Talat Noi, the hidden gem of Bangkok

The Rong Kuak Shrin (Editorial Credit: Sumeth anu / Shutterstock.com)

The ancient Chinese community of Talat Noi, located on the east bank of the Chao Phrayariver in Samphanthawong district, dates back to the early Rattanakosin period. Although this community has been overshadowed for years by the more famous Yaowarat, tourists are now increasingly looking for less obvious places in Bangkok.

This started when an academic group visited the community five years ago and saw its potential. “We have many cultural and historical sites that need to be preserved and promoted for tourists,” says Rungchan Chalermviriya, a local guide.

Rungchan, who was born in the community herself, wanted to see her neighborhood grow. She joined forces with other local residents to create the community group “People Who Love Talat Noi” with the aim of promoting community tourism. Later they received support from the tourism department of Bangkok and the Thai Tourism Authority to promote Talat Noi as a hidden gem in the city. They organized tours to attract visitors and saw their visitor numbers grow year after year.

The Holy Rosary Church (Editorial Credit: Sumethanu / Shutterstock.com)

“Today [Talat Noi] is known as an authentic one Chinese community. Tourists enjoy discovering our ancient houses and shrines. They also like our food and our way of life,” says Rungchan. The best place to explore Talat Noi is Soi Wanit 2, a small alley next to the River City shopping mall. Here you will find the Kulab Witthaya School, which shares the same entrance as the Holy Rosary Church. Built by Portuguese traders in 1786, this church has a towering spire topped with a crucifix.

Siam Commercial Bank in Talat Noi

Near the church is the first bank of Siam. Here is the branch of the Siam Commercial Bank in Talat Noi, popular with tourists for its original Beaux-arts and neoclassical architecture, which has survived since it was first built in 1908. It is well worth a visit even if you are not a customer .

“Before the first Thai banks, many Chinese businessmen offered money exchange services along Wanit Road. The area was the first port in Bangkok where Chinese immigrants landed. They worked and lived near the port and sent money back to China,” says Rungchan. That is why Talat Noi, a hub of logistics and transport, was a logical location for the first bank.

Near the bank is a small alley called Trok Sanchao Rong Kueak. Here stands an ancient two-story house called Ban Lae Lieo, which is sometimes used for holding art exhibitions. Further down the alley is the fresh food market of Talat Noi. Although it is a morning market, you can still find food in the afternoon. One of the most famous shops is Bachang Jae Wacharee, a shop that has been making bachang (steamed sticky rice with pork, Chinese sweet sausage, peanuts, dry shrimp and salted yolk) for more than three decades.

(Editorial credit: Panint Jhonlerkieat / Shutterstock.com)

If you decide to skip the market, further along in Trok Sanchao Rong Kueak you will find an ancient Hakka shrine called Sanchao Hon Wong. The shrine houses the statue of Emperor Gaozu, the founder and first emperor of the Han Dynasty, the Second Imperial Dynasty of China (206 BC-220 AD).

Talat Noi is also the hometown of Xiang Kong, a company that sells second-hand car parts. A little further on you will find Ban Rim Nam, a coffee shop with an art gallery. Here you can sit outside and enjoy the view of the Chao Phraya River.

A short walk from Ban Rim Nam is the 230-year-old So Heng Tai Mansion. The So family can trace its roots back to Phra Aphai Wanit (Jat), who was governor of Sichuan province in China before settling in Siam.

The So Heng Tai mansion, curiously enough, is now a diving school and coffee house. There, Duangtawan serves its special sakhu sai mu, steamed tapioca balls filled with a mix of ground pork, stir-fried sliced ​​sweet pickled radish, peanuts, coconut sugar, shallots and coriander root. To see the ancient Chinese architecture behind the red wooden gate, every visitor must order at least one drink.

From the So Heng Tai house, a narrow path leads to Sanchao Chow Sue Kong, a Hokkien shrine built in 1804. Along the way, you will come across an abandoned vintage Fiat 500 parked not far from a large tree decorated with colorful ribbons. Also, don't forget to admire the street art on the walk to the shrine.

So Heng Tai Mansion

“Sanchao Chow Sue Kong is one of the oldest shrines in Talat Noi,” says Wimol Luangaroon, a local guide. The shrine houses a large statue of Doctor Chow Sue Kong. According to tradition, he tested herbal remedies on himself before treating others. However, some herbs were poisonous and caused his skin to turn black.

“We pray for good health in the sanctuary,” adds Wimol. Every year, the Yuen Xiao ceremony will take place, during which the locals offer turtle-shaped Chinese buns to the deity. The buns are decorated with four Chinese symbols that symbolize health and prosperity.

“Our community has many historical sites that we would like to showcase. We can also organize workshops for visitors to learn more about our way of life. Although Talat Noi is small, it is full of activities and sights that you cannot complete in one day,” says Wimol.

The statue of Emperor Gaozu at Hon Wong Shrine is also known as Sanchao Rong Kueak, named after the popular horseshoe manufacturing that used to take place in this area. This year, to help fight toxic smog, the shrine has introduced a policy of not selling or lighting incense sticks during Chinese New Year.

Wimol Luangaroon, recognizable by her blue T-shirt, leads a workshop in which visitors learn how to make small prayer cushions. Wimol is a third generation prayer pillow maker. Her family has been making prayer pillows for over a century. These handmade products are decorated with a pink peony motif.

In Talat Noi you will also find street art on the walls of several shophouses.

Somsri, on the left, is one of the Chumchon Khon Rak Talat Noi volunteers. The group organizes several workshops, including a workshop on making traditional Chinese bachang. They teach contestants tricks such as cooking glutinous rice in water boiled with butterfly pea flowers, which turns the glutinous rice purple instead of its usual white color.

(Editorial credit: singh srilom / Shutterstock.com)

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Talat Noi is accessible via Soi Wanit 2, a short walk from Si Phraya Pier. For workshops or tours, please contact Chumchon Khon Rak Talat Noi group representatives, Rungchan Chalermviriya at 094-998-8250 and Wimol Luangaroon at 085-909-7147.

Source: Bangkok Post