Zvakawanda zvinoshamisa kunze kweBangkok
Bangkok iguta iro mufambi wese weAsia anofanira kuona uye kuona. Mumaruwa kumativi ose Bangkok inozivikanwa zvishoma, asi inoyevedza, semusika unoyangarara muDamnoen Saduak. Kunyangwe kumberi mukati menyika kune mamwe makuru akadai saChangmai anozivikanwa seGolden Triangle.
Avhareji masikati muBangkok ine ruzha. Traffic paSukhumvit Road yakavharwa, asi kunze kwemapurisa mashoma anoridza muridzo, hapana ane hanya, achiziva kuti kushanda basa hazvibatsire zvakadaro. MuGrand Palace, vashanyi vanobva kumativi ese epasi vanobhuya nemiromo yakashama uye nemaziso asingadaviriki vachipfuura zvivakwa zvakashongedzwa neshizha regoridhe uye inopenya enamel.
PaRwizi rweChao Praya rwakafara, zvikepe zvihombe nezvidiki, zvinononoka uye zvinomhanya zvinoungana pamwechete mubhora rine njodzi asi rinonakidza. Vanhu vanobika, vanobika, vanogocha uye vanodya senguva dzose mumigwagwa netsoka dzakazara vanhu, pasina anoita seane hanya nehutsi hunokachidza uye utsi hwemamopedhi nematuk-tuk anopfuura.
Mamiriro eguta reBangkok anokatyamadza uye anonakidza panguva imwe chete. Chinhu chimwe ndechechokwadi: guta iri rinogara sepasina rimwe. Iko hakuna kurongeka uye kutsvinda kweSingapore kana kurangwa kweKuala Lumpur pano. Iri iguta rine hunhu hweanarchist, uko munhu wese anoita zvinoita sezvakanaka kwavari, asingadzivise vamwe zvakanyanya, nekuti hapana hukasha mumigwagwa yakabatikana uye kune kuseka kunoshamisa.
Thais haaite kunge akaremerwa nezvinoonekwa nevekuMadokero senjodzi: mhirizhonga isingaperi yemumigwagwa, mafashama anogara achidzokororwa, kunhuwa, kusvibiswa kwemhepo, kudzikiswa kwemagetsi, unozviita. Mai pen rai ndiyo mhinduro isingatarisirwi kunhamo, kusagadzikana, kushushikana; kushandura se: usanetseka, usanetseka. Mukuwedzera kune imwe fungidziro yakati, inopupurira tarisiro yakasimba yedombo inoratidzika kuva yakatekeshera muiyi nzanga.
Bangkok iguta iro mufambi wese weAsia anofanira kuona uye kuona. Nekuda kwekunhuhwirira (ndataura nevanhu vanoti vanomuziva kana vangotsika paSuvarnabhumi Airport), simba, hushamwari, vanhu vanonyemwerera, mamiriro akanaka. Uye nekuda kweanoshamisa panorama uye zviyeuchidzo zvaungasatarisira, asi izvo zviripo.
Hapana maonero ari nani kupfuura kubva panzvimbo yakakwirira pamusoro perwizi runogara rwakabatikana, kunyanya kumagumo emasikati apo zuva rinotumira mwaranzi yaro yekupedzisira, yegoridhe yero uye inodziya muruvara, pamusoro pemvura, zvikepe zvisingaverengeki uye mazenge ezvivakwa. pamabhanga ese ekutamba.
Pamhanza yangu yehotera gumi nenomwe kumusoro kwerukova, ndinonzwa sekunge ndiri kuyangarara pamusoro peruzha, ndabviswa kubva pasirese pazasi, asi panguva imwe chete ndinoziva kuti ndiri mumwe nerima iri, risinganzwisisike, riri kurira, squirming colossus kupinda. madaro ane mhute, iro Guta reNgirozi rinosimbisa zvinoshamisa (Khrung Thep) rinotaurwa.
