The Serpents of Isan

By The Inquisitor
Posted in Isaan
Tags: ,
27 September 2019

Deep in Isan, in the middle of the Udon Thani – Nong Khai – Sakun Nakhon triangle, lies an ancient hamlet, Nong Feak. The residence of The Inquisitor for six years after a nine-year stay near Pattaya, in Nongprue. He also had to deal with it over there against the coast, but much more here. Creature serpents, hard to tell if they are female or male despite their often colorful appearance.

Those who opened this blog hoping to get another nice and juicy story about problems with people are wrong. This blog was written in response to a reposted message from Tino Kuis. Snakes.

As a Lage Lander bij Zee, near Antwerp, De Inquisitor knew nothing about these beasts. Only saw them at the zoo or on television. And even then she found little adorable. Possibly Catholic education in Flanders is guilty of that, you know, Eve and her sin. Or was it Adam? Anyway, snakes were not in his life and he didn't mind at all.

In his early thirties he started to see something of the world, no, not some European holiday destination, De Inquisitor was looking for some adventure. South America, mainly Ecuador. Beautiful country, beautiful nature but hardly any snakes. They are there, but you don't get to deal with them, not even on a trek through a piece of Amazon jungle by boat. Insects galore, some monkeys, a rare crocodile, and a whole bunch of insects in all colors and sizes. Not a snake to be seen after three long stays in that beautiful country where De Inquisitor wanted to move to until he discovered Thailand in the early nineties. The first thing he saw in Bangkok was a newspaper, the Bangkok Post, with a picture on the front page of a bunch of people holding a huge snake. Trapped somewhere in that urban metropolis. From a toilet. It took a few days for De Inquisitor to stop checking the toilet before using it… .

Discovering Thailand for only two years was enough and De Inquisitor bought a house in Nongprue, at the time a blissfully quiet town about five kilometers from the hedonistic Pattaya. The Darkside was still quite rural at the time and behold, the first snakes appeared 'live' in his life. Nice pictures for the home front and the animals were quickly removed by the Thai neighbors. Nine years later he moved to his current residence in Isaan and snakes would become part of his life.

Here, in the middle of fields and forests, just a small village center about two kilometers from the house, there are weekly 'close encounters' with those bitches. Although there are more than enough prey in the wild, they continue to slither towards the garden and house. No idea why they do it, there are no chickens in the garden, just three dogs and two cats. And the dogs do discover the snakes and start attacking them. Furious barking, threatening, retreating, they are cautious. And keep it up until The Inquisitor comes to assist them, well, frankly, kill them.

Because De Inquisitor doesn't care about those stories of 'most of them are harmless'. Or "you have to see first if they are poisonous or not". Do that while the bitch follows your every move, ready to strike. No, The Inquisitor wants to be first. All too often people have been bitten here and are still dealing with the consequences. And yes, here is a kind of 'clinic' where they can treat bites, but often they just don't have the necessary antiserum in stock. Do you immediately need more than an hour to reach a better equipped hospital … .

Close encounters galore and De Inquisitor has gotten better at it along the way. Usually anyway.

But in the beginning it was terrifying because totally inexperienced in this matter. Explore the area, cultivated rice fields, there are often small huts to take a breather and cool down. Well, you have to check first. Because beloved hideout for snakes, The Inquisitor once sat completely paralyzed, watching a serpent discovered too late until it disappeared. She hung above his head in the rafters.

Walking through the rice fields, sometimes through the water. And hoopla, snakes! And nowhere to be found a stick.

Into the woods, wonderful nature full of wild orchids and other beauty. Yet sated with… serpents. Which - as a Westerner - you hardly see, how often has De Inquisitor escaped a, euphemistically put, “defensive attack” by such a beast?

Just the same at home. Nice pleasant gardening is seriously disturbed by a snake that found shelter under that pile of wood you put there the day before yesterday. They like to make nests in the drains until one day you see several young snakes, barely eight inches long but just as venomous as an adult.

One morning, as always around six o'clock, The Inquisitor steps out onto the terrace. Cup of coffee in hand, ready to enjoy the sunrise. And there she suddenly comes right into attack position, a snake. Reddish brown, heavy throat pouch and extremely aggressive. Half asleep, The Inquisitor can just retreat, but the serpent comes after him. Calling it sweet in a panic who doesn't like it either. A stick does not help, the beast attacks itself. So enlist the help of passers-by who go to work, otherwise De Inquisitor would never have gotten rid of it.

Pruning trees and shrubs, gardening or other outdoor work: there is a constant danger of a snake.

