Uta haugone kugara wakazorora (Chikamu 4)

John Wittenberg anopa akati wandei fungidziro parwendo rwake kuburikidza neThailand, izvo zvakamboburitswa mupfupi nyaya muunganidzwa 'The Bow haigone kugara yakasununguka' (2007). Zvakatanga kuna John sekutiza kubva kumarwadzo nekusuwa zvakura kuita kutsvaga zvinoreva. Buddhism yakazova nzira inofambika. Kubva zvino zvichienda mberi, nyaya dzake dzichaonekwa nguva dzose paThailandblog.

Nyika itsva

Iye zvino ndiri kuLaos. Laos iri pakati peVietnam neThailand uye inoganhurana neChina kuchamhembe. Mamirioni matanhatu vagari vemo, ukuru hweEngland uye nehuori kusvika pakati. America yakabhomba nyika iyi nerubatsiro rwenhandare dzendege dzeThai kwemakore, avhareji yemakirogiramu mazana mashanu ebhomba pamugari wega wega. Vagari veThai vanotarisira pasi varombo veLaos. Ndinovanzwa vachinyunyuta pamusoro pevapoteri vehupfumi muThailand. Ndinofunga nyika imwe neimwe inoda kunyange nyika ine urombo kuti izvidzivirire kubva kune vapoteri vehupfumi. Sezvineiwo, budiriro yeThailand yakanyanya kukonzerwa nemari inogamuchirwa kubva kuAmerica yekubvumidzwa kushandisa nhandare dzendege, asi haunzwe muThai nezvazvo.

Uyezve zvemuganho zvimiro, zvakanyanya kushanda. Unosaidzira pasipoti yako pasi pekamwe kadiki wobva waona karuoko kadiki kachioneka, kachinongedzera muChirungu chisina gwapa kuti ubhadhare madhora makumi matatu nerimwe kana gumi nemazana mashanu baht (makumi maviri kubva muzana yakawandisa). Kamwe mari yagamuchirwa, iwe uchanzwa mamwe mabhanhire (iwe hapana chauchaona) uye ruoko irworwo zvakare kuenda kune inotevera counter. Ipapo, mabhengi mashoma nemakaunda mberi, ndinodzosera pasipoti yangu uye ndofamba ndichiyambuka bhodha ndisina kutariswa, ndichinetseka kuti mari yese yaenda kupi.

Ndinotsvaka kombi uye ndinomirira nokushivirira kusvikira kombi yazadzwa nevamwe vatakurwi. Vese vakazara nezvinhu zvinobva kumusika uye vanonditarisa nguva dzese, ndinongonyemwererawo zvinyoro. Kwandiri kuenda iguta rePakse, taundi repurovhinzi rinofinha zvikuru. Nekuti inguva refu yekupera kwevhiki, handikwanise kuwana chero imba yemahara. Pakupedzisira ndinowana imba ine mhute, asi hapana chimwe. Ingorumanisa mazino ako.

Zuva rakatevera zvakare nekombi yekuenda kwandiri: Wat Phu Champasak, temberi yakanaka kubva muzana ramakore rechigumi nembiri, yakasarudzwa senhaka yetsika neUnesco. Zvechokwadi inzvimbo yakaisvonaka, rwendo rurefu runoenda kumuzinda, kubva ipapo staircase yakakwirira ine matanho makumi manomwe nemanomwe inotungamirira kuimba yepakati. Mariri mune chifananidzo chakaisvonaka cheBuddha chegoridhe. Ndinokotama katatu, kamwe kuna Buddha, kamwe kudzidziso dzake, uye kamwe kuvateveri vake. (ndichakotamirawo rinhiko kechitatu ndinoshamisika).

Iwe unogona kuita chido uye kana iwe ukakwanisa kusimudza dombo rinorema kwazvo, chido chako chichapiwa. Dombo revakadzi ndeyechokwadi, kusaruramisira, hafu yakareruka. Zvinondiyeuchidza nezve tei yevakadzi ine gorofu.

Imba yakanaka yepakati yakashongedzwa zvakashongedzwa nemamotifs, vanotamba, zvimiro zvengano uye Garudas. Seri kwayo kune masitepisi anoenda kudombo uko mvura yave ichinyura kwemazana emakore. Mount Phu Pasek idzvene uye mvura yakatonyanya kuyera. Inounganidzwa mumabhodhoro epurasitiki kubva mugomba repurasitiki. Huyai, itai kuti mvura ive tsvene, asi kwete nehupenzi hwakadaro hwepurasitiki, ndingati. Maoko angu ari kukwenya angave akanyanya nyore pakutengesa, asi chokwadi ndinozvidzora nekuti ndiri pazororo izvozvi.

