Dick Koger anoenda kuCambodia

Makore makumi mana apfuura, pamwe nemitsara yekutaura kunozivikanwa "kutanga kuona Naples, wozofa", ndaive nezvinangwa zviviri mupfungwa. Zvinangwa zvangu chete hazvina kusanganisira Naples. Ndakaona nzvimbo iyi kare kare. Izvo zvine chekuita nemapiramidhi muEgypt uye Angkor Wat.

Makore makumi maviri apfuura ndakasiya chinangwa chekutanga. Mhosva yangu, saka ndingadai ndisina kutamira kuThailand. Asi iyo Angkor Wat haina kumbobvira yasiya zviroto zvangu. Rwendo rwekuenda kuCambodia runofanira kundipa rusununguko rwekuchinjanisa zvenguva pfupi zvekusingaperi. Panguva imwe chete, regai nditaure kuti Buddha akasarudza zvakasiyana. Mazuva matanhatu muCambodia haana kundisvitsa kutemberi yakakurumbira.

Shanyira Immigration mazuva mashoma usati wasimuka. Nefomu rakapedzwa uye makopi emapeji akakodzera epasipoti yangu. Kune vanhu makumi matatu nevapfumbamwe pamberi pangu, saka zvinotora nguva, asi chokwadi ndinowana chitambi chinodiwa. Zvirinani zve39 baht. MuSiam Commercial Bank ndinoda kuchinjanisa imwe Baht nemadhora, nekuti izvo zvingave zvakakosha muCambodia. Handikwanise, nekuti ndinofanira kuaodha pachine nguva. Ipapo hapana madhora.

Tinobuda neshamwari shanu dzechiDutch. Nguva isati yakwana nguva dzepfumbamwe ndakamirira pamberi pemufesi. Ndiri kutarisira kombi, asi imota hombe. Kana tasimudza munhu wese, hatisi kugara zvakanaka, takatakura mikwende pamakumbo edu. Hapana dambudziko, tiri pazororo. Maawa gumi nemaviri tiri paDon Muang, iyo yekare airport yeBangkok. Patinopfuura nepacheki yebhegi, chimwe chinhu chinoitika kwandiri chinondirwadza chaizvo.

Muna 1971 ndakaenda kuIndia kwemwedzi mitanhatu uye shamwari dzakandipa mudziyo unoshanda: ndiro yesimbi yakaenzana nekadhi rechikwereti rakakora kaviri. Akaita sesaha kune rimwe divi, banga kune rimwe divi. Kuvhura kwakashanda sekuvhura bhodhoro. Uye mamwe maitiro mashoma. Mhosva yakaipoteredza yaivawo nechidimbu chemica muchimiro che lens, iyo yaunogona kubatidza moto nerubatsiro rwezuva. Kunyange zvazvo ndisati ndacheka kana kucheka zvakanyanya, bhodhoro rinovhura ragara richishanda. Kubva pandakawana mudziyo uyu, ndagara ndiinawo. Iti 12.000 mazuva. Izvo zvinogadzira chisungo. Fanny pack yangu inopinda nemuchina weX-ray uye ipapo zvikamu zvisere zvese zvinotariswa zvakanyatsonaka natete vane hofori. Kadhi rangu rechikwereti rinoburitswa nekukunda. Pakarepo gandanga riri mandiri rinozivikanwa. Hazvina mhosva kuti ndinokumbira uye kupokana kuti ini handigone kurovera ndege neizvi, hazvibatsire. Mumwe wangu akatendeka anofanira kusara. Zvimwe zvacho ndezvekuti handibhururuke newe.

Mushure meawa nehafu tinodzika paPnom Penh airport. Visa inoita madhora makumi maviri uye tekisi kuenda kuhotera yedu madhora 20. Saka madhora, imwe mari haigamuchirwi, ndoda yeCambodian Riel. MuHotera Tune, umo isu vatatu tinodzika musasa, tinogashira chinwiwa chinogamuchirwa, jira rakatonhodzwa rezvinwiwa, makiyi ekamuri yedu uye kero yeWiFi. Yatova 10:XNUMX masikati. Isu tine chinwiwa muresitorendi, kwaunofanirawo kubhadhara mumadhora. Iwe unowana shanduko, idiki pane dhora, muCambodian Riels. Nezviuru panguva. Ndinozvitora nyore, shamwari dzangu mbiri dzepahotera dzinoenda kuhotera yevamwe vatatu. Mukamuri mangu iyo yakapihwa WiFi password haishande, saka hapana Internet.

