Seized from Isan life (part 1)
What is such an expat doing there in Isaan? No compatriots around, not even European cultures. No cafes, no western restaurants. No entertainment. Well, The Inquisitor chose this life and is not bored at all. Daily, taken from life for a week. In Isan.
Monday
Although the days of the week play little role in life here, Monday is the starting day of the week. Because school day. And it is the duty of The Inquisitor to take the stepdaughter to school. By car, even though it is only three and a half kilometers away. His comments at the time that an eleven-year-old could easily ride a bicycle were quickly suppressed.
Too hot. Too cold. Too much sun. Rain.
And above all, why do you have a car?
Well, De Inquisitor can take a look in the village on the return trip. Life here starts slowly every day. Groups of people are standing or sitting here and there talking, a farmer takes his buffaloes to a pasture, a few water the plants around the house. The Inquisitor has to stop about every hundred metres. Where are you going? Where are you from?
Same ritual every morning. But it's fun and always laughing. And you learn things.
Whether De Inquisitor wants to help clean the canals? Will he come and see this afternoon, they are going to clear a forest? They're going hunting tonight, won't he come along? Soon they are going to grab fish in Grandpa Deing's pool, don't feel like participating? Depending on his mood and his physical condition, The Inquisitor chooses an activity and participates in village life. That's nice. But this Monday it doesn't make sense.
Back home, The Inquisitor settles on his upstairs terrace, glazed on three sides with sliding windows. During the hot period, the windows are closed and the air conditioning is turned on, during the annual short cold period with an ... open electric grill, his only source of heating but very handy, portable, so in the evening it first goes to the bathroom, then to the bedroom. Oh my, so dangerous.
This late morning is wonderful: the smell of fresh coffee, the view over the garden, the fields and forests - it makes life pleasant. Turn on the computer, read newspapers. Laughing with the nonsense from Europe, laughing with some articles and reactions on Thailandblog.
But often also show understanding, Western thinking and acting are indelibly in his mind.
Around ten o'clock the female calls, breakfast. This ranges from Western bacon and eggs to Isan , a kind of chicken soup in which they often secretly put a forbidden vegetable in it. Will they become even slower than they are? De Inquisitor used to think when he discovered this - by chance -, nowadays he doesn't mind this anymore.
Breakfast is invariably eaten in the wife's shop. On the street side, therefore, always that strange greeting from love to all passers-by or customers: , roughly translated 'eat along'. Except for a notoriously poor bastard, no one does. One last morning cigarette and off to work. Gardening is on the agenda today. Driving down the grass in the front yard, fertilizing some plants with the freely obtained cow dung, taking care of the orchids.
About three hours, a kind of slow action because hard work is out of the question, too hot. Regularly take a look in the shop, joke with the lady, have a chat with a customer.
Around two o'clock in the afternoon it gets too hot, the sun is stinging. The sparrows fall from the roof, the late Ernest Claes once wrote.
A light and fresh home-made salad and then a shower to cool down is the message. Always fun, it's warm enough to do it the Isaan way: nice and cool water from a stone barrel over your body. Oh so refreshing.
At fifty-seven, De Inquisitor is not really very old, but an afternoon nap now and then can't hurt. But he still can't just admit that, every time he says he's going to read something.
The twenty years younger love invariably bursts out laughing. Because after ten minutes he generally falls asleep, an hour only so refreshing. Because of the blissful relax seat that is strategically placed on the terrace of the upper floor. The open windows give a nice breeze. If necessary, turn on the ceiling fan.
An hour and a half later and The Inquisitor decides to start cooking. Belgian. Petats-with-vegetable-meat-and-sauce. In his previous Belgian life, De Inquisitor never cooked and he had to learn that, after a lot of trial and error, that is starting to work out nicely. Only the sauces : they have to come from ready-made packages that De Inquisitor steals from Makro and other shops during a city visit to Udon Thani or Sakun Nakhon. Because they usually have little of those imports in stock, so he often just buys everything.
Just like the leek, the celery, the mayonnaise, the mustard, ….
