Academic dining in Bangkok

by Joseph Boy

It is almost unbelievable Bangkok has acquired a French-style bistro, listening to the name 4 Garçons. Nothing really special for such a city, were it not for the fact that the chefs are Thai. The gentlemen are not just cooks, but hobby chefs of an academic level.

In the Netherlands there is already a travel agency listening to the name 'Academic Travel', where you can smell culture under the guidance of a literate person. Always have to smile when I see another 'academic advertisement'.

The 4 Garcons

The four guys who run the business are a doctor, two lawyers and a former Captain of Industry. What on earth are those men doing in a restaurant, you ask yourself. Dr. Jurapong Sukhabote is the driving force and has been an avid hobby cook for years. Every evening, after his work as a doctor, he stands behind the stove in the 4 Garçons or can be found in the store to advise his guests. At least that is what is claimed. You can question it. Cooking is something you do with heart and soul and a slightly driven doctor will not be able to manage a restaurant night after night after his day job. You will have to fail in one of those two courses. Or can a doctor and a lawyer come in Thailand don't deserve the salt in the pie and is a restaurant a means to boost the salary a bit?
But the gentlemen seem smart enough to me, don't shy away from publicity and the love will probably be nothing more or less than a financial interest in the business. Or is this a bad thought on my part?

Bangkok Post

In the Bangkok Post of July 2, 2010, a three-quarter page is devoted to the culinary escapades of these four garçons. Now a newspaper must also have something to write about and so-called advertorials - a newspaper article for which you have to pay - are also an important form of income. The relevant article in the Bangkok Post smells like it, because it's all hosanna in the highest what the pot eats. A number of dishes are extensively and highly praised and the price is also always mentioned. Based on that price, the focus is still on a higher segment in the market.

Suspicion

Still get the necessary suspicion when I look at the opening hours. With the exception of Mondays, the business is open every day from 11 a.m. to XNUMX:XNUMX p.m. and during the weekends it even closes at XNUMX:XNUMX p.m. Poor patients and clients of the lawyers in question if these men have to do all this work themselves.
Frankly, I don't believe it at all. That these 'boys' sometimes stir a saucepan, well, but not as a daily job. Seeing is believing, blind Maupie already said at the time.

On investigation

A member of a renowned cooking guild for years, I therefore decided to investigate the cooking skills of the doctor and his legal companions. The business is located on Suhumvit Road Soi 55, so easy to reach by skytrain and get off at the Thong Lo stop. You then have to go to the side street Thong Lo Soi 13, but that is a long walk. The easiest thing is to get on the back of a moped taxi, or to take a taxi anyway. In Soi 13, turn right at the first intersection and after a hundred meters you will find yourself in front of the 4 Garcons.

The place exudes a modern atmosphere and is occupied to the last table on this Friday evening. A very friendly lady asks if I mind eating outside or to wait a while, because a table will soon become available. As a taster, I'll probably have a glass of red Australian Shiraz. Get a nice and well filled glass of excellent quality wine. Soon a table becomes available inside and start there with a warm Foie Gras with a nice port sauce. Excellent! As a main course, the choice falls on Confit de Canard with mashed potatoes and a mustard sauce. With this last order, I get the question whether I prefer a 6 or 12 hour cooking time for the duck. A question I've never been asked before. In this case, choose the longest cooking time. For dessert, I choose a creme brulée. For that last dish one has to learn a bit, but the quality of the two glasses of wine made up for it all. Learn from my waitress that 5 Thai cooks man the kitchen and the doctor is also present there. One of the lawyers mentioned is walking around the restaurant to keep an eye on things. He also comes to this farang to ask if everything is to your liking.

Cost picture

The costs: 3 glasses of wine at 240 baht per glass, Foie Gras 510 baht, Confit de Canard 550 Baht and finally the Crême Brulée 150 baht. Including 10% service and tax, total of the bill 2271 baht.
The restaurant is not cheap by Thai standards. The clientele on this evening, with the exception of this farang, consists only of Thai people, who apparently like to be seen here. After enjoying the otherwise delicious Thai food for a while, this Brasserie & Pâtisserie is a nice change and recommendation. Please book in advance (tel. 027139547)