In and around Chiang Rai
'Back again', I wrote on this blog about eight weeks ago. Long enough ago to feel completely at home again and to enjoy my stay and of course being together with my partner to the fullest. We have known each other for 9 years now and we hope to add a few more years to that...
The Thai daily rhythm always takes some getting used to after being away for half a year. Out of bed at the first light of day, and as a result the lights go out a bit earlier in the evening (both literally and figuratively) than in the familiar polder country. Nothing wrong with that, because: 'the early bird catches the worm', right? Incidentally, Northern Thailand has a vegetarian version of that English saying, which basically means that the early riser finds the fresh young leaves of a vegetable and the late riser has to make do with the stems……..
So getting up early has its advantages, you may conclude from these sayings (and similar ones in many other languages). Certainly for me, as an avid cyclist who regularly goes out for a ride of 4-5 hours: if you leave early, the temperature is still bearable, the UV radiation is not yet so strong, and you are back home before the highest daytime temperature is reached. Like a few days ago: shortly after sunrise, at 18-19 degrees, click your feet into the pedals, avoid the dogs sleeping in the street and ride out of the village and then have to think along the way where the ride will go that day.
The light is still soft at that time, the mist rises from the fields and the wooded mountain slopes, there is still relatively little traffic – it is a joy to behold. Time and again I realize that I am a lucky bird to be able to do this, to be able to experience this, and that fills me with a level of contentment and happiness that I find difficult to describe. That day I finally cycled to Phan, a town on Highway 1 south of Chiang Rai. Coffee after 47 km at one of my regular stops and back via a different, longer route. Well before noon back home, with a good 100 km on the counter. What a life!
Cycling in and around Chiang Rai, you see changes after being away for half a year. New restaurants and coffee shops pop up, and at least the same number of previously existing ones have closed their doors – if they had any at all. A coming and going: I have the impression that many of these businesses are started on a whim, without any insight into whether there is any money to be made with the offer at that location. No 'business plan', no insight into the viability of the enterprise; 'just try', seems to be the motto…..
Another change I observed from the saddle of my bike is of a completely different nature: the work on the railway line that will connect Chiang Rai to Bangkok is really starting to get going. On the east and south-east sides of the city, the route is starting to take shape and work is being done on the foundations of the line and the structures that are needed where main roads are crossed.
The station will be located a bit outside the city, in Wiang Chai, about eight kilometers from the city center. Completion is scheduled for 2028.
More than 20% of the 323 km long line with 26 stations and 4 tunnels – which branches off the existing Bangkok – Chiang Mai line at Den Chai (in Phrae province) and continues after Chiang Rai to Chiang Khong on the border with Laos – is now complete. 'Probably the most romantic route in Thailand', the head of the State Railway of Thailand called this line in an interview last year, referring to the beautiful landscapes through which the train will take you.
Beautiful nature in abundance, in Chiang Rai
So just be patient, and then you can take the train to Chiang Rai! I suspect it will do this most northern province of the country good in terms of tourism.
Chiang Rai has of course a lot to offer, although the 'Chiang Rai Beach' located a good 800 km from the sea on the river - the Mae Kok - is of course no alternative for the pure beach lover. But if you are looking for beautiful landscapes, friendly residents, a relaxed atmosphere (and also a pleasant price level) you will not go wrong with a trip to this beautiful province!
Of course, life here consists of more than (mostly solo) cycling, however fun and 'nice' that may be. Moreover, my range of action with 'self-drive' is of course not exactly infinite. One of the trips we make together with some regularity during my stay, by car, is to 'The View'. That is the very appropriate name of a restaurant and coffee shop in the mountains on the road between Chiang Saen and Chiang Khong, a dozen kilometers before the latter place. 100 km one way, with in cyclists' eyes terribly steep slopes - but beautiful views - in the last 15 km.
The reward is a beautiful spot high above the Mekong, a magnificent view and, to top it all off, delicious food and extremely friendly service. The trip is more than worth it!
Of course, you can't avoid formalities when staying in Thailand for a longer period. My Non-O visa is valid until the end of December, so we're going to Immigration next week - my love is my indispensable helper - to extend the permitted period of stay by one year. That generally doesn't cause any problems here in Chiang Rai, provided of course that you have your papers in order. I use the Visa Support Letter from the Embassy and so far it has been accepted without any problems, without any further questions. Incidentally, I received that support letter on a Wednesday, while I had only sent the application here that Monday afternoon. Literally by return mail, so to speak!
As a positive person, I don't worry much about the extension procedure, but when I leave the immigration office I am always relieved that I can go ahead for another year. Nothing is 100% certain here; a new requirement can suddenly appear out of the blue, but I don't assume that. I will go through all the documentation again later, double-check whether I have made all the necessary photocopies and then I will be ready.
If you don't hear from me on this blog anymore, I've probably been deported!