Bangkok, kunyanya paunotanga kuuya, iguta rinovhiringidza. Asi zvakare guta rinokatyamadza, rinofamba, rinogara newe uye iro pane imwe nguva rinokuita kuti unzwe uchisuwa kumba, zvisinei kuti zvinganzwika sei. Nostalgia yezvisingagoneki zvivakwa zvakanaka zvemahoro uye temberi muGreat Palace, uko kunogara kwakabatikana, kuve nechokwadi, asi uko kunewo makona akanyarara kuti unakirwe nekunatswa kupindirana kwemitsara, mavara akakwenenzverwa uye pendi isina kujeka.
Nostalgia yetemberi dzinoshamisa kana dzinoshamisa dzepedyo uko, mushure mekubatikana nekupisa kweguta, nzvimbo dzinotonhorera uye mhepo inoyera inodururwa pamusoro pako sekugeza kunozorodza. Nostalgia yevatambi vanotamba vane nyasha dzisingaverengeki vane mafambiro anoyerera anomutsa nyika yekushanduka-shanduka uye kukwenenzvera kusati kwamboitika, zvichireva tsika dzechinyakare uye mhando dzemhando yepamusoro dzebudiriro. Nostalgia yehari inonyunguduka iri guta iri uye zviso zvakawanda zvarinoratidza.
Around Bangkok
Dzimwe nguva Bangkok yakandiwandira, saka ndinofanira kutiza kubva mukupopota, mhomho, ruzha. Tarisa runyararo rwemaruwa, uko kufamba kunononoka uye mhepo yakachena. Kumusika unoyevedza unoyangarara muDamnoen Saduak; zviri nani mangwanani-ngwanani kana kusati kwave vashanyi, nekuti ipapo pazvakanakisa uye iwe une manzwiro ekuti zvese zvinoitika ndezvechokwadi.
Ini ndinoda kutsvaga nzvimbo pane rimwe bhiriji uye, nemaoko angu pabhenji, tarisa vatengesi vakadzi vanofamba pasi pako muzvikepe zvavo zvakatakura miriwo, michero, hove, mbatya kana zvinhu zvemumba, vachiedza kukufadza. nenyemwerero yavo inotapira.vakwezve kuti vakwire nepakati peiyi maze ine mavara kana kuti vape chikafu chinonaka chavanenge vagadzira pazasi pechikepe chavo.
Paunenge uchidzoka iwe unozongoerekana wasvika muNakhon Pathom, pane hombe, yeyero yegoridhe chedi (yakaita sebhero chiyeuchidzo) chawakaona ichikwira pamusoro pezvinhu zvese zviri kure. Icho chimiro chekare chinorayira ruremekedzo, nguva dzose yakakomberedzwa nevafambi nemamongi uye ine mifananidzo inofadza uye zvivezwa zvandaigona kupedza maawa ndichitarisa. Nzvimbo yakanaka yekudya nekunwa mumumvuri wemiti yakare, ine gnarled, zvibvumire kufanotaura nezveramangwana kana kungorota kure mukupisa kwemasikati.
Wobva wapihwa simba idzva, shanyira Rose Garden, uko vechidiki vane shungu vanoratidza zvakasiyana-siyana zvetsika dzeThai, kubva kumadhanzi echinyakare kusvika kumapfekero enzou uye kubva kuhunyanzvi hwekugadzira maoko kuenda kuhunyanzvi hwekudzivirira. Munzvimbo iyi yakasvibira iri pakati pemapagoda anoyevedza, maokideki anotumbuka nomufaro uye madziva akazara negold carp, guta guru, riri pedyo chaizvo, rinoita semamaira kure.
Asi Damnoen Saduak, Nakhon Pathom uye Rose Garden haisiriyo yega nzvimbo dzerwendo kana Bangkok yakawandisa kwauri. Kune matongo asinganzwisisike eAyuthaya, iro raimbove guta guru reiyo panguva iyoyo rainzi Siam, uye kune Bang Pa-In, yaichimbova zhizha kugara kwemhuri yehumambo, uko temberi diki inosimuka pakati pedziva rakazara nemaruva elotus. , yakatetepa uye ine nyasha zvekuti unotofanira kuenda unozviongorora nekuda kwaizvozvo.
