Surin
Surin, a province in the heart of the vast Isaan region in northeastern Thailand, is a land of lush landscapes, age-old traditions and a culture that still pulses strongly through its villages and rice fields.
Far removed from the hustle and bustle of major tourist hotspots such as Bangkok and Chiang Mai, Surin offers a rare opportunity to discover authentic Thailand, where life is lived in harmony with nature and history is palpable in the air you breathe. Here, where elephants roam the land like timeless companions, travellers are transported into a world where every sunrise and gust of wind tells the story of an ancient civilisation.
Elephants and the Surin Elephant Round-up Festival
Surin is no ordinary province; it is a land where elephants are still treated with reverence, where the gentle majesty of these animals is woven into the soul of the people. It is not without reason that Surin is known as the “province of elephants”. The age-old bond that the local people have with these majestic animals is still alive, especially among the Kuy community, who have been renowned for their unparalleled elephant care skills for generations. Every November, hundreds of these giants gather for the Surin Elephant Round-up Festival – a spectacular spectacle where tradition and power come together in elephant races, historical parades and demonstrations of ancient hunting techniques. The festival offers visitors the unique opportunity to see these animals in all their glory, and to experience how deeply the role of the elephant is rooted in Thai culture and history.
Culture and traditions
The spirit of Surin is not only carried by the elephants, but also by the echoes of Khmer culture that have permeated the country through the centuries. This influence is visible in the enchanting ancient temples and mystical ruins that are scattered throughout the province. Take for example the Prasat Sikhoraphum, a temple complex dating back to the 12th century, where the stones are adorned with intricate carvings that tell stories of Hindu gods and mythological creatures. These ancient Khmer temples, with their timeless towers pointing towards the sky, are silent witnesses to a rich history that unfolds in every arch and ornament.
Surin is also a land of crafts, where the art of silk weaving is passed down from generation to generation. In the villages of this province, Thailand’s finest silk is handwoven into fabrics of unparalleled beauty, with patterns that reflect cultural heritage. The intricate designs and soft sheen of the silk catch the light like no other material, and each fabric tells a story of tradition and patience. For visitors, it is a unique experience to visit the villages and watch the weavers practice their craft, and to take home a piece of this living tradition.
Nature and landscape
The landscape of Surin is like a painting come to life; a place where the horizon is dominated by vast rice fields stretching into the distance, interspersed with palm trees and small villages bathed in the soft light of the morning sun. During the rainy season, the fields are transformed into a sea of emerald green, a vibrant color that gives the land an unmistakable glow. To the east, where the province borders Cambodia, the landscape changes to rolling hills and vast forests, where the rustling of the leaves creates a symphony of tranquility.
One of Surin’s hidden gems is Huai Saneng Lake, a place where the silence is broken by the gentle lapping of the water against the shore. Here, people gather to fish, take a boat trip, or simply enjoy the serenity that envelops this tranquil lake. Small restaurants line the water’s edge, where the smell of freshly cooked Thai dishes mingles with the fresh breeze, and where you can daydream as the sun sinks into the lake.
Local dishes and culinary specialities
Surin cuisine is a feast for the senses, a meeting of fire and finesse, where the flavours of Isaan cuisine meet influences from Khmer culture. Here you can taste the hearty and spicy dishes that are so characteristic of this region: I'm there, a spicy papaya salad with the perfect balance of sour and sweet, and larb, a spicy minced meat dish often served with a handful of sticky rice. Eating here is not just a way to satisfy hunger, but also an ode to the land and water from which the ingredients come – wild mushrooms from the forests, herbs growing in the fields, and fish from local lakes still caught using traditional techniques.
Silk weaving mill (athurstock / Shutterstock.com)
Traditional rural life
Visiting Surin is like travelling back in time, to a place where the modern world has slowed its hasty pace and where life is still governed by the seasons. The villages are small and simple, with wooden houses lining narrow roads, and the air is filled with the sound of children playing and the smell of freshly steamed rice. Here, in the heart of Thailand, life revolves around agriculture, and you will see people working the rice fields, tending their buffalo and pausing in the shade of a palm tree. For those who want a taste of real rural life, the villages offer the chance to participate in daily life – an experience imbued with warmth and hospitality.
Prasat Sikhoraphum
Sights and activities
- Prasat Sikhoraphum: This majestic temple complex reflects the glory of the ancient Khmer culture. With its five towers rising proudly, it is a place where history is made of stone and where every engraving tells a story from the past.
- Ban Ta Klang Elephant Village: In this village on the banks of the Mun River, the bond between man and elephant is still alive. Here you can meet the mahouts, the elephant trainers, and learn about their age-old knowledge and care for these mighty animals.