Chisvusvuro nenguva yechinomwe. Izvi zvakanaka ne buffet yakakura, yekumabvazuva nekumadokero. Indaneti inoshanda muimba yekutandarira, saka ndinoona kutepfenyura kwe'De slimste mens' ikoko. Half past ten tinoenda netuktuk kune imwe hotera. Inonzi Grand Mekong uye yakatarisana neMekong, asi neimwe nzira haina kukura asi idiki. Tuktuk pano haigone kufananidzwa neiyo muBangkok. MuBangkok kune vanhu vaviri uye hapana maonero kunze kwekunge waisa musoro wako pamabvi ako. Pano kune vanhu vana, vaviri vakatarisa mberi uye vaviri kumashure. Traffic ine bongozozo, hapana zano rekuti ndiani ane kodzero yekufamba pamharadzano yakaenzana.

Tinotamba zambuko, tinodya, tinotamba zambuko uye tinodya. Kudya kwemanheru mune imwe nzvimbo yekudyira yechiFrench yakanakisa. Ndichadya tartare steak inonaka. Zvishoma nezvishoma zviri kujeka kwandiri kubva munhaurirano kuti hapana anoda kuenda kuAngkor Wat. Kure nemugwagwa, kudhura zvakanyanya nendege. Zviri nyore kubhururuka zvakananga kubva Bangkok kuenda kuSiem Reap. Zvose ichokwadi, asi hapana chinonditadzisa. Hazvinakidze ndega, saka ndinofanira kubvuma kuti kufa hakuna mazviri. Ndadzoka kuhotera, ndakatarisana nenyaya yekuti kumba handina girazi rakareba. Kuona muviri wangu hakundifadzi. Zvinoita sei kuti Thais haana dambudziko pano. Muchokwadi, pane chete mushonga wekuchembera uye kuderera kwemuviri: kutamira kuThailand.

Chisvusvuro padenga remba, Munhu akachenjera kupfuura vamwe vose paimba yekutandarira. Maawa gumi kuenda kuGrand Mekong Hotel. Hapana bhiriji, asi nemumwe wangu wepabhiriji, Fred, tiri kuenda kuNational museum. Zvifananidzo zvakawanda zveBuddha. Chinhu chinonakidza ndechekuti nyika yega yega ine yayo Buddha yakanaka. China mukomana akakora akapfava, Thailand murume wechidiki anoyevedza, anenge mukadzi, uye Cambodia chimiro chakati chechetere, chine rustic. Chivako umo miziyamu irimo ndicho chakanyanya kunaka kwazvo. Yakavakwa muchikwere yakatenderedza gadheni rakakura.

Kuti tidzikamise tsika dzechiCambodian, ngatizvitorei kuWat Bottum Vattey, temberi hombe pamepu. Hazvinakidze, zvese zvitsva zvekuvaka. Gare gare ndichanzwisisa kuti Buddhism yakarambidzwawo panguva yeKhmer Rouge hurumende. Saka matemberi akakosha akavakwa chete mushure me1980. Tinokumbira mutyairi weTuktuk kuti atityaire tichitenderedza Phnom Penh nekufunga kwake. Nokuzvikudza anotiendesa kuchitsuwa chiri muMekong chine mahofisi ezvivakwa zvitsva asina munhu. Zvakare horo yedhorobha nyowani uye chiteshi chitsva chemoto. Ndinonzwisisa kudada kwake, asi izvi hazvisi izvo zvataifunga. Tinodya muPizza Hut, kwete yeCambodian chaiyo, asi inonaka.

Muhotera tinotaura nereception nezvekuwedzera husiku hutatu hwatakabhadhara. Izvo hazvina kana chokwadi, asi mitengo iri kukwira. Kubudirira kune musoro kuMabvazuva. Kubhurocha kuburikidza neInternet hakubatsire, nekuti inotaura chokwadi kuti hapasisina makamuri. Vanoda kutipa nzvimbo iri nani yemutengo wepamusoro. Ndichaiwana nhasi Kumberi uye kaviri saizi. Hazvina kukosha, asi muimba ino ndinogamuchira Internet isina kukanganisa. Bridge muGrand Mekong. Ndinodzokera kuhotera ndega ndonorara zvakanaka.

Mangwanani ndinoona final yeDe slimste mens in my bed. Zvandinofarira zvinohwina, kunyangwe nemasekonzi mashoma. Imba yekudya kwemangwanani yakabatikana zvekuti hafu yekupihwa haipo, kusanganisira maforogo nemagirazi. Usazvinetse, ndichapora. Gare gare tinotyaira kudzokera kune imwe hotera. Pane misiyano mikuru pakati peThailand neCambodia. Pano vanotyaira kurutivi rworudyi rwomugwagwa, kunyange zvazvo vasinganyanyisi: nokuda kwenhambo pfupi vanhu havayambuki. Isu hatione marori ekunhonga pano, muThailand 80% yemotokari ndeyemhando iyi. Ndasuwa 7-Eleven zvakanyanya pano.