Idzo dzese nzvimbo dzakanaka dzakatenderedza guta guru reThai dziri nyore kusvika, uri wega kana kurongeka. Kunenge kune ese masangano ekufambisa uye in Hotels yakasimbiswa madhisiki ekushanyira iwe unogona kubhuka nzendo dzakarongeka. Imwe yeanonyanya kufarirwa irwendo rwezuva kuenda kuBang Pa-In uye Ayuthaya, uko rwendo rwekunze rwunoitwa nebhazi uye rwendo rwekudzoka nechikepe chemhando yepamusoro chesaloon paChao Prya. Kana kuti zvakasiyana, asi izvozvo hazvikanganisi rwendo rwacho.
Chang Dao's jumbos
Asi Tairendi inopfuura Bangkok nenzvimbo dzakaripoteredza, saka panouya nguva apo semufambi unofuratira guta wopinda munyika uchitsvaga zvimwe zvakanakisa. Semuenzaniso, kuChiangmai nenzvimbo iri kuchamhembe kwayo, iyo inonzi Golden Triangle.
Chiangmai pachayo haina kunyanya kukoshesa kuona, kunze kwekunge iri musika wehusiku unofadza uko zvese zvinotengeswa izvo munhu anogona kufungidzira uye zvakawanda izvo munhu aisaziva nezvazvo. Asi pano, zvakare, guta inzvimbo yakanaka yekuonekwa munzvimbo iyi: tembere yeDoi Suthep, iri pamusoro pechikomo, misha iri munzvimbo iyo vanhu vese vari kuita imwe uye yakafanana fomu yehunyanzvi, seWoalia. (silverware) uye Borsang (maamburera), uye musasa wenzou paChang Dao.
Iwe unofanirwa kuve nehukama hwenzou kuti utende zvizere Chang Dao, asi ndiani asingadaro? Musasa uri kunze kwemugwagwa unoenda kuchamhembe munzvimbo yesango. Kuti uende ikoko unofanirwa kuyambuka Rwizi rwePing kuburikidza nebhiriji rinomira rinoputika, asi iwe uriwo pakati pepachyderms vanoratidza zvavanogona kuita nemuti wemuti.
Nemutarisiri pamitsipa yawo yakafara (varume verudzi rweKaren vanokura nemhuka mukuitarisira uye vanogara nayo kwoupenyu hwavo hwose), hofori dzejumbo dzinotakura hunde dzomuteki dzine mutobvu sokunge matavi, uye apo basa rinowanawo. inorema inofungidzirwa semhuka yega, inogamuchira rubatsiro kubva kune avo vanoshanda pamwe chete kuti basa riitwe. Zvichakadaro, vechiduku vanotenderera nemhuka dzakura, vachipota vachiswedera pedyo nevashanyi vaine tarisiro yekubata bhanana riya ravainhuwa kare risati rabuda mubhegi ravo kana mubhegi ravo.
Mushure mekuratidzwa kwebasa rakaoma mumasango, iyo nzou idzi dzakashandiswa, chikamu chakanakisisa chechiratidzo chinotevera: kugeza murwizi. Mumutsara wakareba zvikara zvinonanaira zvichidzika kumvura isina kudzika inopenya muzuva uye, kana zvangove pakati porukova, zvinoumburuka kumativi adzo nomufaro unoratidzika, pashure pacho vagadziri vacho vanodzigeza nokunaya kukuru.
Nzvimbo yejecha muMekong
Yaigara ichifunga kuti zita reGolden Triangle raireva nzvimbo iyo nyika nhatu dzeAsia - Thailand, Myanmar (Burma) neLaos - dzinosangana uye dzaive nemukurumbira wakashata wekutengesa opium, iyo yakagara iri iyo huru yekuwana mari (uye izvo zvinoenderana nevari mukati. , zviri nag, kunyangwe semuenzi hauzvione).
