I like the Old Town, Rattankosin or the island on Chao Phraya River that forms the historical core of Bangkok.

I'm going to tell you a little secret. One of my favorite walks always takes me through the leafy Thanon Phra Athit. A street or rather an avenue that carries in its genes not only the memory of a number of Greats from the rich history of the City of Angels, but also gives an impression of what the city looked like, in my opinion, roughly half a century ago looked. The end point of my walk is always in the small, but oh so nice Santichai Prakani Park. A few years ago there was an old derelict sugar factory here, but now it is a pleasant green lung, where it is pleasant to relax on the banks of the Chao Phraya, in the shadow of the elegant and generous Santichai Prakan pavilion and with a absolutely stunning panorama of the Rama VIII Bridge, in the distance on the right.

The rear of the park is dominated by the recently painted white Phra Sumen Fort, a particularly valuable piece of military-historical heritage. This imposing fortification is one of the oldest buildings in Bangkok and was once part of a ring of no fewer than 14 fortified watchtowers integrated into the city wall to defend Rattanakosin. Today only two of these forts remain: Phra Sumen and Mahakan Fort. Phra Sumen was built in 1783 by order of Rama I to defend the city against attacks from the river. It was the northernmost fortress of the city and stood on a strategically very important place, namely where the Bang Lamphu channel flowed into the Chao Phraya. At the time, this canal formed the boundary of the city island and was in fact the city moat.

The entire fort was built in less than two years from bricks covered with a thick layer of cement. The floor plan is an octagon. The cellars are two meters deep below ground level and there are bombproof ammunition storage areas. The width of the fort from north to south is exactly 45 meters. And the height from the floor of the battlement, the lowest battle terrace to the top of the guard or battle tower is exactly 18.90 meters.

At the center of the fortress is a three-storey heptagonal tower with 38 supply corners where weapons and ammunition could be stored. However, don't be fooled. This is not the original tower. It collapsed sometime during the reign of Rama V. Fortunately, some old photos still existed and the Fine Arts Department expertly rebuilt the thing in 1981, during the restoration of this site. I was told that there is a mini-museum in the tower where a number of archaeological finds are exhibited that were discovered during the restoration. However, I have never seen the entrance gate to the tower open…

Since 1949, Phra Sumen Fort has been a protected national monument.

4 Responses to “One of the oldest buildings in Bangkok: the Phra Sumen Fort”

  1. Tino Kuis says up

    This is also one of my favorite places, Lung Jan.

    Phra Sumen in Thai is พระสุเมรุ (pronunciation phra soe meen, high, low, middle tone) which refers to the sacred mountain Meru, in Hindu thought the center of the world where the gods reside.

    Rattanakosin Island became the new capital in 1782. The Chinese and Vietnamese residents were removed. It was intended that only the royal family, relatives and servants would live on the island. An extensive palace.

  2. Erwin says up

    This place is also one of my favorite place in Bangkok. Came there when I had just married my Thai wife, the Rama VIII bridge was not there yet and later we visited it a lot in the little park on the Chao Phraya on the left looking over the river at the Phra Pin Klao Bridge while sitting with a cold beer and something to eat. Returning later we saw the Rama bridge building and taking on an impressive shape. There were often Thai students there who wanted to have a chat with you, which was always nice and pleasant. Later in the day, a kind of aerobics lesson was often given by a fanatic lady or gentleman from a stage and everyone could participate, from young to old. I also participated with my flexible body, which of course made me laugh with the people. Yes, beautiful memories, I once fantasized about living with my wife in one of those large white flats. But yes, life sometimes turns out differently. But it is and remains a beautiful part of the metropolis of Bangkok. Erwin

  3. You says up

    This is also one of my favorite places in Bangkok.
    In 2006 ever the first at the Biram? Stayed in a hotel, which later became a mad monkey hostel. Now I often sleep at the Chillax diagonally across the street, beautiful swimming pool on top of the hotel and almost opposite Phra Athit (the ferry) as soon as you can easily cross Bangkok and get to the metro.
    (You can also walk towards the metro (chinatown/grand palace) by walking through the university. If I were 15 years younger, I would have gone looking for a study there by now :)
    In the same street of the fort you have a very nice Thai bar, where many locals come and often live music is played.
    A few months ago I discovered a small specialty beer shop opposite the Phra Sumen, friendly people and nice new beers to discover!
    I have a picture, but no idea how to post it :p

  4. You says up

    By the way, next time I am in Bangkok I would also like to try the following hotels:
    Inn a day (quite pricey ;)), Galeria 12, Adagio, Sereine Sukhumvit or Josh hotel 🙂


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