Sala Kaew Ku
A visit to Nongkhai, the border town on the Thai side of the Mekong, is not complete without a visit to Sala Kaew Ku.
Words fail to describe the sculpture garden, set up by the monk Launpou Bounleua, who died in 1996. A man who was so fundamentally Buddhist that he was often mistaken for a communist and was allowed to spend time in various cells for that.
He also had some strange sides. For example, he found sexual contact out of the question and this monk felt sorry for married men and women. Lounpou traveled up and down to Laos in the mid-twentieth century Thailand and even spent some time as a construction worker in Bangkok, a city he detested. He preferred to meditate in caves, seeking the truth and the meaning of life. His parents did not like this course of events and looked for a bride for him. Naturally, the potential suitor was rejected.
Also, not everyone in Nongkhai was in a good mood once he started building Sala Kaew Ku. Incidentally, he had no idea how to make such images; much of the inspiration came from Indian magazines. Some wealthy Indians provided him with funds. After his death in 1996, the garden relies on entrance fees: 20 THB for Thai and farang.
(Carlos Amarillo / Shutterstock.com)
During a tour of the sculpture garden, the visitor falls from one surprise to another. How can a person come up with this and then also make it. The statues of Buddhas, nagas (many-headed serpents) and other figures are sometimes 15 meters high. Remarkable is the 'circle of life', which starts with a baby and ends with a coffin. Unfortunately, all inscriptions are only in Thai, otherwise I could have explained what the sculpture group means, in which a man threatens to hit a woman, while another woman watches. Is it the wife who gets a beating, or possibly the companion (mia noi). My Thai supervisor doesn't know how to answer that either (or maybe she doesn't want to on purpose...).
The main building contains a precious and precious collection of statues of Buddha and Ganesh, the four-headed elephant god. Launpou sleeps his eternal sleep on the top floor. The story went for years that his remains refused to decay, but that is no longer alluded to. His final resting place is surrounded by Christmas tree lights and that's how it should be in this day and age.
About this blogger
- Almost 20 years ago, journalist Hans Bos moved to Bangkok. Almost from the beginning, he was involved in the birth of Thailandblog. As a journalist, he worked for Limburg newspapers and for the travel trade journals of what was once called Elsevier. Hans (76) has lived in Hua Hin for 14 years, with his wife Raysiya and daughter Lizzy. He was secretary and vice-chairman of the Dutch association in Hua Hin and Cha Am for about nine years.
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Hans,
A beautiful and mysterious story. Sometimes not knowing about the compassion and enthusiasm of artists, the power of imagination, is just as beautiful. Not everything can be named in this way, it also has its charm.
Beautiful sculpture garden, sometimes a bit extreme images. I thought I understood that the monk came from Laos and that the sculpture garden located near Vientiane also comes from his hand.
I was there in 2008 and have a photo on Piscasa.
https://picasaweb.google.com/109048257072638509517/ChangNoiAtABudhaPark
Chang Noi
The monk was born on June 7, 1932 in Nongkhai Province, the eighth of nine children. Indeed, the Bousanie sculpture garden in Laos is also by him. With and without his parents, Launpou has lived and traveled extensively in Laos.
Nong Khai is a sleepy town that mainly serves as a springboard to Laos (Vientiane). Even if you come from relatively quiet Chiang Mai, you will notice the overpowering tranquility here. The shopkeepers and traders in the stalls here are not in the habit of shouting at you and promoting their wares; a relief.
Dear Jessica,
This is not entirely correct.
Nongkhai is now the beginning where you or other people can set up things like a shop, restaurant,
cafe, etc.
The people here work on the "edge", few tourists (reduced very much) what an enterprising
city 'can be for many and keep prices down.
Here is the old Thailand, no busy nightlife but very cozy.
Enough hotels with rooms of 480 Bath and higher (good quality).
For me, and I think for expats, it is “perfect” to live in and yet not 'too' busy.
The prices are many times lower than in other tourist areas.
Nongkhai is the springboard for the Isan. Just take a look and experience it.
Your experience I think' is thin or not well explained.
Nongkhai certainly does not sleep and is on the rise.
The market is a good starting point.
Yours faithfully,
Erwin
Yes great there I roamed around all day recommended for everyone.
And then you haven't told me that this Monk was a huge fan of Donna Summer and used to blast out of the loudspeakers throughout the park! Good !
Cool piece, I was here last month too. Well worth a visit if you are staying in Nong Khai for a while. There is also a similar garden on the other side of the Mehkong in Laos. (unfortunately not visited). Created by the artist before he was deported from Laos and built this garden in Thailand.
If anyone wants to see nice pictures of it I can email them.
Cheers,
Michiel
Hello Michael,
I would like to receive these photos [email protected]
Many thanks and best regards,
Bennie
I have also been here with my wife. Normally I do not like statues and Buddhas, but I think this is great, so I had a nice walk around
I've seen both, very different.
The one in Laos is more impressive, I thought, because some statues are so big that you can go inside. Both were indeed built by him.
If you visit it in Vientiane, you can also walk into the brewery of Lao Beer for a pleasant tour (is located nearby), with probably the best beer in the area.
I've been there twice and enjoyed it both times. It is very worthwhile, an absolute must, and known only to a few. An oasis of peace and wonder.!
Nongkhai is a nice city anyway, there is plenty to see and do, I have been there a few times, I will go again in March. The sculpture park is great to see once. Hotel tips:
Budsabong wonderfully quiet and great people, especially the owner.
French.
We traveled around Isaan by car in the spring and also spent the night in Nongkhai.
Ended up in this sculpture garden by chance.
Went from one surprise to another. In 1 word Fantastic
GJ
I've been et twice and enjoyed it twice. In amazement, wonder and admiration. An absolute must if you are in the area. Recommended!
Indeed, not to be missed if you are in the area.
Just like Buddha Park (Xieng Khuan) just outside Vientiane in Laos. Previously built by the same monk.
In Nong Khai you should pay attention to the bushes along the road on the main roads.
A lot of the bushes are sculpted into elephants! Beautiful region.
I had the honor to visit the park in laos, it was very beautiful and impressive. Who knows, the other one will come too
Sorry, but as far as I know Ganesh has 4 arms. not 4 cups.
That's funny, were there last week
My wife finds this garden, garden with scary statues
You have to watch out there that you don't slip, some places are slippery there
The monks also have a greenhouse with a wide variety of cacti, from small to large. I bought 2 large bulb cacti for THB 300 each. Recommended.