Asi zita racho rinoita serinobva kumwewo: kubva kumahombekombe ejecha muRwizi rweMekong, runopenya segoridhe kana zuva rabuda pariri. Iri jecha, iro rine chimiro chetriangular, riri panoyerera Rwizi rweMae Sai ruchipinda muMekong uye ndiyo zvakare nzvimbo yaunogona kuona dunhu renyika nhatu uchingotarisa.
Sezvinowanzoitika, miganhu haina kujeka. Ndiri mukamuri rangu muhotera yeBaan Boran, iri pamusoro pechikomo, ndinotarisa pamusoro penzvimbo yesango, ine machakwi ichiri yeThailand, mukuwedzera kune dziva rekushambira reumbozha. Ipapo kune nhete yeMae Sai, inoteverwa neimwe nzvimbo yakakwirira, panguva ino Burmese, pashure payo Mekong yakafara inorembera mberi zvishoma, ine makomo eLaos seri kwawo.
Mangwanani-ngwanani, iyi nyika yose inonyura mumhute chena kubva pairi miti iri yoga inosimuka sezvipoko zvakaonda. Munyika iyoyo yakatetepa, isiri yechokwadi unombonzwa kuchema kweshiri kana kuti kurira kwemotor proa pasina shiri kana igwa pacharo richionekwa. Kana mhute yasimuka, upenyu hwemumamisha hunotanga zvishoma nezvishoma.
MuSop Ruak, pedyo neGolden Triangle, vabati vehove vari kugadzirira kurova rwizi, zvitoro zviri kuvhura mikova yavo uye vashanyi vekutanga vari kufamba-famba vachipfuura zvitoro zvezviyeuchidzo zvishomanana kana kutarisa pamusoro perwizi rukuru rwuri pakati nepakati pano. mupunga kubva kumakomo eTibet kusvika kumuromo muVietnam. Kubva mhiri kwemvura, kurira kwakajeka kwebhero retembere yeLaoti kunopinda muno.
Kutengeserana pabhodha
MuMae Sai, iri kure kure, haina dhiri. Musha uyu une muganho wekuyambuka neMyanmar uye unoratidza maitiro ese eguta remuganho mukati meSoutheast Asia. Guruva rakawanda uye ruzha mumugwagwa chete unotaridzika semusika muhombe, unogumira pabhiriji rine chipingamupinyi, mureza pamusoro payo uye dzimba dzakapendwa dzakasvibira dzine mapurisa akapfeka yunifomu anofanirwa kuona kuyerera kwevanofamba netsoka, vanotasva bhasikoro, vatyairi verickshaw nemarori vanobata.
Chiverengero chavagari vemo sezviri pachena chinogona kuyambuka muganhu pasina chinetso; semutorwa ndinofanira kumhan'ara kune imwe kaunda iyo yakakora yetsika murume anotarisisa pasipoti yangu, otora madhora mashanu obva ashaya hanya neni.
Ndisinganetseki ndinofamba nemurukova rwevayambuka muganhu, tora mufananidzo wemhomho yakandikomberedza uye ipapo ndiri kuMyanmar, mumusha wemuganhu weTha Khi Lek kunyatsojeka. Zvinhu zvishoma zvinobuda pachena: traffic inongoerekana yatyaira kurudyi rwemugwagwa zvakare uye kunyora kwecuneiform pane kushambadzira uye zviratidzo zvinotaridzika zvakasiyana pane muThailand. Asi ndipo panoperera misiyano; kune vamwe Tha Khi Lek ingori kutengeserana.
Musika wakavhurika unotanga pakarepo pazasi pebhiriji, iro rakakura zvekuti unogona kurasika uye uko chaiko kunotengeswa zvinhu zvese: zvinhu kubva kuChina neThailand, asiwo kubva kuEurope neAustralia, Chinese whisky, zvipfeko, masutukesi, mishonga, zvinonhuwira. , kuvezwa kwemapuranga, fenicha uye kunyange doro reDutch.