- Huai Saneng Lake: A place of tranquility and reflection, where nature is a blessing for the soul and time seems to stand still as you enjoy the peace that this body of water offers.
- Silk weaving villages: Here you will discover the art of weaving in its purest form, a tradition passed down with care and dedication from generation to generation.
Surin is not a place you visit alone – it is a place you feel, a destination you embrace, where you truly experience the soul of Thailand. It is a province where the stories of the past whisper through the air, where tradition and nature go hand in hand, and where every footstep on this ancient ground brings you closer to the heart of the country.
About this blogger
- The Expat (66) has been living in Pattaya for 17 years and enjoys every day in the land of milk and honey! Previously employed in road and hydraulic engineering, but fled the capricious weather in the Netherlands. Lives here with his Thai girlfriend and two dogs just outside Pattaya, a 3-minute walk from the beach. Hobbies: enjoying life, going out, sports and philosophizing with friends about football, Formula 1 and politics.
Read the latest articles here
ColumnDecember 10 2024Column – Longneck suffering and short-sighted tourists
ColumnDecember 8 2024Column – “No money, no honey”: the absurd boundary between love and business
ColumnDecember 6 2024Column – Hypocrisy under the tropical sun is the new normal
ColumnDecember 4 2024Column – Koh Phi Phi gone crazy: A tourist drama on wheels
My, my, it is beautiful there. You must be lucky enough to experience it that way. As a tourist, but certainly also as a permanent resident who can spend every day in this earthly paradise, with its many elephants, the more than average delicious food and the exceptionally beautiful silk. In November I will be in Isaan and after reading this authentic story I will certainly also breathe the air there to experience a similar euphoric experience, prick up my ears for the many voices from the past in all their tones. Thanks for this wonderful travel report!
In this very romanticized story (but tastes differ…..) I notice 2 geographical inaccuracies. First, Surin is definitely not in “the heart of Isan”, but in the extreme south of it, and second, east of Surin lies the province of Sisaket. The border with Cambodia is the southern border of the province. Finally: I have lived permanently on the border of the provinces of Buriram and Surin for over 20 years. Of course, my wife and I often cross the province. The times that I have seen an elephant outside an elephant camp we visited or the festival in November are very close to zero. And the “culture” and “traditional rural life” discussed above? Surin’s countryside is mainly populated by small and poor rice farmers, who can barely keep their heads above water and have absolutely no time, money or desire for any kind of culture.
That waterfall in the picture, what's the name and where is it?
Pfff, how people can whine here on Thailandblog. First the expat writes something negative about Thailand, then the whole community comes down on him. Then he writes a few positive stories about Thailand, it's not good either...
And Henkwag if you have been living in Surin for 20 years isn't it time for you to write a realistic story about your province? Or is it more fun to criticize others?
Rudolf, Henkwag's reaction seems to me a lot more realistic than the very exaggerated romanticized story of the Expat. He wears 10 rose-colored glasses in this story. However, I suspect that he did this deliberately to get some extra reactions, which he seems to have succeeded in doing. If you read his story objectively, then you can hardly deny that this gives a very sweet and exaggerated image of Surin. I have absolutely no problem with that, but to dismiss Henkwag's comment as whiny criticism is, in my opinion, whining on your part. Apart from all this, the Expat has, in my personal opinion, not written anything negative about Thailand recently, but has actually said that not everything is rosy in Thailand either. I don't think there's anything wrong with that. In my opinion, Henkwag's comment is just a normal reaction to the story. Nothing more and nothing less.
If HenkWag knows it all so well and has such a realistic image of Surin because he has lived there for so long, why doesn't he write anything himself? You don't answer that. It's so easy to just comment from your lazy chair. At least the Expat makes an effort to write something, but if I were him I would stop immediately. And if the other writers do the same, there will be nothing more to read on Thailandblog and nothing more to whine about.
Peeking around to see if there's anything in there that you might trip over, yuck!
Hello Rudolf, I think you don't quite understand something. There are film critics, book critics, sports critics, art critics, etc. etc. In your view, those critics would all have made a film, written a book, played sports, made art, etc. I have absolutely no desire to write a story about Surin, I simply lack the talent and ambition for that. However, I am more than willing to answer questions from people who want to know more about Surin, of course in a realistic way. The fact that I have lived there for 20 years shows that there are enough positive reasons to live there. I have done nothing more than point out some inaccuracies, and yes, I was very annoyed by the
my overly romantic picture painted by the Expat.