Laos murombo chaizvo, kunyangwe zvinoshamisa kuti ndinobhadhara mutengo wakafanana wekudya uye kurara sezvakaita muThailand. Ndinofunga kuti imhaka yokuti ndakapiwa kuvaHedheni (vaJudha tete vatete vangu vangadai vakataura) pano. Ndinobhadhara ne200.000 bath note (makumi maviri euros) uye ndinowana anenge XNUMX kip mukudzoka, kuwedzera kwekudya kwemangwanani. Mune zana remabhiri, zvakatsvinda nerabha bhendi pazvidimbu makumi maviri (pakarepo zvakanyatsoverengwa nemudiwa wangu wetafura yechiJudha, asi ini ndichadzoka kune izvozvo gare gare). Ini handina zano kana zviri izvo, asi chero bedzi ndikawana chikafu chakawanda cheseta ichi uye akawanda bhodhoro redoro (inonaka kwazvo Laos doro) handinetseki.

Iye zvino ndakagara pane imwe terrace yehotera, parwizi rweMekong. Yakanyarara kwazvo, yakafara kiromita imwe chete, rwizi rune zvikepe zvakamanikana, zvinomonereka, mabhanga akati sandara uye miti yakawanda yakasvibira, isina dzimba, isina waya dzemagetsi, zvisikwa zvayo, miti yakanaka, minda yemupunga, ruzha rwekiriketi neshiri.

Ndinotora rwendo rwemanheru mumusha weChampasak pamwe chete nemusikana akanaka anobva kuJerusarema (mumwecheteyo anogona kuverenga mari zvakanaka). Uyezve kudya kwemanheru naye kusvika pakati pehusiku, nyaya dzakawanda dzehupenyu hwechisimba muIsrael, netarisiro inoyemurika inosimudzira yekupona. Dzimwe nguva vainyudzwa nekiriketi. Hupenyu hausi kupenga zvakadaro.

Chipo chikuru

Ndadzoka kuThailand, nematekisi maviri uye nerwendo rwechikepe paMekong. Ingoratidza pasipoti yangu wozadza tikiti kuti ndigare mumwe mwedzi. Ini zvino ndinofamba ndakananga kutemberi yepasirese, kunze kweUbon Ratchathani. Uye chokwadi zvakakwana, mutyairi wetekisi anonyatsoziva pachiri. Thais anofara kwazvo kana muchena achiratidza kufarira Buddha uye kunyanya kana vari mamongi vanopenga.

Iwe une marudzi maviri emamongi, imwe muguta kana musha, pakati penharaunda uye imwe musango. Vanogara vari voga mukamba musango uye vanongosangana kashoma pazuva kuti vadye uye vanyengetere pamwe chete mutemberi. Zuva rose vanenge vari vega kufungisisa.

Vagari vakapoteredza vanopa zvokudya zvavanouya nazvo mazuva ose. Havaoni izvi semutero zvachose, pane zvinopesana, zvinovapa mukana wekuita zvakanaka uye nokudaro kuwana kukodzera. Pashure pezvose, chipo chikuru kupfuura risiti. Ndichine mabhatani akawanda ekuvhura ndisati ndasvika, asi ndiri kushanda pazviri.

Ndinoraira mutyairi wetekisi kuti amire kwemaawa mashoma ofamba achidzika nenzira inonanga kutemberi. Chivako chakajairwa, chemazuva ano rectangular chivakwa chisina mafiritsi akawanda. Kune rumwe rutivi chikuva chine chifananidzo chikuru chaBuddha uye zvimwe zviduku zvakaipoteredza uye zvimwe zvidhori zvemamongi ane mukurumbira akapararira pano neapo, mamwe maruva nemimwe shongedzo uye chikuva chomumongi abbot, anotungamirira munamato.