Boka rekutenga nekutengesa riri kutoita ruzha rwega, asi sezviri pachena izvo hazvina kukwana; kuwedzera mitambo, magudza makuru akaiswa pano neapo, achiparadzira norupo ma<em>decibel pamisoro yedu. Vanhu vacho vanoratidzika kuva varombo kupfuura vavakidzani vavo veThai, asi vairatidzika kuva neushamwari uye vachinyemwerera kusvikira dutu rine njodzi rarova nyika yavo nguva pfupi yadarika.
Pandinobva pamusika, mumwe munhu anondiratidza kuti ndinofanira kushanyirawo temberi chena iri pamusoro pechikomo chiri pamusoro pemusha. Ndinotarisa kumusoro ndisina chokwadi uye murume wacho anonzwisisa kuti ndinotya mutambo wekukwenya. Anobva anongedzera nechiso chinopenya pane imwe moped yakamira pamuti uye pave paya tinotyaira tichikwidza nekutinhira. Mubairo ndiwo maonero akanaka pamusoro pemataundi maviri emuganhu, rwizi rwakamanikana runomonereka nepakati, bhiriji rine chipingamupinyi uye ose ane mavara anozununguka akaipoteredza.
Vanhu vekumakomo
Kuchamhembe nekuchamhembe kwakadziva kumadokero kweThailand ndiko kunogara madzinza akasiyana anonzi "madzinza ezvikomo" kuti zvive nyore. Pakazara, izvi zvine chekuita nevanhu vangangosvika mazana mashanu ezviuru vasingataure Thai pekutanga uye vanogona kutorwa semadzinza madiki. Aya ndiwo madzinza anosiyana zvakanyanya maererano nezvipfeko, chitendero, mararamiro uye mararamiro.
Semuyenzaniso, mune mumwe musha - pakati peYaos muPha Dua, semuenzaniso - inzvimbo inopenya uye yakanyanya kuchena ine maruva akawanda nedzimba dzeshenjere dzinochengetwa zvakanaka, kuchenesa vakadzi nevana vane chitarisiko chakanaka, uku kuAkhas zvishoma. kuenderera mberi kwemhepo kunenge kwakasviba; musha wacho mune imbwa dzine tsvina uye dzakaonda uye varume vanorarira vanongotenderera pose pose.
Mazhinji emarudzi ezvikomo akauya kuno achibva kuChina kare kare, asi kumusoro mumakomo ndinosangana nenzvimbo inogara vanhu vakatiza kubva kuChina nguva ichangopfuura iyi, panguva yekutora kutonga kwemakomonisiti muna 1949. Vazhinji vane Thai nyika, asi pakati pavo vanotaura mandarin yenyika yavo. Musha wavo, Mae Salong, uri panzvimbo yakakwirira ye1800 metres ine mapindu etii akakura kumativi ese.
Pakubvunza zvinoonekwa kuti kune yakawanda yemisha yeChinese munzvimbo iyi. Neminda yavo neminda yemiti, vanoumba nzvimbo yakasvibira munzvimbo yemakomo inoratidzika kuva dongo inoratidzika kuva yakatambura kutemwa nemarudzi ezvikomo anokura opium. Basa rekudyara masango rakatanga pano neapo, asi zviri pachena kuti richiri kutanga.
Kuvhunduka kwetsika kwakamirira pakudzoka kuBangkok. Kana uchinge wajaira kunyarara uye runyararo rwemaruwa, ruzha rusingaregi uye ruzha rweguta guru rinowira pamusoro pako. Kushuva kwemasango makuru, misha yakadzikama, minda yakasvibira mupunga yakati nyoro nekuti mutyairi wangu wetekisi anotiudza nekuzvikudza kuti, sevamwe vaaishanda navo, haabvi kuBangkok, asi kubva kuIsan, kure kuchamhembe kwakadziva kumabvazuva uko upenyu hune nhanho yakasiyana zvikuru uye zvaanotaura kuti anoshuva zuva riri rose.
Munyori: Henk Bouwman (www.reizenexclusive.nl/)