In the meantime, stepdaughter has returned from school, with neighbors. And she is always mouth watering ready because Western fare goes well with her. That's nice, it flatters De Inquisitor's ego that other people are also starting to appreciate his cooking skills.
This evening it is quiet in the shop. So there is hope to be able to close around . You can, we're open since 6:30 this morning. The girlfriend has a fixed evening ritual. To block. Feeding dogs. Washing dishes – the one household chore that The Inquisitor constantly tries to avoid. Then, much to The Inquisitor's chagrin, make the cash register – on the bed. He waits desperately every time. Because, from the beginning of the relationship there is a fixed rule: always shower together. Even at times when there is mutual resentment, in the shower there is talk and problems are solved.
Strange but true, and no, not in the way you think.
And then, with the most blissful moments of all days: relaxing in bed. Sometimes with activity, sometimes without and just a nice chat. Half an hour, then the wife becomes sleepy. And De Inquisitor can indulge in his beloved hobby: reading.
The Inquisitor was never bored for a moment. And he looks forward to another day.
To be continued
Hopefully there are more than seven days in the week 🙂
Nice story and completely true if you are going to live remote.
But fortunately Isaan is more than remote living and all western facilities are there if you are willing to drive for it. The major cities such as Khorat, Khon Kaen, Udon Thani, Sakon Nakhon, Nakhon Phanom and the region of Buriram, Yasothon, Surin, Ubon Ratchathani all offer much more than just farmers and outdoorsmen.
But if you want peace, you're in the right place. Then cherish that choice.
Terrible in the long run such a life for me : for the rest it is nice for 1-2 months the living pattern in the Isan . But they go to bed for 7-8 hours and actually outside of the rice harvest once a year it is the same every day. Life flies by in dullness. I thought so too, but after many months I long to go back
For example to Holland or to where something matters. Know many Dutch expats there who do: do not speak Thai come together once a week (and sit at home for the rest of the week) what a boring life In the villages it is tote hose (have been coming there for 1 years) but I'm happy when I'm back in Holland
Yet this story reminds me of the Netherlands, but then in the Middle Ages.
To each his own, but I prefer a more “city” life.
Well written and I look forward to the sequel.
Glad to read you again, I missed you, let it be Tuesday soon!
In my opinion, a good command of the language is necessary. Otherwise you are indeed very dependent on the weekly "men's box". Then it indeed becomes a lonely place of exile. Napoleon on St Helena
Well, also depends on the age of course. Now, as an older person, I don't have to do all that pub walking anymore.
Peace? During my last stay I was constantly kept awake by cane sugar cars rumbling past
And that while the road is 80 meters away.
If I wanted to drink a beer outside in the cool, someone had set fire to their bare sugar cane field again!
Get in quickly! Air conditioner on! Fortunately, they haven't been complaining about booze lately.
That's over since my in-laws moved and no longer live in the village center. Good thing, too.
Good story. you are probably running out of time. Time is not the same for everyone.. Many more enjoyable days.
I recognize that story. That's okay for a while...but afterwards it's a kind of exile...for a while I can manage...But after a while I start to miss a lot of things...culture...a good conversation...social contacts...a nice terrace... .cinema...the newspaper...an exclusive magazine...an exhibition...a beautiful special building...a nice exclusive car...it's a bit too limited for me...but it's different for everyone...
Many move away from those villages to eg Bangkok to work, the rest who stay there often do nothing at all all day or drink a bottle ect. Some young girls also go to Pattaya to do you know. You don't have cafes. Only Thai restaurant if you are lucky in the area. People get up at 06.00:07.00 and go to bed at 08.00:XNUMX – XNUMX:XNUMX. Entire villages people only ask where you are going and often sit at the house all day. If you want to go to a big city a few times a week, they say: again
The Thai often return to the villages during the holidays and rice harvest and then leave again
I see the Dutch expats having the most fun when they get together once a week because the women often hang out with the Thais
But yes everyone has their own joy : But I wanted to do it : But will never do it only 1-2 months in the year the Isan is enough
That's right...that question from Bai Nai...where are you going? I was really fed up. Nobody ever goes anywhere unless it is to the village shop... so they are always very surprised when you get ready to go somewhere. What I also got tired of was that everyone there thinks it's completely normal that you don't go anywhere on foot... even for 50 meters they take the scooter... On foot you look like an alien... and especially for the dogs. ....who have never seen a human being walk
People also have little interest in it…..few people are anything or what creative…..and then there is of course the well-known alcoholism…..No, not very exciting for me.