Isu tiri vaviri tinoenda kune imwe nzvimbo yekutengesa. Huru uye hwoumbozha. Gare gare ndinodya muto wehanyanisi muresitorendi yechiFrench. Ipapo isu tese tinoenda kumusika mukuru muPnom Penh. Yakanaka kupfuura mall. Kungofamba pakati pezvitauro zvakawanda zvakavharwa kwakaoma. Ndinonzwa kuti handikwanisi kuramba ndichidaro. Sezvineiwo ndinogona kusvika ku tuktuk yedu ndotaura nemutyairi anofadza aripo. Kana kuti anotaura. Ane mukomana wokune imwe nyika, uyo ave achimuitira zvakanaka kwazvo iye nemhuri yake kwemakore. Shamwari iyoyo mudzidzisi asina kuroora we48 uye anogara muRotterdam. Murume wacho angadai akaita heart attack and after operation yake haachawanikwi. Ndinovaudza kuti ndakaberekerwa muRotterdam. Izvo zvinogadzira chisungo, asi ini handikwanise kumubatsira. Rimwezve zambuko muresitorendi iri paMekong ndobva ndaenda kunorara.

Nhasi ndiri ndega muimba yemangwanani. Ndiko kumwe kunyanyisa. Fred neni tinoenda kuGrand Mekong kwenguva yakati, asi usagarako kwenguva refu. Chidzidzo chenhoroondo nhasi. Kutanga iyo inonzi Manda eKuuraya. Mukati mekutonga kweKhmer Rouge muma3.000.000, vanhu 8.000.000 XNUMX XNUMX muvaCambodia XNUMX XNUMX XNUMX vakapondwa. Nekuti vaisawirirana nehurumende. Nokuti vakanga vane njere. Nekuti vaipfeka magirazi. Nokuti vanoverenga mabhuku. Nokuti vaiva maBhudha. Maguta aipesana nehunhu hwevanhu. Saka vaifanira kukuturwa. Munhu wose aifanira kuenda kumaruwa.

Hazvitsananguriki kuti mumwe mupengo avhundutsa sei nyika. Hitler aityisa nekuda kwezviito zvake zvekurwisa maSemite, Pol Pot akauraya vanhu vake. Iyo Killing Minda muPhnom Penh ingori imwe yezviuru. Pamadhora matanhatu munhu wese anowana mahedhifoni nemudziyo uyo, kwatiri muchiDutch, unotsanangura zvine hungwaru zvakaitika pano. Rori dzakazara nevanhu vokuCambodia “vasina kururama” dzakaunzwa kuno ndokupondwa zvoutsinye. Muti unorangarira kuti vana vairohwa nemisoro yavo ndokuurawa pamberi paamai vavo. Vose vakafa vakanyangarika mumakuva akawanda. Pakati penzvimbo pakaiswa stupa hombe ine madehenya ezvitunha zvakacherwa kuseri kwegirazi.

Uye nyika haina kuita chinhu. Mushure meizvi tinoenda kuchirangaridzo chechipiri chenguva iyi inotyisa, chikoro chekutambudza. Kirasi yega yega yakamiswa sekamuri rekutambudzira uye kutambudza kunoreva kurwadzisa. Pazasi pane mamwe mafoto anoita mazwi akawandisa.

Isu taiziva nhoroondo, asi kuona zvinotyisa izvi chete kunoita kuti uzive kuti iyi yanga iri nhamo. Pol Pot akangofira kumba. Takazodzokera kuhotera ndikagarako zuva rose.

Mangwana acho ndinotanga ne 'De Wereld Draait Door', kutepfenyura kwekutanga kwemwaka mutsva. Zvadaro chinyorwa chekutanga chePauw. Iyi hurukuro yekuratidzira inoda kurerutswa zvishoma, nekuti kutanga uku kunobhowa. Tinotamba bhiriji kwezuva rose. Kuma four ndinodzokera kuhotera. Mikana yangu yepanyama yakaganhurirwa zvakadaro, nekuti ndinonzwa kuneta. Haikwanise kufona kumba. Nharembozha yangu inoita seinoshandiswa muThailand chete.

Zuva rokupedzisira. Kutanga Pauw (ikozvino kunakidza zvishoma), ipapo De Wereld Draait Door. Marjolein, shamwari yekare yokuPattaya, yava kugara muno, anouya kuzotamba zambuko. Tinodya masikati uye tokwira tekisi kuenda kuairport. 6.30 am tiri muBangkok, 9 am kudzoka kuPattaya. Ndinovhara gedhi rebindu zvine ruzha nemaune. Pakarepo chiso chinonyemwerera chaNoth, mwanakomana ane makore gumi okukura wemhuri, anooneka ari kuseri kweketeni. Anobhururuka achienda kugonhi, orivhura ndokusvetukira mumaoko angu. Kwapera kanguva ndinomubvunza kana pave paine dambudziko muvhiki rapfuura. Nechiso chakakomba anoti: “Hungu, mazuva ose, nokuti zuva nezuva hapana Dick.” Anobva aputika nekuseka.