The Inquisitor gradually got used to it, the panic is gone. Yes, usually a caught snake looks for a way out. And yes, The Inquisitor no longer begins to walk dreamily, now watch where he steps, check the trees under which he has to pass. And The Inquisitor has become man enough to kill them himself, at an average of four a month. He is even starting to recognize some species. Cobras are the easiest, also the most common here. But also regular vipers and strange but true: lately regular kraits, very poisonous. But the rest of these twisted beasts don't recognize The Inquisitor and he really doesn't intend to bother with them.

And then Tino's blog appears. Good story but not the opinion of De Inquisitor. Because coincidentally, two hours before reading Tino's blog, De Inquisitor's dog was attacked by a spitting cobra. The male sought shade at the side of the shop and lay down in the sand. Where the cobra lay, almost invisible. Both were shocked by each other, but the dog was too late. The cobra straightened up and spit venom right into its eye. The dog has probably lost his sight on the right side. The cobra was so aggressive that The Inquisitor had to call in help to kill it.

Snakes are dirty, dangerous serpents. Dangerous for humans and animals. There are kids running around here. Your pets. And The Inquisitor will continue to mercilessly kill them whenever they come into his territory. Certainly now, after that incident with the dog. And he will find out afterwards whether or not she was poisonous.

Sorry Tino.

29 Responses to “The Serpents of Isan”

  1. Bert says up

    Nice story and fully share your opinion

  2. Kees Janssen says up

    Snakes are a species I'm terrified of.
    I wouldn't even go to a zoo. It's one of the reasons I always check the toilet first to see if there isn't one swimming.
    Very sporadic so a snake outside.
    Also rats and some spiders etc are animals that I don't enjoy looking at.

    • Marc Thirifays says up

      All understanding, I also had one in the toilet bowl in Lahansai ... always look first before sitting down ... ditto with footwear !!! Always check for scorpions or centipedes!!!

  3. Dirk says up

    Inquisitor,
    you are a man after my own heart.

    It's almost politically incorrect in this day and age of pathetic nature to be realistic.
    of course killing snakes etc. is not pleasant.

    But seldom do you hear from the snake lovers how best to protect your family and yourself, and do you only hear hymns to those beautiful animals. (Food for psychologists; fascination with Thanatos).

    The locals generally make short work of writhing monsters.

    Perhaps the saying also applies here; “When in Rome, do as the Romans”.

    • Peter Young. says up

      See comment Dirk 2
      Ps and according to the locals also tasty
      Personally, I think it tastes like chicken
      Good thing I only ate it once
      Here too there will be a difference in which species can be eaten and which cannot
      Gr Peter
      Ps also from isaan
      And yes my dogs make short work of any snake that comes on their property

    • Dirk says up

      How to react to snakes?
      Very simple. Leave them alone. They'll be happy to slip away quietly.
      Make sure you let them pass. Don't corner them.
      Is she in your house? There must be an organization in your area that will catch the snake.
      Would you like to be bitten? Then go poke them with a stick. Or try to kill them! Success assured!
      Find out where the best place to go after a bite is closest to your home.
      In Hua Hin that is the state hospital because that is where most antidotes are present.
      If possible, take a picture of the snake that bit you. If the snake is killed, take her with her.
      Don't waste time seeking help. It's not like you're dead after ten minutes either.
      Join a FB group “snakes of…. “. There you can find a lot of information about snakes in your area.
      Toxic or non-toxic or limited toxic.
      And for Thai, all kinds are dangerous and poisonous. Usually they know even less about snakes than you do.

  4. Daniel M. says up

    Dear The Inquisitor,

    I first read your story and then immediately after that Tino's story. That way I can respond to both immediately.

    As I already wrote in my reaction to Tino's story, I would also like to meet snakes in the wild. But at a distance, so that I can photograph them and possibly film them…

    I do look out for snakes and other reptiles in the fields around my parents-in-law's village in Isan, but I hardly ever get to see them. Maybe it's because of the drought, because nowadays I always go from December to January…

    I hate killing animals, but I understand if there is no other way. Sometimes it's kill or be killed.

    At the beginning of your story you mentioned Ecuador and the Amazon. You mentioned rare snakes and a crocodile. But nothing about other types of reptiles… Have you not seen any lizards, salamanders, chameleons, toads, frogs, or other reptiles there? I suppose they are very numerous and colorful there. However?

    Back to the snakes: I rather share Tino's opinion, but I also found your story very fascinating.

    Best regards and enjoy life there!