Oh what a delight. It is best to speak the language (a little). Every week, sourpusses with fellow countrymen, etc., would be the throat of me. For a change you can also go anywhere in Isaan if you are tired of village life, because that happens anyway and is not bad at all, isn't it?
Regards and enjoy,
Joy
Beautiful and relatable story!
I have been staying in the Isaan for 2 years now! It is now 20,30 pm here and first come to read this article.
It is true that there is little Western experience…. Coincidentally, that was the reason why I came to live here.
My wife and I have just visited Ban Dung. A nice Frenchman and his wife have a restaurant there and we were able to enjoy a nice meal there... That's all it should be. Quite enough variety for us.
Being happy must be filled in by everyone themselves.
The Inquisitor succeeds in this.
I'm sure he won't be bored.
I like being here, I feel relaxed and I can go out if I need to.
Hi Jan can you tell me where that restaurant is located in Bandung
We live in Ban Hua lua 20 km from Bandung, we go there every week 1 or 2x for groceries, have lived there for 6 years and will not get bored nice and quiet.
would like to have another meal
Greetings William
If you enter Bandung from the south side, past the Lotus and the hospital on the right, the road narrows from 2 lanes per direction to 1 lane. The French restaurant can then be found on the left, watch out for the French flag!
Like Tim said!
But during the month of October they are on leave! You can eat delicious steak! Friendly people too! The name of the restaurant is Kinaree! (name of their daughter)
Recommended!!!
Greetings and tasty! Maybe we'll see each other there!
nicely written Inquisitor, very recognizable, although there are readers who have a different opinion, but that will always be the case, I also enjoy myself here, nice and quiet and not a gentleman's room, although you also meet expats, but if I become dependent on expats of the same language, I will move back to my country of birth, my experience is that most conversations are about visas, etc., as the inguisiteur indicated, the peace and slow life, no stress life without watches, get up in the morning when it is light and go to bed after dark, read or sleep again, am 18 married my wife speaks Dutch, her choice was not to live in the immediate vicinity of family, also think that this is the reason that we have been able to do it without problems for so long endure, I myself am blessed with the gift of being able to eat everything, although it is also nice to eat something Western now and then, so the Makro is the place to go, remember that we were in Pattaya years ago, came to the hotel in conversation with a couple, of which the lady proudly announced that they were already on holiday in Pattaya for the 17th time, to which I answered dryly: then you have never been to Thailand, the couple is offended, but I respect everyone's wishes myself a few lived on phuket for years,but we like it here.inquisitor we eagerly await your follow up.
Here in Ubon Ratchatani you have (almost) everything. Also isaan with all the trimmings. My biggest hobby is doing nothing and was not always accepted in the Netherlands if you stop working relatively young because you could. Everyone does what seems best to him or her, I have been doing that for six years with great pleasure with my not too young Thai beauty (only inner skin), which fits well with my favorite hobby.
People watching from your terrace and relaxing and a good night's sleep, that is a paradise on earth. Another 22 months and then I will do the same, away from that idiocy in NL.
I hope to be able to move from the Netherlands to Thailand as soon as possible and that will also be Isaan and it can indeed concern me that there is so little to do in the village. However, when I read your report, there is a lot to do and nothing is necessary.
I look forward to the next part.
Greetings and enjoy
I first read the age 75, so I thought, well, okay. But at 57 this way of life? Maybe nice after a very busy life and a few weeks, even a few months of rest. It is not much of a challenge to maintain this lifestyle for years. But if you do succeed, respect, great, then you have really found your inner peace!
