Back home…

Space and comfort, on board.

So, already more than 3 weeks back in Chiang Rai, my regular destination and home base in Thailand for about 9 years. The past 6 months spent at that other base, in the Netherlands. A bit longer than planned; I was originally supposed to leave for the Low Countries at the end of April this year, but the extremely hot weather early on – regularly 38 to 40 degrees – made me decide to leave a month earlier. Quite a change, mind you: upon arrival in the Netherlands it was 8 degrees and it remained cold, windy and especially wet weather for about five weeks. Well, you can't have everything...

After a month of suffering from the cold (and longing for my partner…..) I started making the first preparations for the return journey: looking for a ticket for the end of September. It had to be business class, or at least Premium Economy. I allow myself – born in 1945 – some comfort these days. I quickly found a business class ticket with Turkish Airlines for at least 1400 euros less than what KLM, EVA Air and Emirates wanted to be transferred for the trip on the desired dates. Now I had already travelled to South Africa with that company, and that had been a pleasant experience. So I didn't hesitate for long and booked at the beginning of May. By the way, Turkish Airlines is a member of the Star Alliance, just like EVA Air.
You fly via the new airport of Istanbul (flights are 5 times a day from Schiphol), from where they fly twice a day to Bangkok. Actually 3 times, but that extra option means that you fly via Hong Kong and are therefore on the road a bit longer.

Fast-forward to September: I also had to arrange a new Non-immigrant O visa. Because I had left Thailand earlier than planned, I had not yet been able to extend my stay and had to start over. The digital application procedure turned out to be a piece of cake (the last time I had to go to the Embassy twice for this), after some problems with my bank, which on the bank statement to be uploaded does not use my full first name in the address, as stated in my passport, as in the official name of the account. Strangely enough, something that the bank – ING – apparently cannot easily change. This initially led to non-acceptance and questions from the Embassy, ​​but in the end it could be resolved. No, not thanks to the bank, which, more than 2 months and a complaints procedure later, still has not changed this, but thanks to the Thai Embassy.

And then, finally: time to pack the suitcases! I could take 40 kg, so I didn't have to be frugal with weight. I'm quite an enthusiastic cyclist (with more than 11.000 km on the clock this year) - I've written quite a bit about that on this blog - so the cycling clothes and shoes plus a new bright yellow - all for visibility - helmet went in first. New bicycle tires too: the ones on the bike waiting for me in Thailand were finished after 9500 km, and the type I wanted is not for sale there. Because they are so-called folding tires, they are quite light and flexible, and therefore easy to stuff into the suitcase.

The journey to Bangkok – both routes with an Airbus A330-300 – went smoothly. The immense new airport of Istanbul is well signposted, but the walking distances are considerable. The Turkish Airlines business lounge is a real oasis, where you can not only enjoy a huge range of food and drinks in peace and comfort, but also shower and sleep. The food was also good in the air; if I had eaten everything that was offered, I would have rolled out of the plane at my destination feeling very round. Nice: on the route Istanbul – Bangkok, after departure the 'chef', in chef's clothing, a huge chef's hat on his head, goes through the menu with each individual passenger and takes their order. Not that he then goes behind the stove, mind you; he probably won't have to go much further than switching on the ovens/microwaves…
In short: absolutely no regrets about choosing this company!

When we got off in Bangkok we found ourselves at the new satellite terminal, from where you have to take a train to the main building. Fortunately, you arrive there at a short distance from the immigration and baggage hall, so no long trek anymore. Quickly through the fast track at Immigration, after 10 minutes the suitcases and through customs outside where my partner and her daughter were waiting for me. Straight into the shuttle bus of the Amaranth hotel - we would not fly to Chiang Rai until the next day - and into the swimming pool there. Tired? Well, that was not so bad; sitting comfortably and being able to sleep lying down makes a world of difference in terms of fatigue compared to Economy.

The next afternoon on to Chiang Rai, with Vietjetair. Driving home from the airport, the feeling of being completely 'home' quickly subsided; the next 6 months my life would take place here. The weather gods also welcomed me, by generously opening the heavens for a heavy rain shower that lasted 20 hours shortly after arrival; the next morning we found that we could not leave the village, because the only access road was under water. Fortunately, the water subsided during the afternoon and we were able to visit Immigration shortly before closing time for the Tm30 report. On previous returns this was not necessary because I entered with a re-entry permit, but now, because I had a new visa, it was.