Ini zvino ndinoona mamongi echichena achifamba asina shangu mudondo kekutanga uye nechekure mamwe matumba pamatanda. Ndichinyemwerera, ndinobata mumongi wekutanga anoyambuka nzira yangu uye ndinokumbira musangano. Anokumbira ruregerero kune mumwe ane ruzivo rwakanyanya, asi ndinoda kuzvininipisa kwake uye - zvakakosha - anotaura Chirungu pasina chirevo. Ndinomukumbira zvakanaka kuti nditaure naye uye pasina nguva takagara pabhenji pasi pemuti pamumvuri. Akananga panzvimbo yelotus (achiri kundinetsa zvakanyanya) aine fudzi rimwe chete, akaputirwa nenguo yeorenji senge toga yeRoma, uye pasi petsoka dzake dzakapfava zvinoshamisa. Iye muAmerica, angangoita makumi matatu neshanu, wepakati, akajairika WASP, ane chiso chakavhurika uye chakapfava zvisingaite. Very yakachena akaveurwa kumeso uye musoro, asi neimwe nzira bvudzi.

Kashoma kusangana nemunhu anoratidza kudzikama kwakanyanya uye kwakadzikama munguva dzekutanga. Zvamazvirokwazvo kwete asiri enyika, muAmericawo zvake, anonzwa kudiwa kwekuva monk. Ini ndinogona kumubvunza chero chinhu uye ndakanyatso zorora - zvingave sei neimwe nzira? - anopindura.

Tisati tazviziva, akagara pachigaro chake chekutaura uye anyandurwa zvinofadza nemibvunzo yangu yakati dzikamei, tinotaura kwemaawa mashoma. Uye izvo kune murume ajaira kufungisisa kwemakore ari mudumba! Anoedza kupindura mubvunzo wangu unonyanya kudzvanya zvakadzama: nei Buddha asiri mwari?

Mukati me‘kurova kukuru’ kwokupedzisira (maererano naye vazhinji vakanga vautangira) pakanga pane munhu mumwe bedzi chaiye aiva namasimba makuru zvikuru pakuvamba: Vishnu, uyo aifunga kuti akanga ari mwari mukurusa nemhaka yokuti akanga ari wokutanga. Vanhu vakawanda pavakauya pasi pano, vose vakafunga zvakafanana. Buddha akakumbira Vishnu (kana kuti mukupesana) kuti azvidzivise uye akatsanangurira Vishnu kuti kunyange zvazvo iye ari simba guru zvikuru, kunewo masimba akaenzana pamberi pake (pamberi pe‘guru guru’ rokupedzisira). Uye kunyange yakakwirira. Achinzwisisa izvozvo, Vishnu akapa rukudzo kuna Buddha kupfurikidza nezivo yake yakakwirira, yakakwirira kupfuura Vishnu amene. Zvisinei, Buddha pachake haaedzedzi kuva simba guru. Zvino ndiani wepamusoro-soro?

Bhudha paakavhenekerwa, aikwanisa kutarira shure pakuzvarwa kwake kwese (ndinofunga mazana mashanu, asi muAmerica uyu akataura nezvezvimwe zvakawanda). Buddha aigona kutarisa mberi uye mberi kumashure, asi pakanga pasina magumo kune akaberekwa, sedenderedzwa apo pakati pari pese pese uye magumo hapana. Pakupedzisira Buddha akarega. Kuda kuremara kwaari.

Saka handizivi kuti ndiani ari pamusoro-soro, asi handisi kurega kuda kwangu izvozvi. Nyaya dzipi. Zvakadaro, ndakava nemasikati makuru ane hunhu hunopenya. Nguva nenguva ndaifunga kuti ndaizogara naye zvakanaka muDe Witte.

Nokumurova ndakamuoneka, maoko angu akapeta uye, achikotama zvishoma, ndichirova-rova pahuma yangu neminwe yangu (ruremekedzo rukuru rwaunopa kuna Buddha, mumongi namambo). Mumongi haati mhoroi, asi anonyemwerera uye anonditenda nehurukuro. Tinochinjana kero uye ndinovimbisa kumunyorera tsamba pandinodzokera kuHolland.

Ndinogamuchira mamwe mabhukwana sechipo uye zvishoma nezvishoma ndinofamba ndichidzokera kutekisi yangu ichakangomirira (iyo inoburitsa runyararo rwakafanana, asi ndozorara). Ndinotarisa kumashure ndichiri kunzwa kudziya kwehurukuro iyi. Yakanaka chose, nyangwe dai ndaisazochiva hupenyu uhu. Ndinopinda mutekisi, ndakatarisa kumashure ndichitenda zvikuru. Mumongi uyu akandipa chipo chikuru kwazvo nhasi.

Zvichaenderera mberi….