Can't imagine life in Isaan, Live in a suburb in the north-west of bangkok. All possible facilities within a radius of 5 km, and in a 99,99% Thai neighborhood. I am bu once a city slicker.
so wonderfully peaceful
nice story.
Thank you
I live in a small village in Isaan, near the town of Wanonniwat... around 15 farangs of various backgrounds live around it... every evening between 17 and 20 p.m. those who want to meet at a certain place if they need a chat and a beer...some come almost every evening, others come once a week just for what they need...The language of instruction is usually English, sometimes German but unfortunately never Dutch, but if you paid attention at school in the past, you can still I enjoy working with other languages and sometimes I am a Translator/Dolmetscher
It is best to keep it that way
Man is a social being. With the exception of hermits, we all need contact with others, and I don't just mean sex.
Most expats in the Isan have little contact: they only know their wives, in-laws and villagers, and if you don't speak Thai, the social world becomes small. Many say it's so nice and quiet and I think that's partly a fallacy. Nobody wants to be buried alive. The same applies to expats in the cities, but they 'hide' their limited social contacts behind urban facilities such as cinemas, theaters and shopping centres.
The solution is a more active attitude from the expat: learning Thai and helping Thai people with all kinds of things, because there is still some room for improvement in the training. Well, you also need a work permit for volunteer work. So the advice is: officially marry your wife (if you weren't already) and change the type of visa so that you can do all kinds of things.
Live 5-7 kilometers north of Udonthani, in such a resort. I really really like it here. Everything is moving at a pace that suits my age (nearly 70). In the resort we have a beautiful house with garden around. Very friendly neighbours, not only farang but also whole Thai families. All very relaxed. Twice a week we (my wife and I) go to Udonthani center for shopping, banking and sitting on a terrace with a drink and of course also to eat. Apart from a few trips a year, such as to Chiang Mai and Roi, there is plenty of variety here during the week. And yes, it is indeed useful if you speak and understand some Thai. That makes the contacts much more interesting. And no, I never go to a gentlemen's club. No need for the nagging of all those farang about the situation here in Thailand (traffic, 90 day report, annual new visa application at immigration, the heat, the rain, and so on). I've lived here for two years now, so not very long, but I don't miss the Netherlands for even a minute.
Only now do I understand why I keep missing out when I'm looking for the delicious imported sauces in Sakon Nakhon and Udon Thani.
From now on I better drive straight to Na Kham for a delicious imported sauce, ha ha
I respect anyone who chooses such a life, but I personally imagine a rewarding old age after a working life something else.
Every evening in bed early, and in the morning with the first rays of light from the feathers, to endure a day that usually does not offer much difference from the previous ones.
I stay every year for 4 to 5 months in a village near Chiang Rai, and although this is certainly not comparable to the loneliness of the Isaan, I cannot imagine a life here in the long term either.
Even if you speak Thai, you will continue to interact with most of the villagers, clearly noticing the difference in Interests.
Interests that, understandably, for many villagers do not go beyond their daily worries, and what the Thai TV tells them as the truth, so that most conversations are also very superficial.
Their kindness, and the fact that my wife likes to visit her family, is almost the only source of energy for me to keep up this life for 5 months.
Someone who now still lives in the Netherlands, and wants to follow his wife in the long run, I would recommend first taking a longer probationary period, and asking himself critically, whether this is really the evening of his life, which he has dreamed of all his life has.
For me it is a kind of test lying in the last box, the lid of which still allows just enough oxygen to pass through so as not to close my eyes for good.
But this is of course very personal, and certainly no further indication of how one should enjoy his old age.
Dear Corretje, If you read my response carefully again, it will become clear that I based my knowledge of Thai speech on my personal situation in the village in Chiang Rai.
Although a dialect is also spoken there, it is still the language that is taught in primary schools throughout Thailand.
More like the often sparse English language skills of the population, Thai speech is almost the only possibility to start a conversation after the local dialect.
And even if a Farang were to speak the dialect fluently, he would still find that he quickly reached his limits in terms of interests compared to the local population.