Beautiful nature in Chiang Rai…

Back in Chiang Rai, then, and happy to be back. Still, a bit of a mixed feeling: it will not have escaped the attention of readers that this province suffered greatly in September from flooding caused by extreme rainfall. During the entire rainy season, which also started a bit earlier than usual, much more rain fell than in other years. Regular days of torrential rain instead of the usual showers in the afternoon and evening caused the rivers to rise far above their normal level. A number of bridges were destroyed by the force of nature, and there were severe floods in various places in the province. For example, in Mae Sai, the border river between that place and Tacilek in Myanmar – usually a stream that you can wade through with no more than wet calves in the dry season – several times covered the Sai Lom Joy market on the Thai side with 2 meters of water. Now it has subsided again and the clean-up and restoration efforts are in full swing.

…but nature can also be cruel and destructive, as here along the Mae Kok.

In the meantime, it has also dried up, the sun has started to shine, the water levels have dropped many meters – the Mae Kok, which originates in Myanmar, is now 5 meters lower than the highest level reached – and it seems that this province has the worst behind it. For many of those affected, that is far from the case; if the little you had is taken away by the water, you are literally left empty-handed. According to official figures, a total of more than 55.000 households in the province have been affected to a greater or lesser extent by the events.
Even the oldest people here who have lived here all their lives cannot remember a flood of this magnitude.

The bridge over the Mae Kok at Ruammit has been partly destroyed.

All kinds of private initiatives were launched to distribute drinking water, food and clothing.
My hat off, for example, to Toony and Phaet of the well-known Homestay Chiang Rai (where I once got to know Chiang Rai) who, supported by donations from guests, friends and acquaintances, brought many carloads of essential items to affected villages in the area. Especially the mattresses they handed out made for many happy faces. Direct and targeted help, without strings attached to which something always gets stuck.
Respect also for my own partner, who for 6 weeks (and still…) gets up every morning at 3 o’clock to prepare, together with a dozen other women, without any form of remuneration, large numbers – sometimes as many as 1400 – of meals for the victims and aid workers, an initiative of a nearby temple. That temple receives donations from all directions that make this possible; the provincial authorities take care of the distribution.

These types of wooden/bamboo structures didn't stand a chance against the water.

The improvement in the weather at the end of the first week of my stay allowed me to finally get on my bike again to explore the wide area around our village (10 km outside the city centre of Chiang Rai). I followed the river upstream on both sides of the Mae Kok and saw the damage in the villages located directly along the river. Crossing the river just past the Karen village of Ruammit, known for its elephant camp, was not possible because a piece of the concrete bridge construction had been carried away by the water. Crossing the wooden suspension bridge, a few kilometres further upstream, is also not an option: all that remains are the pylons on both banks. The rest is most likely floating in the Mekong at the moment, somewhere in Vietnam, on its way to the South China Sea…

Everywhere, there is a lot of work being done to clean up and restore; the army has also been deployed for this. This morning, for example, I was able to cycle over the bridge to Mae Yao, where an abutment had been completely washed away earlier. Hopefully, they will not forget to also look to the future and take measures to reduce the impact of possible future heavy rainfall, but, as they say in English, 'I don't hold my breath'…

I have always found the nature here in the north overwhelmingly beautiful. Even now, after all the disasters that have taken place, the landscapes are impressively green and richly varied. A sharp contrast between that natural beauty and richness, and the power and – sometimes – cruelty of that same nature.
I'm adding some pictures to underline that. Pictures are sometimes more powerful than words, aren't they?

About this blogger

Cornelis

Cornelis, born in 1945, in total 42 years in government service, at the age of 58 initially hesitantly accepted an offer to retire early, never regretted it and has therefore been enjoying his freedom for over 20 years. Great cycling enthusiast, both in the Netherlands and in Thailand; puts at least 10.000 km on the clock every year and has previously written a series of articles about this for this blog. Lives part of the year near the city of Chiang Rai with his sweetheart, whom he also met there and with whom he has now been in a relationship for almost 9 years.

Read the latest articles here

Older posts from this blogger

• Living in ThailandDecember 4 2024In and around Chiang Rai
• Living in ThailandOctober 24, 2024Back home…
• ActivitiesDecember 8 2023Chiang Rai and cycling…..(10)
• Reader SubmissionJanuary 12 2023Just Chiang Rai