  5. Dirk says up

    Well written story for a sensational Sunday paper.
    I live in Hua Hin and love snakes.
    In the story, the man is so proud that he can kill snakes. Disgusting.
    And snakes that attack? Larie and monkey cabbage. Unless you disturb them and even worse try to kill them. Yes then. All them on. Like a cat cornered.
    There is one species in Thailand that attacks itself. The Malysian Pit Viper. Frequent presence in Hua Hin and surroundings. In seven years I've been here I've never heard of anyone being bitten let alone killed.
    70 people die from snake bites every year in Thailand. 99% of these are work accidents (farmers, people working in snake farms…), very rarely a tourist.
    Well written story but absolutely no informational value.

    • RobHuaiRat says up

      Dear Dirk, unfortunately your response completely misses the mark. The Inquisitor is not a tourist, but has lived for years in a very remote area in the Isaan. There are many more snakes there than in your TOURIST hometown. There is the need to protect small children and your pets as well as yourself from these dangerous animals. The killing is not disgusting and he is not proud of it, but unfortunately necessary in his situation. The sensation seeker for the Sunday newspaper, it is Dirk.

    • Dieter says up

      Dear Dirk, I have been living in Nongprue for 13 years now, where the Inquisitor used to live, but I stay three times a year for 5-6 weeks in the village where my wife comes from (without all that TM30 stuff, by the way). That village is also located in the Isaan, on the border of Roiet and Surin. I also like snakes and my in-laws know that. So snake is on the menu at least once every time I'm there. Delicious food. Don't ask me what kind of snake because I don't know anything about it. I just know it's tasty.

  6. Erik says up

    The chance that you die in traffic is greater than what you write about here.

    Where we have our house, rural Nongkhai, we ask the people from the village whether a snake is dangerous or not. Everyone here has children and pets and knows what to stay far away from. Only then will the villagers kill, catch or chase them away.

    A python is never killed! Small innocent 'garden snakes' that you can pick up by hand and that live on small insects are saved from the cats because they play so rough that the animals die.

    Animals have a function in our world and if you don't want to see that and just kill because you don't understand it, do you belong in Thailand?

    Incidentally, the Benelux also has snakes, three, of which the viper has a venomous bite. Do you also kill so many animals in your home country?

    • RobHuaiRat says up

      Unfortunately, here too the death eater of the traffic victims. This is not a comparison. It is also a fairy tale that pythons are never killed. In the many years that I have lived in Huai rat-Buriram I have been invited many times by my fellow villagers to eat a captive large python while consuming the necessary bottles of beer.

    • Hans says up

      The chance that you are bitten by a viper in the Netherlands is just as great as dying because you get a meteorite on your head. That is something different in Thailand.

  7. LOUISE says up

    Hi Inquisitor,

    I find snakes and crocodiles very scary animals and will therefore improve the Olympic record if I see one very close.
    I find both extremely suitable for a candy of a bag or light suitcase and for the rest no gene to send those beasts to the afterlife.

    I also can't imagine that people still live in Australia at all.
    They have just about all brands / sizes / lengths of hoses in and around the house and in the heat they seek cooling indoors and with heavy rain they also like to shelter inside.
    The people there talk very casually about it. YUCK!!!!

    I would have a heart attack.

    LOUISE

  8. Peter Young. says up

    Hi Inquisitor
    A mixture of lemon and water to rinse the dog's eyes works well
    After a few days the dog is back to normal
    Unfortunately, I've had to do it several times
    Even bought an eye wash glass
    Gr Peter

  9. Hans Pronk says up

    Tourists are indeed not at risk. If they go out into nature at all, then they are dressed accordingly. The farmers who go into the fields usually wear boots and certainly not slippers and shorts like the farang when he goes into his garden or the surroundings. The farang living in the Isaan is certainly at considerable risk. And snakes usually disappear when they notice you, but not always. I myself have already experienced three times that I only saw a snake when I was 1 to 2 meters away and the snake made no attempt to leave, but just took up an attack position. If I hadn't noticed those snakes in time, they certainly would have struck. And you can safely assume that snakes that don't flee are the venomous ones. Why don't they leave when I come? Maybe because I walk too fast, so they think they can't get away in time. Venomous snakes are usually not that fast, at least according to my wife.
    Why this exaggerated love for nature? That love is really not reciprocated. And even all those delicious fruits that nature provides did not come there by themselves. For example, we have a primeval mango here, but the fruits are really inedible. The world is unlivable for man without human intervention.