Interests that often fade even more to a minimum with the excessive use of alcohol by many, so that as a farang you increasingly get the feeling of living in a very superficial world.
In the 4 to 5 months of my presence, I am forced to visit the city often, so as not to get the feeling that I am cut off from the normal world.
Farangs who isolate themselves without sufficient language knowledge actually live in a very small world, where they can only communicate with their own wives and a very limited part of the population.
A communication that often never goes into depth, and often cannot be compared in any way with people from their own culture, who have been brought up with their own mother tongue.
Dear John,
The Thai ladies are looking for a good life and send their family money to maintain it.
The eternal whining about money that lasts, and not for the Thai but for everyone.
Myself and my wife are very clear about giving money to the family.
You can prevent this problem by making clear agreements with your wife.
We give little because at some point it is no longer enough.
When we go to Thailand, some members of the family get some money and that's it.
Of course her family tries to intimidate her into getting more money…nope.
That is why she is more with her family in Thailand than with you (if you live together
like us). An example is her sister who does not have a Farang and her sister does... two even,
she is so jealous that she started stealing from our house and devising schemes to get money.
It is up to you where you draw the line.
It remains wonderful in the Isaan and if I get bored then I go on a tour.
Yours faithfully,
Erwin
Dear,
Love your daily stories.
I will continue to follow this daily.
When I'm at home (once or twice a year) I can also really enjoy what's going on
all happened in our village and I am not bored for a moment.
As for the cordiality of the Thai to participate in something, I really like it
and educational.
and of course almost everyone asks where you go when you leave.
That's curiosity, whatever you feel a bit like when something happens
that people know where you are.
Nice, I feel very much at home in your stories.
Yours faithfully,
Erwin
Dear,
editor forgot a word.
It should be "whatever also gives you the feeling that if something happens"
With greeting,
Erwin
When you have a banana plantation,
you really won't get bored. Go for a round every day
walk , remove yellow and brown leaves and look ,
or somewhere a banana is turning yellow .
Every week a few bunches to harvest.
In addition to that, keep the grass and the others as well
keep an eye on fruits and vegetables.
Oh, I see that the chili has turned red again,
just harvest, a banana plant is very slanted,
just get wood and support that plant.
I started in between
to make lamps out of bamboo, kind of art-work
and a new hobby of mine.
Once a month and meeting with an Austrian
in Chok Chai , 15 km further on ,
in his restaurant, where you can eat delicious western food,
where every time about 15 Germans, Switzers and Dutch come,
who all also like to live here in the Isaan,
who don't whine but talk about anything and everything.
And once a year 4 weeks to Hau Hin to take a break
to go and enjoy the hustle and bustle there, meet people you know
and enjoy the sea and the many different restaurants .
But after the 4 weeks I would like to go back to my village,
the peace and nature. You just have to have something to do
Then you won't get bored and you will stay fit and strong.
The Inquisitor does it his way, I do mine
but we have all chosen ourselves for a life in Isaan
and we are certainly not the only ones who are having a good time here ,
who are satisfied and happy. Do you still have a good wife?
by your side , then you live here happily and contentedly !
You must have a work permit for the work you do. And working in agriculture is forbidden for foreigners if the rules are interpreted in a certain way.
http://gam-legalalliance.com/services/immigration/thai-visas/thai-work-permit/prohibited-jobs-for-foreigners-in-thailand/
There is sometimes discussion about certain works because the official descriptions are in Thai.
So far I have only been to Thailand twice and each time to Isaan and I must say that I am having a good time there, I think I will stay there for good when I retire,
I don't miss Belgian cuisine at all when I'm in Thailand, on the contrary, I miss Thai cuisine here and I'm already looking forward to my next holiday in Isaan
Nice story, also live outside far away from all Westerners and enjoy waking up by the crowing of roosters and the smell of the fires.
Nice to enjoy your pieces again. Don't know what time you get up, but only having breakfast at 10.00 would be too late for me, I'm an early bird>>>>>