in love with Lek, Nok, Fon or whatever their name is by the minute. He made that clear to her by grabbing her more and more emphatically. Always a difficult dilemma for a Thai lady because showing too much affection in public is very rude. But luckily she was able to handle it well and I don't expect her to be traumatized.

Next to me, separated by the aisle, was an American backpacker. She had an American father and a French mother, she told me. Well, I can guarantee that this combination produces excellent offspring. She was vitamin to my eyes.
Because she had no idea how things went on this train, she asked me all sorts of questions. Fortunately, my Thai companion knew the ins and outs and so I was able to provide the French American beauty with all sorts of useful things information. I also started to feel more and more at home despite the fact that I had only had a few beers with dinner.

The American one would suit me just fine as my Mia Noi, I thought, when she gave me a friendly look for the umpteenth time. I decided not to introduce it to my Thai girlfriend. They are quite jealous and a 'Butterfly man' runs the risk of waking up as a kind of Katoey, but without tits and without…, yes. So not a good plan.

U2

Everything was right about this train journey, the atmosphere, the company and the monotonous drone of the rails below us. I listened to the live version of U2's 'Kite' on my iPod and watched the Thai landscape slowly pass by. This is why you travel. The rare moments when you sink into a feeling of total relaxation and you are very satisfied with yourself.

In addition to eating, talking on the phone and watching TV, sleeping is also something my sweetheart had on her 'to do' list as standard. The Thai Railways employee was asked to prepare her bed. Because I knew that you have the least space at the top and I am 186 cm tall, I had already appropriated the somewhat more spacious sleeping place downstairs. With a few movements and a lot of noise, the Railwayman conjures up a great place to sleep. The chair I was just sitting on had given way to a small but comfortable bed.

The Englishman, meanwhile dumped his 10th half liter inside. He looked at the scene from a distance and asked me if I was tired. He clearly had no intention of going to sleep just yet. Me neither and pointed to my Thai girlfriend. The word 'lazy' that I used immediately made a lot clear. With a big grin he put the beer bottle back to his lips and gripped his Thai Fon or something tight. I don't think it's necessary, because Fon really doesn't run away from her tipsy English gold mine.

romances

Although Thais are generally friendly and in a good mood, this decreases significantly when they are hungry or sleepy. So I thought it was fine that she took a nap over my head. There was plenty to see and my attractive neighbor was willing to chat. No doubt more questions would come to her mind and I turned out to be useful to her.
Of course I was also curious how long the Englishman would last. With the boys and girls backpackers, the beer had the right effect and all kinds of romances blossomed. I wondered if the backpackers would manage to occupy a sleeping place with the two of them unseen.

The train slows down with some regularity. Sometimes he stopped at a station, but also on the way the train stopped a number of times for unclear reasons. I really enjoyed this train journey. In fact, it left a special impression on me. Although my bed was also prepared, I could follow the whole spectacle half lying down. Thai who were busy working on the train or just walking by. Backpackers who could use the polonaise at any time. The Englishman who finally waddled to the dining car himself because it took him too long before new beer was delivered. The American neighbor who, much to my chagrin, made contact with the backpackers and stayed in another compartment for a long time. I wasn't bored for a moment.

As it got later and later, more and more curtains were drawn and the backpackers, the Englishman and the American stayed elsewhere on the train, I decided to go to sleep too. The monotonous sound of the track and the sleeping pill soon did their job.

awakening

Waking up in a sleeper train is also an experience in itself. Lots of sleepy heads in the aisle. There is no longer any question of privacy at that point. Washing, peeing and changing clothes. The nightwear must be replaced by a clean T-shirt. Dozens of people want to use a few sinks and the toilets at the same time. It evokes memories of a school trip where the whole dormitory suddenly wakes up and starts to move.

The train approaches the suburbs of Bangkok and adjusts its speed. The Railwayman has changed most of the beds back to normal seats. Every now and then I hang out the window so as not to miss anything of the city of at least 10 million people that is slowly awakening. The sultry night is exchanged for a new sunny day. The first oriental food smells from outside swirl into the compartment. Thai stomachs also need to be filled early in the morning. Slowly but imperturbably, the train progresses along the Thai slums that are built against the track. The smells are now becoming more distasteful, a sewage smell dominates. We drive through a part of Bangkok that you will not find in the 'glossy' travel guides. In the 'City of Angels' the contrast can be very large.

My angel is also awake and puts on her broad Thai smile again. To my utter surprise, even the Englishman is up early. It's the first time I've seen him without beer. The backpackers refuse to wake up. The alcohol hasn't worn off yet. They live on in their own backpacker world for a while. The American neighbor is also not yet visible. Since her rapprochement with the backpackers, I feel less important in her life. Too bad, then look outside again, there is also plenty to do there.

Goodbye kisses

Given the considerable time that we have been in Bangkok and the fact that we are still not at the final station, it is clear once again how immense Bangkok is. We occasionally stop. The structures next to the rails are the shelters of the poor Thai. They live there. Not yet good enough for us to store your old bicycle. It brings you right back to reality.

The Railwayman is strict but fair to the backpackers and my neighbour. Even if you don't understand the language, it's clear what the point is. Waking! The American has also just got out of bed, more than worth the sight and sleepily asks me how long it will be before we arrive. I estimate half an hour, but it's a guess. She then hurries to get everything ready.

The coupe is a sleeper compartment. It looks normal again, we are ready for the approaching arrival. Phone numbers and email addresses are exchanged. A few friendly goodbye kisses or a distant “goodbye”. The bags are packed, everyone gets out and disappears forever into the anonymous crowd on the platform.

For quite a few hours we formed a colorful mix of different individuals, randomly gathered in a Thai 2nd class train compartment on our way to Krung Thep and a new destination.

The night train from Chiang Mai to Bangkok, it was more than worth it….