  10. Jochen schmitz says up

    Reading all those stories everyone is right. One likes snakes, the other is afraid of them (as in my case) and then the incompetence.
    I do have a small snake in my garden every day and my dog ​​takes over the attention so I'm less afraid of it.
    I don't want to kill these natural phenomena, but sometimes they scare me and you automatically grab a stick to remove the snake and sometimes kill it.
    There is of course also the problem that after a bite from a venomous snake you don't have much time to find an antidote and I think that is why we try to kill or remove these (beauties) too quickly.
    I've seen many snakes in the 25 years I've lived here but I'm always afraid of and that includes me kill or be killed. (incompetence)
    I ask the Thai to help watch out dangerous the greens and the browns and so forth on their part incompetence and no one can help.

  11. Tino Kuis says up

    Nice story from someone who was actually bitten by a snake in Pai paradise:

    https://globalhelpswap.com/bitten-by-a-snake/

    • Hans Pronk says up

      A funny story indeed.

  12. L. Burger says up

    I usually find the stories of the Belgian too romantic.
    I appreciate this story.
    Hatseflats get rid of that mess, people are above animals, especially when children are involved.

  13. Tino Kuis says up

    Inquisitor,

    Killing snakes should be banned. It is also bad for your karma.

    Mosquitoes are much more dangerous, and the most dangerous animal is man.

    But ok, I understand you. In my time as a doctor in Tanzania, I had to do a number of leg amputations after a snakebite. Snake venom comes in varieties, with more generalized or more localized damage.

    • Hans Pronk says up

      You shouldn't just kill snakes. But if they pose a threat to you and your environment, drastic measures are allowed in my opinion. Besides, where the Inquisitor lives (and where I live too) there really isn't a shortage of snakes.
      What's worse for nature anyway? Eating so much that your BMI exceeds 25, for which the necessary jungle in Brazil and Indonesia must of course be burned down or occasionally kill such a serpent? And there are many more comparisons to be made. Everyone has butter on their heads. One just a little more than the other.

    • L. Burger says up

      So, for example, if my child(ren) die of a snakebite, from a snake that I let go, can I safely blame karma?

      • L. Burger says up

        Karma of the animal party

        https://www.telegraaf.nl/nieuws/1704169429/pitbull-overlijdt-nadat-hij-twee-jongetjes-van-giftige-slang-redde

        • Dirk says up

          Very stupid American sensation story.
          – There was a snake agreement.
          – The chance that she would bite the children is 0.0001%
          – If the dog had left them alone, nothing would have happened with a probability bordering on certainty.

          • Hans Pronk says up

            Dirk, you seem a bit fanatical. Unfortunately. By the way, how do you arrive at that 0.0001% chance? Somewhere I read the following: "Children are most often victims of a coral snake bite, as they are attracted by their striking colors". That doesn't seem consistent with your chance. Or is it just an extremely unreliable estimate on your part? What do you actually want to achieve? That snakes don't die out? If they do, it's probably not because they're killed when they get close to homes. No, that happens due to damage to their habitat. And that habitat is still extremely suitable for snakes at the Inquisitor. And me too, by the way. That environment is probably much more suitable for snakes than the environment of your home. So if anyone is to blame, it's not the Inquisitor, it's you.

  14. Erwin Fleur says up

    Dear Serpent (Inquisitor),

    Well thought out story except for the last serpent' which is not very common in Thailand.
    Nice writing and hats off to this story.

    Snakes are not harmless in Thailand! Keep in mind.
    With friendly serpent',

    Erwin

  15. Lung addie says up

    It is not only in Isan that there are snakes. Here in the South, especially in palm oil plantations, snakes are crawling, mostly Cobras. Palm fruit is favorite food for mice and where there are mice you can be sure that there are also snakes because that is their favorite food. Never go into a plantation without knee-high boots because you run a huge risk. I myself have already lost two cats, a dog and a cow that were bitten by a Cobra snake. My cat Joe survived a snakebite after being very ill for a week.
    So I really can't say I like snakes. In and around the house we don't have much trouble because there are three dogs walking around permanently and snakes don't like that. So it must already be a lost specimen that shows here and then there are the dogs that usually know what to do with it. In the plantation we never kill snakes because they provide a natural balance with the other vermin such as rats and mice. They have to stay in THEIR domain or they will die.

  16. Gringo says up

    The serpents are of course not only found in Isaan, but also in Bangkok, for example.
    On Facebook came a nice article from Sky News about the snake catcher of Bangkok

    https://news.sky.com/story/saving-humans-and-beasts-firefighter-pinyo-pukpinyo-is-also-bangkoks-top-snake-catcher-11816560


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