Recent article regarding the new train connection:
https://www.bangkokpost.com/thailand/general/2911467/fast-progress-in-chiang-rai-rail-project
About this blogger
- Cornelis, born in 1945, in total 42 years in government service, at the age of 58 initially hesitantly accepted an offer to retire early, never regretted it and has therefore been enjoying his freedom for over 20 years. Great cycling enthusiast, both in the Netherlands and in Thailand; puts at least 10.000 km on the clock every year and has previously written a series of articles about this for this blog. Lives part of the year near the city of Chiang Rai with his sweetheart, whom he also met there and with whom he has now been in a relationship for almost 9 years.
Read the latest articles here
Living in ThailandDecember 4 2024In and around Chiang Rai
Living in ThailandOctober 24, 2024Back home…
ActivitiesDecember 8 2023Chiang Rai and cycling…..(10)
Reader SubmissionJanuary 12 2023Just Chiang Rai
The extension I mentioned in the last part of my text has now arrived. Walked into the office at 08.45 on Monday morning and left again 20 minutes later! Incidentally, they asked me 2 questions that I had not been asked before: how many brothers and sisters I had, and what my level of education was. Whether these questions were part of the procedure, or whether they were asked out of personal interest/curiosity, was not clear to me. I suspect the latter...
That's more of a personal interest/curiosity.
Someone once asked me if I had a brother or sister and they said... too bad you don't have a brother 😉
Didn't you ask how many sisters the immigration officer had?
No, I see that she is already starting to see interest... and I already have enough with mine. 😉
Haha, yes, I should have done that!
Cornelis, congratulations on your Visa extension. You can have it back again.
Question: Why is Chiang Rai train station located 8km away from the city center, in Wiang Chai?
Yes, why not in the city, that station, William: I suspect that has to do with the cost, because then quite a bit would have to be demolished to make way for the track and the station.
I'm adding a link to Google Maps, so you can see the location of the planned station, east of the city:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/gLHE6ScdVH8fkYzi7?g_st=com.google.maps.preview.copy
Did you also have to hand in everything in duplicate like in Lamphun at the Imi, even with two passport photos?
The copy machines must keep running.
Janneman.
No, Jan, fortunately not. You do wonder what they do with all those piles of paper…….
Nice story, Cornelis; the previous one too. Authentic above all; the AI-enveloped stories and photos with an often funny cynicism or those -sometimes misplaced- meant as 'playful', are interesting at times, but 'real life' stories are the most beautiful and from a columnist without an oversized ego (if the shoe fits..)
I'm even a little jealous because I once told my Thai wife, after having stayed in Chiang Rai for a while, that I would like to live there; however, she is of the opinion that the disadvantages: flooding (very recently I saw the Blue Temple a meter under water...), storms, snakes, the famous 'burning season' etc. are a bad basis for a long stay. I don't really know how to convince her to try it for a year. We don't want to buy something until we know for sure where it should be. We like it in a much more southern region, but I miss the views and the somewhat rougher nature.
So now that you're back, more of this please!, if only as a token of my argument for traveling North.
Thanks Johan! I'll be here until the end of March 2025, plenty of opportunity to contribute to the blog!
Of your wife's arguments, in my - of course somewhat biased - eyes, only the 'burning season' remains, but unfortunately that applies to a large part of Thailand. It also varies greatly in intensity from year to year, but it cannot be denied that it is a negative aspect. Storms and snakes - I wonder if they occur here to a greater extent than elsewhere in the country. The floods this year were truly extreme - no one here, not even the oldest here - can remember that happening before. Of course that is no guarantee for the future, but all kinds of measures are now being taken to prevent a possible future recurrence, or to limit the consequences.
Hello Cornelius,
Nice to read a story from you again.
I myself am going to immigration next week (Dec 11) to extend my stay by 1 year.
I wonder if they will ask new questions here too.
They are generally very friendly and helpful here.
As for the burning season.. they can do that here in the flat rice area too. The precipitation is called “black snow”
But I have not experienced any flooding in the last 7 years.
We do see snakes regularly, recently one even crept inside our home... we were eventually able to show it the door.
Anyway, I hope you can continue cycling there and telling stories for many years to come.
I won't be coming to Europe for a while, unless they deport me too.
greetings from Kamphaeng Phet
Ferdinand
Thank you for your beautiful story.!
Cornelis thanks for your message from Thailand. You are a sport. Can't help but read that after reading your message from and about Thailand. I can't copy you on cycling. I have other disciplines. I do everything on the motorbike. You are having a great time and you have clearly found your resistance/gear where you are. I am not going to take anything away from that. It is your resistance and approach to the life we live. You see it in your own way and in your own style. Who can copy you? Cornelis the man who is not cross-eyed, or maybe a little bit. ?
Rudolf
Now in muang Taak, heeng mai piak.