The grandeur of Sukhothai

Sukhothai's splendor is reflected in its world-famous historical parks, but the city also offers impressive cultural attractions and promotes sustainable tourism.

While most visitors head straight for the Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai Historical Parks, added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1999, this northern city itself also offers a variety of local delights for those who want to slowly enjoy life, local wisdom and the splendor of nature.

Despite its success in the tourist industry, this ancient city has managed to preserve its wonderful cultural heritage, producing high-quality porcelain, elaborate silverware and hand-woven textiles using age-old techniques passed down from generation to generation. It was therefore named a UNESCO Creative City of Crafts and Folk Art in 2019 and a UNESCO Learning City last year.

On the way from central Sukhothai to Thung Saliam district, the lush 3.800 rai Ban Tha Tonthong community forest is presented as the green lung of the province. It has the capacity to absorb 128.828 tons of carbon dioxide. With a focus on sustainable living, thousands of saliam (Siamese neem tree) and silver trumpet trees will be planted this rainy season to purify the air and combat global warming as part of the Low Emission Support Scheme.

Siamese neem tree

This is a joint effort of the Designated Areas for Sustainable Tourism Administration, PTT Exploration and Production, Bangkok for Agriculture and Agricultural Cooperatives, Provincial Office of Natural Resource and Environment Sukhothai and Thai Chana Suek Tambon Administrative Organization to create a tree bank to promote sustainable tourism and to increase gross domestic product to 4,4 trillion baht by 2025 under the bio-circular green economy model.

The community relies on this bountiful forest as a source of food, and locals visit throughout the year to find termite mushrooms, ant eggs, and phak wan. The top selling items during the peak season, which lasts from June to July, seem to be cycad fruits for making silky smooth flour for local sweets, and saliam, a key ingredient in recipes that can help treat skin conditions, fever, diarrhea and strengthening the heart.

phak wan

Not far from the jungle, Thailand's Chana Suek village serves as a gateway to the northern region. The Ban Mae Thulao Homestay offers a tailor-made program of eco-friendly leisure activities for day trips or overnight stays, where visitors can experience the Lanna way of life and traditions. This initiative is the result of the work of talented craftsman Srila Chomphoowan and her neighbours, who have transformed their homes into welcoming lodges for environmentally conscious guests.

“In 2011 we started making rice whiskey to increase our income after the rice harvest, but due to tax complications we had to close down our business. Later, we established an Otop weaving group and applied our expertise to create clothing, accessories and home furnishings from ethnic cotton and hemp fabric,” said Mae Srila.

“We have participated in an Otop Nawatwithi community tourism training program and have spent years learning about hospitality standards. In 2020, we decided to turn our homes into a lodge and offer a two-day, one-night homestay program as well as handicraft workshops to share the story of our community.”

The group consists of 20 members and has four homes that can accommodate up to 30 guests, with plans to add four more homes this year. Due to scheduling constraints, we opted for a half-day program, starting with a typical lunch in a shady garden and enjoying the view of the fruit and vegetable plantations that surround the ancient canal.

The menu featured favorites such as kaeng khae gai (chicken and mixed vegetable curry), nam prik num (northern green chili dip) and laab moo (spicy minced pork salad), all made with local, seasonal ingredients.

kaeng khae gai

To finish off our lunch, Mae Srila and her sister taught us to make Thung Saliam's famous dish, laab pla nam oot (spicy minced fish salad served with full flavored fish soup). In another corner, a group of skilled artisans showed us how to make colorful patchwork, elephant-like key chains and chic earrings and handbags from local materials such as palm leaves.

“Our grandparents settled in Thung Saliam after moving from Lamphun, Lampang and Chiang Mai. The area is surrounded by a vast plain above the river, making it ideal for agriculture. This area was originally rich in fish and there are four weirs used for agriculture. Visitors can get acquainted with local irrigation systems and learn about ancient wisdom,” she explains.

Visitors can enjoy a one-day trip for 399 baht, which includes lunch, a hands-on workshop, and a canal cruise. The two-day, one-night homestay program costs 600 baht for couple travelers and 950 baht for single travelers. This program includes accommodation, breakfast, dinner, a hands-on workshop and a bike ride to see how local farmers grow rice from now until August, before the harvest season begins in October.

Luang Por Sila

Wat Thung Saliam is just a 10-minute drive from the homestay, in the heart of the district. It houses a highly revered statue of Luang Por Sila. This statue was stolen in 1977 and discovered in 1994 in the private collection of an American collector. Finally, in 1996, Dhanin Chearavanont, the chairman of the Charoen Pokphand Group, paid 5,2 million baht to bring it back to the city.

The Lopburi-style Buddha statue, with the hood of a mythical serpent, is made of sandstone and is currently in a mondop. Worshipers gather here to pray for protection, success and good health.

Visitors can also visit a nearby sermon hall and admire the striking murals. Combining modern art with traditional craftsmanship, these murals tell of the life of Lord Buddha, modern life and the royal initiatives of the late Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej.

Wat Pipat Mongkol

After a short drive we arrived at Wat Pipat Mongkol, where the ancient golden Sukhothai style statue of Luang Por Thongkham can be found. This monastic complex was built in 1983 on an area of ​​196 rai, where the ruins of an ancient temple from the Sukhothai Kingdom used to stand. With a budget of more than 200 million baht, the complex features stunning Lanna-style architectural designs, including multiple levels of roofs, ornate stucco work, naga-like staircases, and sculptures of mythical creatures. The relics of the Sri Lankan Buddha are kept in a gilded pagoda in the center of the square, surrounded by reproductions of the 12 Phra That, representing the 12 constellations.

Before leaving this historic city, we made a final stop at Rongna Baan Rai, located in Sawankhalok district. It is the creative arts community of veteran writer Sanya Panichayawei, who left busy city life behind and transformed a 2011 rai paddy field into an artistic hub in 60.

“I moved to Sukhothai and had the opportunity to research the wisdom and cultural heritage of Sawankhalok. I discovered that this city has many wonderful things, such as the signature fish-inspired motif on Sangkhalok stoneware. I decided to offer a variety of DIY educational programs so that tourists and students can learn about this city through art,” said Sanya.

“I am currently expanding my network of artists from Sukhothai to Uttaradit, Kamphaeng Phet, Phitsanulok, Phichit and Tak to make this area an important hub for art and literature in the Lower North. Art is not just about painting, it is the practice of life. People can use art as a medium to express different points of view in Sawankhalok.”

A group of local artists offers more than 30 specially tailored workshops daily, where visitors can learn how to make mulberry paper, masks, lanterns, notebooks or painted pottery. Prices range from 50 to 200 baht, including materials.

To promote green tourism in the area, part of the space is being converted into a playground for the “Art In Farm” event. This event takes place on the last weekend of every month and showcases a wide variety of eye-catching artwork, handicrafts and organic vegetables from local farms.

On the other hand, the Infinity Coffee Roasters and Cafe offer coffee and chocolate drinks made with Arabica beans from Mae Hong Son and cocoa beans from nearby farms.

Travel Information: Ban Mae Thulao Homestay is located in Thung Saliam District, Sukhothai. For more information, please call 091-839-1904 or visit facebook.com/tungsaliamhomestay.

Rongna Baan Rai is located in Sawankhalok District, Sukhothai. It is open daily from 9.00am to 15.00pm. For more information, please call 091-383-9556 or visit facebook.com/rongnabaanrai.

Source: Bangkok Post