Thomas Elshout and the cycling monk
While the first leg of my cycling trip to Pattaya was largely over measured asphalt and reinforced concrete, the journey from Bangkok to Ubon in the east had a completely different surface. Although I could also opt for the highways shrouded in smog and waste, this time I opted more often for a considerable number of B-roads.
Gravel, gravel, pebbles and boulders - an average garden center would be jealous of them - were a major challenge for me. Not only the road, also the stories I encountered on it were always unique. I will do my best to give a good impression of this in this report.
In Bangkok, I often have a habit of having a drink in front of a 7-Eleven in the evening. That I'm not the only one was evident from the fact that I met Italian Fabrizio there who asked me to watch his folding bicycle while he went to buy his drink. Once back, all the ingredients for a pleasant conversation were present and that followed.
We shared experiences about cycling in Thailand and when he explained my concept he became so enthusiastic that he decided to cycle from Bangkok to Ayutthaya. An interesting detail is that Fabrizio is not only similar in appearance to The Dude from the film The Hangover, along the way he also turned out to have a similar lifestyle in which rules seem to be non-existent. For example, we have seen a highway prohibited for bicycles while he was navigating.
Ayutthaya
Once in Ayutthaya, you cannot miss the elephants in addition to the beautiful temples. These colossal animals are inextricably linked to Thailand, although their role has changed considerably over the years. Globally, the domesticated elephant used to serve locals in warfare and rural areas and now serve almost exclusively tourism.
This is usually done professionally and skillfully; there is hardly any animal suffering anymore. But what if the elephant is unfit, too old, traumatized or unwilling to work? It is these elephants that are no longer interesting for the tourist industry that Elephantstay takes care of.
For a day I accompanied the people behind this organization. I spoke extensively with volunteer Jenny who, through her own story, empathetically convinced me that elephants are extremely complex and intelligent creatures. Like humans, elephants have their own character and past.
During a stay in the elephant camp you can experience this for yourself as a visitor. You will be cared for a number of days about an elephant that, as far as possible, matches your own character. It was almost magical to see what just riding an elephant does to the caretakers. It is a unique experience to be able to build a bond with such a large animal that transcends the sensory experience, as it were.
Korat
After Ayutthaya, the trip led to Korat where I met Dutchman Robert Notting at his invitation and showed me once again how beautiful a retired life in Thailand can be. But the main reason for my visit to this city was to meet activist Chancha.
Her remarkable appearance is dressed in chic clothing that promotes casual cycling in her city. The vast majority of Thai people prefer to take the car or scooter. The small group that does want to cycle usually does so as a sport and is therefore dressed accordingly. Chancha shows locals that cycling in her city is very nice, even if you are slightly overdressed.
Buriram
The cycling trip continued to Buriram, which according to the Lonely Planet is a “tough sell as a tourist destination”. I seriously wonder what inspired the writer to use this description, but at the same time I have to thank him or her, because it does keep the spoiled tourists away. In a city like Buriram, Surin, Sisaket or Ubon you experience Thailand at its best.
My stay in a hotel like Rinradee Place is a wonderful example of this. Spending the night in a fantastic room followed by a delicious luxury breakfast is already fun in itself, but it will only be really enjoyable if the staff exudes the term hospitality. At many receptions I found all too often a glimpse into cold war, here there was room for a thorough explanation, a good smile and a joke.
In the vicinity of the city of Buriram I visited some beautiful temples, two of which are more than worth mentioning. Phanom Rung Historical Park (pictured) is said to be one of the largest and best-preserved Khmer temple complexes in Thailand and borders Cambodia. The location on a volcanic hill gives a beautiful view of the surrounding area.
Wat Phimai is smaller but no less beautiful. In the information center on site it was even claimed that this temple was a model for the famous Angkor Wat in Cambodia. The fact is that the long stretched avenue towards it produces a beautiful picture.
Bankrupt
To stay in the spheres of the temples for a while, I would like to tell you about the most special meeting to date. I had already heard from other travel stories that you can always turn to a temple for an overnight stay based on a voluntary donation. This in itself is a fantastic experience that I can recommend to everyone, but for me the temple visited was extra special.
Via via I came into contact with a cycling monk who I was fortunate to meet in his temple, Wat Pa Lan Hin Tad. We cycled a bit on the tandem in the beautiful surroundings, after which I carefully listened to his fascinating story (photo home page). As a cycling monk, he is an inspiring example for his immediate environment, but his Buddhist wisdom for life is an inspiration for everyone in this world!
ubon
From the temple in Bankruat I cycled along the border with Cambodia via Sisaket to the city of Ubon. In this groundbreaking ride there were long long stages of up to 130 kilometers per day. The pain in the legs was compensated by beautiful nature. To enjoy it, you better look over the roadsides.
Personally, it is a thorn in my side to see how much plastic walks out of the supermarket and disappears along the road with the greatest of ease. We can learn a lot from the Thai attitude to life, but at this point it is really the other way around.
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I still think it's great Thomas. Would have liked to have done it, but yes; you can't have everything. If you ever come near Si Chomphu or Chum Phae, let me know. Let's have a drink together and if you want to stay the night, here's an invitation. Not on January 11-12-13, because then I will be in BKK for the New Year's reception. And otherwise….. good luck with your tour. Much respect!
Nice those bike adventures and encounters. Didn't attract the attention of the police or other people on the highway? As for those 4 values that the cycling monk promotes (in the article on your blog), I agree with him, although you don't necessarily need religion for that. Wishing you lots of cycling fun and adventure!
Respect for this man and his way of traveling. Because to paddle through Thailand in the heat and sometimes dangerous traffic situations, and sometimes such long stages, that takes courage.
As far as the Lonely Planet is concerned, there are more places in Thailand. which would be a "tough sell" for the tourist who doesn't look beyond his farang nose. And I agree with Thomas, especially keep it that way, it stays nice and quiet in those places.
It is indeed a pity that it is such a mess as far as roadside litter is concerned, but that will require a complete change of mind on the part of the Thais themselves, which I don't see happening for the time being. Their grandchildren will still have to rummage through the mess of previous generations ,am I scared.
Beautiful story and regarding the Lonely Planet I agree with the above writer, the trotters also have such comments.
The garbage problem bothers me all the time, not only in Thailand, but also in Indonesia, where people just throw the garbage in the ditch or ditch next to the house. The plastic and bottles that are thrown along the pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela, and also in the Czech Republic, plastic bottles are found everywhere along the walking routes. Too bad about the landscape that we can borrow.